See this is the problem is "engineers". LIke I said even rocket engineers/scientists get it wrong. these titles mean nothing, its not a badge either. Even "doctor" dont mean much except they know how to dial down the terminologies for the lay man. you'd probably get a 2nd opinion or do your own research if your doctor throws a medical thesis on you.

I like you, not too snotty. Not sure what youre talking about tho. That example is the most popular "Rod End in Bending" in the FSAE world. you're telling me you're better than the judges who will "fail" anyone who uses rod ends in this manner? can you all get on the same page if youre going to tag team. please

Did you look at "the math"? Dallas spent time determining what force a section of the arm is getting. Maybe he's focused on the Momentum/STM units. I wasn't so the "break" is in different points, which is a big miscommunication especially taking about very simple machines called "levers". My car will not see a 2" compression or else something else will break, but sure let's consider his scenario. Like I said, double it I dont care, I just want to know what amount of force will bend an m16 stainless steel threaded rod, then I would like to know what breaks the bigger threaded rod on the GSP unit. It took me a bit to process his concern tho, i wasnt sure what type of failure is concerning.

will it happen in reality? I have a degree in Engineering, In Electronics tho but we have taken courses in all types of engineering. Including Engineering Ethics btw. I'm not an "engineer" because I didnt take the board exam. I.T. is where the easy money is so I just used my degree to open doors. A lot of people wont agree, I thought engineering is full of shiet when I was in college. I mean why do we need all that math to find out if it burns up/crack/bend/fits? In reality, Joe Shmoe will just need a higher gage wire/better concrete/stronger thicker bolt/bigger box. Even the dang FS people suggest a bigger REIB is FINE dammit lol. it's not rocket science

I am not trolling, but if thats what it looks like, fine. I am ESL and I am elated I figured out "threads in bending". I have not encountered this phrase before and took me a while to even google this mystery (to me). "Threads on a lever" jeesus

 

Per Aurora bearing,

• Q: What is the axial static load capacity of Aurora Bearing Company’s rod ends?
• A: For Aurora two-piece rod ends, the maximum axial static load capacity is recommended to be 15% of the ultimate radial static load capacity. For three-piece rod ends, the maximum axial static load capacity is recommended to be 10% of the ultimate radial static load capacity. However, on three-piece units, factors such as race material, body material, and dimensions may affect the axial static load capacity.

http://www.aurorabearing.com/technical-faqs.html

 

lol. F it, *I will buy it too*

 

what's the size of the small hose that attaches to the stock bov? i've got a jmfab uicp & intake incoming.

 

Austin have you got a website or something with all your goodies listed on them?

 

Soon! My business partners and I just recently talked to a website builder about it so hoping to have something in the next month or so. Earlier today I got our FB page rolling: https://www.facebook.com/WunderladenRacing

I'm going to be dividing my attention between Honda and Evo parts but all the stuff I already offer along with a few things I haven't teased yet will be on the site when it launches

 

rockauto also jacked up the price of the rear left, randomly. going over to my buddy's tonight to give one last shot at pulling the rear sensors out. if not, i think i'm gonna go with the $30 "economy" sensors and roll the dice i guess. if one ends up bad, how will i know which one it is? will there be a CEL? or do I need to do it by process of elimination?

 

It tells you which sensor is bad. Ive run the cheap ones for years been fine. Just because something is more expensive doesnt make it better than the cheaper option every time. most of that stuff comes from the same place and is rebranded.

Good example is HKS spark plugs are just NGK plugs with HKS stamped on them and twice the price lol.


also one to look at especially if your lowering the car with the new uprights is to re route the looms inside the front guards above the wheel. When you lower the car you can hit these looms over bumps and wear through the cable for the sensor, this is quite a common failure ive seen on evos which have been lowered and then tracked.

 

Liked your page, Would love to see a list of the nick nacks you have for sale so i can make a shopping list haha

 

appreciate the info. CEL will tell me?

i'll take a look at how thoes are routed. on the fronts, dallas included a very nice holder for the abs lines. in the rears they are kind of out of the way.

 

Appreciate the support! The existing products are:

• Rear camber and toe locks (can be bought separately or together)
• Evo 8 reverse cam sensor housing (will have a kit for both housings on the 9 head soon)
• Ethanol sensor mounts that bolt onto the firewall, no modifications required
• Coil on plug ignition mount plates
• "Dual cooler" brackets for center grille mounted oil and power steering coolers
• Firewall block off plates for people who delete HVAC and the heater core

Upcoming stuff:

• Billet rear transmission brackets (works for both 5 and 6 speed but only LHD)
• Bladed rear sway bar (very adjustable, uses bearings so minimal deflection and friction, multiple bar thicknesses)
• Rear camber arms (still debating which route I want to go, right now am considering an arm that uses stackable shims to adjust length)
• Quick release door hinges (allows the door to be removed with no tools, to make loading and unloading easier, these will likely only be done in occasional group buys)
• 5 speed shifter cables, since OE are NLA
• Rear AP brake caliper brackets, uses OEM disc to retain parking brake and keep consumables easy.

I have a few other product ideas that I've started on too but haven't really talked about yet. They'll all come in time though. It's just weird times right now, material shortages don't seem to have an end in sight so now our machine shop is buying aluminum by the literal ton so they don't have to push back ETAs further than they already have. Once we get over the hump of having protos done things should go a bit more smoothly I'm hoping.


In the front they are routed above the wheel well liner but underneath the metal frame of the wheel well so if the bump stop on the strut doesn't engage soon enough, the tire will wear through the liner and rub through the wire harness that's there.

 

here's a pic. I am working on my ACD relocation so there's an extra loom there

 

ahhh okok i see. yea i'm nowhere near that then.

 

Youd be surprised how much travel you get if your loaded through a corner and hit a bump or something. Its not something you can test by just jacking the wheel up

 

for sure, i just mean i'm nowhere near as low as some people, though as i look at my pictures of the car under braking i bet it gets close. prob cuz i have soft springs up front as well. i do still have my wheel liners, that can always be a check for rubbing to know if it's close. i discovered this while measuring for the uprights, the falken rt660's in 255/35-18 are actually absurdly short for what they should be - should be around 25", closer to 24.3-24.5", that probably helps in this scenario.