When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Testing a new water pump design.
I've got 2x water pressure sensors now, inlet pressure (steel pipe under intake manifold) and outlet pressure (under thermostat).
Will get data on the circuit in the next couple of weeks, checking for cavitation etc.
And I can compare temps in the long run as I have the lower radiator hose temp sensor. If there is an increase of efficiency then it will show up there.
Anybody got a method in keeping the grease inside the swaybar bushings? wonder if o-rings and zipties would work, it seems my rear bushings it at maximum stiction after 3 events
Anybody got a method in keeping the grease inside the swaybar bushings? wonder if o-rings and zipties would work, it seems my rear bushings it at maximum stiction after 3 events
I use washers between the bracket and chassis to prevent over clamping the bushing. Basically add in 1 washer on one bolt per bracket and check if bar is free enough to only just hold in place. If it still feels tight, add washer to the other bolt. It should be close to or falling under its own weight if you place it horizontal (no end links attached) and release it.
Testing a new water pump design.
I've got 2x water pressure sensors now, inlet pressure (steel pipe under intake manifold) and outlet pressure (under thermostat).
Will get data on the circuit in the next couple of weeks, checking for cavitation etc.
And I can compare temps in the long run as I have the lower radiator hose temp sensor. If there is an increase of efficiency then it will show up there.
Example water pressure x2 and water temp x2 data
Does the CP9a have the 2 temp sensor points on the thermostat housing? one on the front and one on the back? Or is that just a CT9a thing?
I use washers between the bracket and chassis to prevent over clamping the bushing. Basically add in 1 washer on one bolt per bracket and check if bar is free enough to only just hold in place. If it still feels tight, add washer to the other bolt. It should be close to or falling under its own weight if you place it horizontal (no end links attached) and release it.
oi thats a good one. I'll give it a shot, and also figure out how to inject grease!
New fun bit popped up this weekend, started getting much more aggressive puffs of smoke on lift after a pull. Found the check valve in my crankcase/catchcan setup failed.
Anyone have luck with a specific brand of check valve? I need a 3/8 or 10mm inline check valve.
is that oil into the intake or from the turbo seal? I've only used the ones with a rubber flap. I saw these earlier and I think it looks rock solid, and has good sizes https://www.uprproducts.com/upr-pro-...ting-pressure/