For dirt/moto helmets I always used laundry soap and water in the sink.

The important part is to dry it out quickly and thoroughly. My current favorite method of drying things out is a cheap food dehydrator from Amazon Warehouse Deals with a cardboard box on top to fit whatever I need. Cut some holes in the box to let some of the air out.

 

does anyone have any pic of how to setup the long block on a pallet? is it standing on the oil pan?

 

So, I finally removed my AYC pump this weekend! Few broken bolts and one snapped hard line later, it is in my basement. Of the three hard lines that connect on the side, first two came of without much fight, but the third one (all the way to the left side), didn't want to budge. So, I will have to buy a new hard line with hopes it will be installable without taking half the car out.

Pump looks pretty bad to me. Lot of corrosion on the valves too. Will try to clean it up and maybe paint it, if I could fix the rest.

Any comments on how this looks like so far? It does look a bit different from the video about how to fix those, but what do I know

 

just buy a used unit. and maybe work on that on the side. never too late to spray some corrosion inhibitors since you live in the snowbelt

 

have seen far worse...

the biggest issue are the valves and if they cracked... spray some penetrating oil on the area where the valves enter the body and try to pull them out... if they do not crack, you are ok.

the 3 bolts that hold the motor are probably going to get stuck and break. Using a small impact driver might help. If they break, no issue... just get them off, pull the motor and undo the two inside bolts. then you will need to cut the sides of the pump body, where the bolts go trough to get them loose and pull the body apart.... Looks ugly but is no issue... let me know how you get on and I will help..

 

I will try to take the valves out first just to make sure they will come off without any issues. Corrosion on them looks just like a surface one, so I don't expect issues there.

One thing that I didn't do is to test the pump while in the car to know that motor is actually working. How likely is that something else is bad aside from the corrosion on that plate inside the pump? Could I just try to hook up the motor to run on its own? You have something in your video there, but I am not sure if I could be able to build that test unit...

 

the motors on the evo X like to burn out.. and sometimes they will spin freely and then not work with some resistance later on. You can connect it to direct 12 V and see if it works.. dont need any special tools for that. Also, replacement motors are available... I just installed one we bought from canada..

as for valves.. they tend to corrode on the 5mm space between the large diameter part of the valve body and first O ring that sits inside the pump body... that is where they get stuck..

Connect the motor, see if it spins... take valves out, and disassemble further...

 

So, I decided to try to open my pump and was greatly surprised there. Valves came off relatively easy and look decent from outside. Then, for fun sake, I inserted an allen wrench in one of the long bolts and tried to budge it. Not that it did, but came all out. Same for the second and the third one as well! Then, two inside bolts came off as well (I had to take a picture to see them all together undamaged, which I didn't expect to see). Finally the oil pump side came off and there is no corrosion there whatsoever!!

So, this pump is different than those from @kikiturbo video that he shared and any other image of the pump that I have seen so far. This is a third pump that was installed on my car (all under warranty) and I was told that they did change something in how those pumps are built. This one has two extra wires inside as well which I didn't see before either. Internals also look different from the videos and images as well. The repair kit that I bought doesn't seem to fit this one at all.

So, where to go from here?

I should have definitely tested the pump while it was on the car to see what could be wrong. I will try to get the error code from the ECU hoping it would tell me something more there. From what I can see here, it doesn't look like I have a typical corroded inner part of the pump itself. So, what else could be wrong here? One of those valves might have stopped working perhaps. The motor might have given up too.

Anyway, if you have some idea what to do here next, it would be appreciated!

Here are some more images (including all 5 undamaged bolts)

 

all repair kits are the same... so it should work..

pump looks great, so you might want to test the motor..

please note, that turning the plate wrong way, will make the pump inoperable.. i.e. it will not produce pressure...

I would clean everything, put it back together, put valves back in and try to run the motor. If it runs, then attach a big piece of hose to the big input pipe, fill it with atf and try running the pump.. see if it will ingest fluid and produce pressure.. you should hear the pump slow down..

 

so i'm about to order the artec stock replacement exhaust manifold, and trying ot make sure I order all the necessary parts and hardware to make sure this thing gets bolted in good:

shop is recommending:
- grimmspeed turbo to manifold gasket
- stage 8 locking nuts
- arp manifold stud kit
- arp turbo to manifold and turbo to o2 housing studs
- oem gasket

^ those parts on their own add up to nearly 700 bucks - my question is, is that necessary over just oem bolts for all those bits? The car gets driven very hard and I did have an exhaust leak one time

 

I would not buy those except the OEM manifold gasket. if youre using the heatshield I would recommend converting the bolt holes for the heatshield from m6 to m8

 

what else do I need? I'm not sure re: heatshield but I just ordered the exhaust manifold (I paid $1085, the shop wanted $1245), and trying to figure out what else I'll need.

The parts (even the exhaust manifold) are WAY cheaper online, and the shop is suddenly telling me they won't install "customer-supplied parts" - something they never did throughout my entire experience dealing with them. i get that they're not a retailer but their prices were 20-50% higher on every single item so...

I'm looking through map and left a message asking what parts I'd need for an exhaust manifold installation:

- OEM exhaust manifold gasket (https://www.maperformance.com/produc...ant=5329980739) (shop wanted $45, $34 here)
- grimspeed exhaust manifold gasket (https://www.maperformance.com/produc...41137159831622) (shop wanted $36.50, $19 here)
- MAP's turbo-to-manifold stud/nut kit (https://www.maperformance.com/produc...ant=5331012931) (shop wanted $250 for an ARP set, $15 here)
- ARP SS exhaust manifold stud and nut kit (https://www.maperformance.com/produc...ant=5343644291) (shop wanted $210, $111 here)

any other bolts I need for the connecting parts? the turbo is coming out too obviously, 71hta core going in. Anything I should add for bolts or gaskets there? I'm willing to pay, I just see no reason to OVERpay.

 

I would use JDCustomsUSA titanium hardware instead of arp. Never worry about corrosion again.

 

I was considering it for the minor weight savings but I don't think I've had any corrosion issues. I went back and forth a little and ultimately decided steel would still be a little more secure.

 

you can DIY that IMO and possibly tackle more around that area (paint, leaks, clean, general maintenance). if you can remove the radiator, disconnect downpipe, o2 sensor plug, turbo coolant.& oil lines then turbo/manifold just comes out in one piece. I would probably try to break loose some bolts to the 02 housing before hand. I would avoid any exotic hardware there, does your 71hta have that oil pressure regulator thing already? do you have the antisurge version and the matching intake hose? that might require some trimming. the band clamp for the orig turbo seems ok,not sure if it has a lifespan. I cant remember if i replaced it but i know I bought an extra one. might be a good time to upgrade to silicone coolant lines