When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
i'm being ocd about it because I did end up having a small exhaust leak last time we did the manifold. Maybe just a tiny amount around the edges? I realize it won't do much but if it doesn't harm I'd like to, unless it's absolutely NOT recommended.
What is the OEM order for torquing down the EM?
Just snug it up from the middle out, then torque it from the middle out.
I've literally never had one leak with a new gasket... Not sure how you managed that.
For the first time, my TOB won't disconnect, I tried for 2 nights. I got a tip as last resort to unbolt the pressure plate so I did. now my PP is stuck in my transmission. I know I overheated and killed my clutch trying to beat a M3P lol but did not know that could damage the monoloc. I'm glad there's an alternative
First time for me off to the engine builder deep cleaning time.
man, our conv died (Myles) when I said I could buy an evo9 block from them if it was available, so we can start asap, while I ship the head. I emailed them 2 more times after that. nada
i have this local guy, i've known him for a while but he doesnt have a dyno so he's my last resort. I'd rather do the install myself (prefered by this engine builder) and make sure everything is bolted up right. i cant trust any generic techs anymore, too many screw ups, missing/random bolts, too much silicon (see transfer case lol)
evo tcase finally opened up, and yep, my ats was failing. carbon pads delaminated. spider gearset had a few cracked teeth on the side gear. ring and pinion was worn out, but I was expecting that with the age of the t-case.
are there any performance benefits I can expect from refreshing the t-case with a severely worn down r&p? differential aside.
ats rear diff still good, will be selling that one to anyone interested.
What's the real purpose of the fuel pressure regulator solenoid? As I understand, it vents the FPR to atmosphere instead of the intake vacuum on cold start, which increases fuel pressure.
What I don't understand is why the ECU does this instead of simply increasing injector duty cycle during cold starts.
Does it help reduce time to full fuel pressure in the rail? Or is it a trick to produce more consistent cold starts in extreme weather?
I'm going wire-by-wire through the Haltech Nexus S3 plug and play adapter and noticed the FPR solenoid was unconnected. I'm not worried about this one, but it got me wondering about the purpose of the FPR solenoid process.
imma dremel every nook until my parts get here
