When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Spot on. Extra droop travel (with helper springs) isn't all that helpful for motorsports situations.
It could help very marginally for daily driving. If you're going over uneven surfaces like a driveway entrance and you find yourself lifting a tire, some extra droop travel could reduce the thunk when that tire hits the ground again. But that's about it.
Unless you're jumping the car, in which case you're going to need a lot more droop travel.
there are other things that happen on track that don't happen in autox. in relation to suspension, riding curbings is probably one of the biggest, depending on the track. some tracks impossible, other tracks are a must and can be a bumpy ride/large differential, you won't necessarily want a super stiff sway bar when doing that but u may want a little bit of give in the suspension.
(not saying the above case means more droop is needed, obviously the inner tire would not provide any grip, just highlighting a case of difference)
Not only that - a lot of things happening at the same time. rear wheel lift is mostly from the diagonal seesaw effect. this one is a standard 3rd gear corner and the outside front is gripping and (tire & suspension) compressing so its unloading the inner rear wheel. obviously that lift will be higher if going over a crest. top heavy car wants to topple over (CCW) so the body could be extending the shock also. its not all vertical forces, especially with stock aero
this is from that 4x4 wood under 1 rear tire. 145lb helper spring is uncompressed already.
also note that swaybars are like springs BUT it still has to go from unsprung to max-spring state, so to speak. has linkages and bushings to delay the maximum affect as well
Last edited by ViciousLSD; Mar 5, 2022 at 10:33 PM.
I run -5 front and -3.25 rear on slicks with aero on asphalt and im within the same ballpark of the ER spring rates so seems to be a going consensus among the 3 of us there..
Also, My head hurts with this droop travel keeper spring drivel going on in here for the last week now lol.
I run -5 front and -3.25 rear on slicks with aero on asphalt and im within the same ballpark of the ER spring rates so seems to be a going consensus among the 3 of us there..
Also, My head hurts with this droop travel keeper spring drivel going on in here for the last week now lol.
Droop is a never ending debate. My car would not work with droop (rear diff and suspension setup designed to turn on 3 wheels).
My buddies MR2 needs more droop so the rear torsen has something to leverage off of. Its situationally dependent, but I feel its more related to the diff needs.
I run -5 front and -3.25 rear on slicks with aero on asphalt and im within the same ballpark of the ER spring rates so seems to be a going consensus among the 3 of us there..
Also, My head hurts with this droop travel keeper spring drivel going on in here for the last week now lol.
-4, -3, 200tw on tarmac, so make it 4 of us.
Same with me on the droop stuff. Whether you have enough travel to push that tire to the ground with a helper or not, you're not getting any real tractive benefit from it when there's no load on it. Just focus on maximizing the work the outer tire can do and call it good.
in Autox, my rear tire has a violent landing. I think if the lift is too high my rear LSD is engaged before it lands. That hasnt happened since I got stiffer front springs.
For track I doubt those kinds situations would occur since you're going fast enough for that tire landing
in Autox, my rear tire has a violent landing. I think if the lift is too high my rear LSD is engaged before it lands. That hasnt happened since I got stiffer front springs.
For track I doubt those kinds situations would occur since you're going fast enough for that tire landing
Once the tire lifts the bar has dramatically less effect on roll rate. So I tell people to use the rear bar to tune when and how long the tire lifts. If yours is causing issues being too high, less bar wont effect mid corner but will change how much its lifted and how early it sets down.
Once the tire lifts the bar has dramatically less effect on roll rate. So I tell people to use the rear bar to tune when and how long the tire lifts. If yours is causing issues being too high, less bar wont effect mid corner but will change how much its lifted and how early it sets down.
I agree with you, but i think another major factor is driving style/skill. no left-foot-braking skill here, so I'm dive bombing in these extreme(autox) cases
Installed paddle shift into the evo and got it working. The gearbox is now shifting in 6ms according to the gear position sensor. total shift time including ramped recovery etc is about 50ms now. Heres the fastest lap from this weekends racing. car was on rails. this lap was a little bit scrappy especially the last turn i screwed up the entry but it was still fast none the less.
That's awesome for sure! I have almost enough saved for my sequential, in case I keep the Evo. I'm not racing, so can be okay with slower shifting and just enjoy it. This video gets me all psyched again.
Installed paddle shift into the evo and got it working. The gearbox is now shifting in 6ms according to the gear position sensor. total shift time including ramped recovery etc is about 50ms now. Heres the fastest lap from this weekends racing. car was on rails. this lap was a little bit scrappy especially the last turn i screwed up the entry but it was still fast none the less.
