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You guys find it useful on track at all? It was mildly entertaining the couple times
I had my fusion on the track, but wasn't sure it they were worth anything once
you get more into it. (this kit also does internal temp) ......
But decided to get something that does my tow rig and both trailers with only one kit.
So I stuffed them in my road course wheels/tires. Good thing I got that extra ram for my tire machine.
This ultra low profile stuff is a nightmare getting them on/off. Just had to lower bead a bunch and not remove tires
off rims. Some pics for kicks.
When I worked at DTC, we just used the shovel to fold the tire over.
If you balance your assemblies, the sensor will throw it off about 1/2oz. Just FYI.
99% of the time, I'm by myself. Assume you had someone else hold the shovel lever (or you
had a machine that locks??)
I got wheels/tires from tire rack, wasn't sure if they road forced them. I do have an older hunter
balancer, could chuck them up and see if they are out any, but I assume they are almost always out
on a normal spin balance, after a road force, no??
Our shovel arms had in and out controls, if you didn't send it out, it stayed in place.
Neat feature. Really wish my machine at least had an assist arm but oh well...
OP- be sure when you go to dismount/ remount that you are cognizant of where the TMPS is in relation to the duckhead. Good practice to start with it right past the head so it would need to spin 360 degrees around before hitting. Even being aware of this I've mistakenly taken mine out a couple times on my truck...duh! Its always the last one slips my mind and second later Im like grrrr you idiot!!! Now I keep spares on hand but worth noting.
Neat feature. Really wish my machine at least had an assist arm but oh well...
OP- be sure when you go to dismount/ remount that you are cognizant of where the TMPS is in relation to the duckhead. Good practice to start with it right past the head so it would need to spin 360 degrees around before hitting. Even being aware of this I've mistakenly taken mine out a couple times on my truck...duh! Its always the last one slips my mind and second later Im like grrrr you idiot!!! Now I keep spares on hand but worth noting.
When putting the bar in to pull the tire over the duck head, the sensor should be just behind the duck head, not in front of it.
I think we're saying the same thing. If I have sensor behind the duck head when I go to rotate the wheel assembly the duck head will interfere with the TPMS and break it. At least with my Hunter machine (think you were a Coats guy) I cant spin the wheel 360 degrees with duckhead down on a TPMS wheel like I can with a normal valve stem so I need to start it just past the 12 o'clock position.
EDIT: Got me curious so I just watched a quick video on YT. Seems my Hunter machine is a little unique in that regard. I literally have to put it past or it will take the sensor out. Appears with the more common style what you said is correct (didn't doubt you just assumed you meant the same thing since mine literally HAS to be that way)
Neat feature. Really wish my machine at least had an assist arm but oh well...
OP- be sure when you go to dismount/ remount that you are cognizant of where the TMPS is in relation to the duckhead. Good practice to start with it right past the head so it would need to spin 360 degrees around before hitting. Even being aware of this I've mistakenly taken mine out a couple times on my truck...duh! Its always the last one slips my mind and second later Im like grrrr you idiot!!! Now I keep spares on hand but worth noting.
Yeah. I wrote up a procedure calling out where to start tire valve in relation to head. I then made a zillion copies
and leave several all over the machine so I don't forget. Ruined 4 or 5 until I figured it all out.
Unfortunately, being this thing is straight from China, not sure if I can get more sensors. Going
to try and find out though. Finished up just before and seems to work well enough with unit sitting on the tires.
Kind of looking forward to what internal temps are going to be.
As long as you know for your machine then you're good to go. I didnt realize it was different depending on machine but Sean has far more tire experience than me so clearly if he said that's how to do it then, well yeah, lol. Not sure what kind of machine you have appears to be an offshore Greg Smith type sourced machine which I believe has a more traditional duck head that floats just above the rim of the wheel vs mine that sits on the rim. But sounds like you've figured it out
Also, not exactly sure what type of sensors those are but you should be able to find rebuild kits that come with replacement valve stems on the cheap vs replacing the entire sensor.
I think we're saying the same thing. If I have sensor behind the duck head when I go to rotate the wheel assembly the duck head will interfere with the TPMS and break it. At least with my Hunter machine (think you were a Coats guy) I cant spin the wheel 360 degrees with duckhead down on a TPMS wheel like I can with a normal valve stem so I need to start it just past the 12 o'clock position.
EDIT: Got me curious so I just watched a quick video on YT. Seems my Hunter machine is a little unique in that regard. I literally have to put it past or it will take the sensor out. Appears with the more common style what you said is correct (didn't doubt you just assumed you meant the same thing since mine literally HAS to be that way)
You guys find it useful on track at all? It was mildly entertaining the couple times
I had my fusion on the track, but wasn't sure it they were worth anything once
you get more into it. (this kit also does internal temp) ......
So what about the original question? If temp and pressure info is accurate, this might be quite nice at the track. After crunching one of the sensor when I hit road crap on the freeway last year, I gave up replacing them and just live with the warning.
Should look at motorsport grade systems that have some sort of output that is compatible with whatever datalogging you're doing. It's kind of like oil temp or pressure, if you're just glancing at a screen you can't compare it to ANY other point of data at that time. I'll be looking to add this to my DL-1 later this year...or something like it:
As long as you know for your machine then you're good to go. I didnt realize it was different depending on machine but Sean has far more tire experience than me so clearly if he said that's how to do it then, well yeah, lol. Not sure what kind of machine you have appears to be an offshore Greg Smith type sourced machine which I believe has a more traditional duck head that floats just above the rim of the wheel vs mine that sits on the rim. But sounds like you've figured it out
Also, not exactly sure what type of sensors those are but you should be able to find rebuild kits that come with replacement valve stems on the cheap vs replacing the entire sensor.
Sensors are potted and don't look like you can change the battery even. Tire valves are all metal, except for internal rubber seal,
which looks about the same as any other metal tire valve seal, so at least that should be replaceable.
Originally Posted by Balrok
Should look at motorsport grade systems that have some sort of output that is compatible with whatever datalogging you're doing. It's kind of like oil temp or pressure, if you're just glancing at a screen you can't compare it to ANY other point of data at that time. I'll be looking to add this to my DL-1 later this year...or something like it:
Not sure I'll ever get that fancy, but if one did, I guess the question still stands. Can you "generally" tell anything about alignment,
chassis setups, or even driving habits maybe, by change in air pressure and/or internal tire air temp?
Yes and no. If you don't have a pyrometer then it's a good general guide as to who's running hot, getting more grip wear, etc if you do enough laps. In my case I have pyro readings so I know temp is alignment is good but I've no clue if I dropped 3-5psi on a cooldown lap to know if I hit target temp/pressure at a given starting temp and pressure or not. It's easy enough to guess "well that felt good" but MOST of the time at a race you don't have the luxury of having a whole crew jumping over the wall 10 seconds after you came in HOT from the last corner. And even then you'll loose some accuracy to know all 4 got to exactly 39psi at a given amb/track temp. I've been in 20+ lap races and felt the tires give way...and then come back a lap later for half a lap, etc. Was it pressure, was it temp, who knows. I can then go back on video, ok lap 7 she went, what was I at.
