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Sup w/them 2026 Spring Projects?

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Old Nov 21, 2024 | 10:16 AM
  #6511  
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mine's out right now. btw are you still using the stockish wastegate actuator?
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Old Nov 21, 2024 | 10:18 AM
  #6512  
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Originally Posted by ViciousLSD
you can DIY that IMO and possibly tackle more around that area (paint, leaks, clean, general maintenance). if you can remove the radiator, disconnect downpipe, o2 sensor plug, turbo coolant.& oil lines then turbo/manifold just comes out in one piece. I would probably try to break loose some bolts to the 02 housing before hand. I would avoid any exotic hardware there, does your 71hta have that oil pressure regulator thing already? do you have the antisurge version and the matching intake hose? that might require some trimming. the band clamp for the orig turbo seems ok,not sure if it has a lifespan. I cant remember if i replaced it but i know I bought an extra one. might be a good time to upgrade to silicone coolant lines
yea turbo has to come apart anyway. just stock oil and eveyrthing else except for the 18psi wastegate. they said it didn't need anything else, just a direct swap.

TRE is probably going to do it, but only because i've known Jon for literally 15 years.
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Old Nov 21, 2024 | 10:30 AM
  #6513  
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my first 71hta didnt last long without the oil filter line
https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/04...f?v=1605217692
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Old Nov 21, 2024 | 10:40 AM
  #6514  
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i wish you hadn't said anything LOL
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Old Nov 21, 2024 | 11:46 AM
  #6515  
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well maybe they improved the CHRA. a while ago the oil line was highly recommended. i remember reading something about it too
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Old Nov 21, 2024 | 12:21 PM
  #6516  
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So, I compared the plates between the one I got in the kit and one from my pump and they are slightly different as well. Inner openings and holes are identical, which is good, but the one from the pump has a smaller OID. Here is the picture with two of them on the top of each other, with OEM one at the top:

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Old Nov 21, 2024 | 12:43 PM
  #6517  
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Originally Posted by ViciousLSD
well maybe they improved the CHRA. a while ago the oil line was highly recommended. i remember reading something about it too
yea i specifically asked if i needed those things and they said no; just recommended the 18psi wategate actuator
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Old Nov 21, 2024 | 01:09 PM
  #6518  
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The 71hta is an OEM CHRA. Doesn't need an oil feed line.
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Old Nov 21, 2024 | 02:11 PM
  #6519  
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Right.

I read this a long time back
Notes from FP:
"We no longer recommend using oil supply from the cylinder head for the FP Journal Bearing turbochargers for the Mitsubishi Evolution 9. Oil pressure measurements made on various engines indicate that in many cases the amount of available oil pressure at the cylinder head feed location is less than adequate. The factory head feed location prioritizes the turbo oil supply lowest, after all other oil supply duties within the engine. These turbochargers require a minimum of 45psi of oil pressure under full engine load, and sourcing oil supply from the cylinder head simply does not meet this requirement.

The filter housing source is much higher pressure than what is available at the cylinder head. Relocating the oil supply to the oil filter housing allows the turbocharger to be fed a sufficient supply of oil pressure and volume.

Some people may insist that 20 or 30psi of oil pressure is sufficient to supply a typical floating journal bearing turbo, it is our specific experience that this is not true in the case of an automotive racing turbocharger used in a performance application where excessive EGT, high shaft speed and maximum thrust load are the norm, not the exception."
https://stmtuned.com/products/fp-evo...22337461059669
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Old Nov 22, 2024 | 08:10 AM
  #6520  
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ahh ok. plus we're all running the infinite evo pan now so oil supply should always be decent right?
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Old Nov 22, 2024 | 08:39 AM
  #6521  
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What kind of sealant are you guys using between the gaskets? I usually just use permatex grey stuff but I want something that holds up especially for the heat.
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Old Nov 22, 2024 | 09:30 AM
  #6522  
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I think grey is just for assembling cases. Some shops use orange for the exhaust manifold. Not sure if thats actually required
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Old Nov 22, 2024 | 10:14 AM
  #6523  
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High temp is red but only rated for like 650*, so are black and grey, so kinda pointless; red can look like sht. Copper is ~700*

Not sure if artec has their own torque sequence but the factory cast manifold does have a designated bolt pattern.
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Old Nov 22, 2024 | 10:36 AM
  #6524  
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You do not need silicone on the exhaust manifold. It's a multie layer metal gasket with a fire ring. They don't leak when properly torqued.
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Old Nov 22, 2024 | 11:05 AM
  #6525  
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i'm being ocd about it because I did end up having a small exhaust leak last time we did the manifold. Maybe just a tiny amount around the edges? I realize it won't do much but if it doesn't harm I'd like to, unless it's absolutely NOT recommended.

What is the OEM order for torquing down the EM?

Last edited by kyoo; Nov 22, 2024 at 12:51 PM.
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