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As cool as it would be I doubt it'll happen. The average Evo owner is a far cry from the average A80 Supra owner, the 2J Dart block is $4500, I don't think there's that many Evo guys that would pony up for something like that especially when 64 blocks are still like $2-300 at pull yards.
Well said. The 4G63 isn't as iconic as the 2JZ or even K-series motors for motor swaps, so the market is much smaller.
Not to mention the fact that new 4G63 blocks are still available for $3K shipped with the click of a button: https://stmtuned.com/products/oem-mi...33006351056981 Presumably less if you have a non-STM hookup for OEM parts.
I'm kind of shocked the billet blocks are down to $7K now. For some reason I thought they were over $10K.
Originally Posted by Ayoustin
A factory repop head for the 8 and 9 would be awesome, especially since it would (ideally) have less core shift than the 20 year old heads we have now. The SME head is neat but really ties your hands on only being able to run their valvetrain components and god knows how painful it would be to get replacement parts from Europe if something fails.
We just need to convince Dallas J to design and CNC a billet cylinder head. How hard can it be? Just grab the biggest calipers you have lying around and start modeling, load a giant chunk of aluminum into the CNC, and press the Go button, right?
Well said. The 4G63 isn't as iconic as the 2JZ or even K-series motors for motor swaps, so the market is much smaller.
Not to mention the fact that new 4G63 blocks are still available for $3K shipped with the click of a button: https://stmtuned.com/products/oem-mi...33006351056981 Presumably less if you have a non-STM hookup for OEM parts.
I'm kind of shocked the billet blocks are down to $7K now. For some reason I thought they were over $10K.
We just need to convince Dallas J to design and CNC a billet cylinder head. How hard can it be? Just grab the biggest calipers you have lying around and start modeling, load a giant chunk of aluminum into the CNC, and press the Go button, right?
wow 20kgs (44lbs) difference between billet and stock. that's a big drop in weight right up front. would it run as smoothly and reliably as OEM though?
How would I know if the valve is OK or not? Is there an easy way to know this?
well you have to take the pump out and disassemble it... if the valve breaks off when you pull it out you will know... (if it is just cracked, there is no helping it so dont worry)... chances are it is just the pump.... take a look at the video in my sig and you can try doing it yourself.. I think kits are available in canada from evolution hydraulics.. no need for me to send it overseas..
as for testing the pump on the car.... turn the ignition on with throttle to the floor and listen to the pump.. if it starts and keeps going at constant speed, then the pump is damaged and needs overhaul...
well you have to take the pump out and disassemble it... if the valve breaks off when you pull it out you will know... (if it is just cracked, there is no helping it so dont worry)... chances are it is just the pump.... take a look at the video in my sig and you can try doing it yourself.. I think kits are available in canada from evolution hydraulics.. no need for me to send it overseas..
as for testing the pump on the car.... turn the ignition on with throttle to the floor and listen to the pump.. if it starts and keeps going at constant speed, then the pump is damaged and needs overhaul...
First start up with the EFR7670 setup just installed.
New cross-flow radiator setup, semi-tucked at the top.
Expansion tank with 2x bleeds from radiator and top of thermostat housing.
Added a bunch of sensors:
*water pump inlet pressure to see if there is any water pump cavitation (I'm looking to make an upgraded water pump).
*Individual EGT and Lambda (Lambda for dyno only)
*eIWG actuator from Honda Type-R
*TPMS system
*EMAP x2
*Turbine speed sensor for the EFR
I could never keep water temps in check in my Evo at 5-550whp on track. AC delete and custom cross flow radiator moved forward some was the plan, until I sold it for the Supra. Interested to see how that works out for you.
I could never keep water temps in check in my Evo at 5-550whp on track. AC delete and custom cross flow radiator moved forward some was the plan, until I sold it for the Supra. Interested to see how that works out for you.
Did you even put ducting in front of the rad? With the AC condenser removed there are huge gaps all around it for air to bypass the rad.
Did you even put ducting in front of the rad? With the AC condenser removed there are huge gaps all around it for air to bypass the rad.
I still had AC. I had everything pretty well ducted. Thick weather strip foam between condenser and radiator, and made som ducting out of rubber/vinyl sheet like most of the OEM's do.
I could never keep water temps in check in my Evo at 5-550whp on track. AC delete and custom cross flow radiator moved forward some was the plan, until I sold it for the Supra. Interested to see how that works out for you.
if I was running a conventional oil cooler (oil/air) then it wouldn't have been a problem with the OE replacement PWR radiator I had.
But i've got all my oil temp heat going into my coolant now, so the system needed to be upgraded.
Very excited to see how it goes!
eIWG is working, pretty cool system!
I can choose target boost by any parameter: RPM, Pedal position, Rotary dial etc.
You can still buy OEM 4G blocks if you want cast and if your a baller you can just get a billet block for a relatively affordable price. Theres no need to get aftermarket cast blocks made especially when u compare the cost of a billet one wouldnt be much more.
Theres also plenty of billet transfer cases available on the market from various suppliers.
Trans i dont see the point when you can just buy a sequential gearbox with its own casing e.g hollinger/ xshift etc. Be similar money than a billet case for stock trans but 10x stronger.
Billet rear diff would be one possibly but again you can get the cases from the junkyard out of any awd mitsubishi e.g legnum or VR4. ( i presume USA probably didnt get these vehicles but here theres dozens in the local help yourself scrap yards, I have 2)
Im pretty sure i saw a company in europe are developing pneumatic valved camless heads like the koenigsegg has also and were prototyping one for 4g63.
Hyundai bought the design off mitsubishi for the 4g63 and people are experimenting with those motors also and their backwards compatibility.
Consider a full bling CNC ported head is going to run roughly $3k plus ship, plus a core if yours is junk. And that assumes your valve seats are in good enough shape to use.
