Do I have the heaviest EVO?
I disagree. My Antigravity bat, cable, breaker, and bat tray are all prob 1/2 the weight of a standard battery. And its a big weight off the nose.
EvoM Community Team Leader
Joined: Aug 2005
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From: West Coast
EvoM Community Team Leader
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 5,690
Likes: 708
From: West Coast
I agree, shifting that weight definitely has advantages. You can take it a step further and rewire your fuel circuits etc. and remove the stock wiring/relays to eliminate / relocate even more weight.
Make her take a taxi lol.
My doors look exactly like above, gutted to make room for door bars as part of cage but left the handle/lock usable.
An alternative to Pla$man IC would be the Blitz if your not over 600hp for over an hour. I didn't have a scale but I'd wager it weighs 30+lbs less my TurboXS I had before. https://www.rhdjapan.com/blitz-intercooler-se-ct9a.html
My doors look exactly like above, gutted to make room for door bars as part of cage but left the handle/lock usable.
An alternative to Pla$man IC would be the Blitz if your not over 600hp for over an hour. I didn't have a scale but I'd wager it weighs 30+lbs less my TurboXS I had before. https://www.rhdjapan.com/blitz-intercooler-se-ct9a.html
An alternative to Pla$man IC would be the Blitz if your not over 600hp for over an hour. I didn't have a scale but I'd wager it weighs 30+lbs less my TurboXS I had before. https://www.rhdjapan.com/blitz-intercooler-se-ct9a.html
i have the blitz ic. ordered from nengun.
https://qlmotorsport.com/2019/09/22/...fmic-map-licp/
12lbs, not bad from the 10 the OEM is. I went with this over bar and plate due to the weight, and because i dont ever plan to make more than 350 or so.
@Driv200 what is the driverless weight? Reading your list of mods, and with mine in comparison, thought yours would be a touch lighter.
If I don't have the ability to do batt & ACD relocations, any known evo shops in the mdiwest that offer this?
https://qlmotorsport.com/2019/09/22/...fmic-map-licp/
12lbs, not bad from the 10 the OEM is. I went with this over bar and plate due to the weight, and because i dont ever plan to make more than 350 or so.
@Driv200 what is the driverless weight? Reading your list of mods, and with mine in comparison, thought yours would be a touch lighter.
If I don't have the ability to do batt & ACD relocations, any known evo shops in the mdiwest that offer this?
Ya I got mine from RHD, great folks. But ya it was Kyoo that ran with it first, very nice quality unit. 44lbs vs 12lbs right where you want it. Took about 2 weeks to get it.
In with Kyoo also on a ACD write up, what fittings work, which leak and which don't, basic pics and parts list maybe for the DIY's. While I'd prefer a braided line with compressed fittings much like brake lines, I believe Dallas was saying the line only saw ~15psi and most racing hose you can build/get these days is ~300psi capable. I'll likely put mine in the rear pass floorboard like someone else I saw did (Bee?)
In with Kyoo also on a ACD write up, what fittings work, which leak and which don't, basic pics and parts list maybe for the DIY's. While I'd prefer a braided line with compressed fittings much like brake lines, I believe Dallas was saying the line only saw ~15psi and most racing hose you can build/get these days is ~300psi capable. I'll likely put mine in the rear pass floorboard like someone else I saw did (Bee?)
Ya I got mine from RHD, great folks. But ya it was Kyoo that ran with it first, very nice quality unit. 44lbs vs 12lbs right where you want it. Took about 2 weeks to get it.
In with Kyoo also on a ACD write up, what fittings work, which leak and which don't, basic pics and parts list maybe for the DIY's. While I'd prefer a braided line with compressed fittings much like brake lines, I believe Dallas was saying the line only saw ~15psi and most racing hose you can build/get these days is ~300psi capable. I'll likely put mine in the rear pass floorboard like someone else I saw did (Bee?)
In with Kyoo also on a ACD write up, what fittings work, which leak and which don't, basic pics and parts list maybe for the DIY's. While I'd prefer a braided line with compressed fittings much like brake lines, I believe Dallas was saying the line only saw ~15psi and most racing hose you can build/get these days is ~300psi capable. I'll likely put mine in the rear pass floorboard like someone else I saw did (Bee?)
From the manual it can get to 200psi but Dallas's data is data...
Its really not hard. It took me a while to get it how I wanted but its not too bad. Modifing OE bracket, nicop tubing, ridgid flare tool, all OE connections at pump and Tcase. Wiring and tubing were the hardest part.
Then again my car was just a shell on jackstands, would be considerably harder on a fully assembled car.
Its really not hard. It took me a while to get it how I wanted but its not too bad. Modifing OE bracket, nicop tubing, ridgid flare tool, all OE connections at pump and Tcase. Wiring and tubing were the hardest part.
Then again my car was just a shell on jackstands, would be considerably harder on a fully assembled car.
looking more at actual batteries, i would probably just go with this one next time: https://antigravitybatteries.com/pro...-oem/atx20-rs/
3.8lbs and always reserves the charge amount. that's nothing
3.8lbs and always reserves the charge amount. that's nothing
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From the manual it can get to 200psi but Dallas's data is data...
Its really not hard. It took me a while to get it how I wanted but its not too bad. Modifing OE bracket, nicop tubing, ridgid flare tool, all OE connections at pump and Tcase. Wiring and tubing were the hardest part.
Then again my car was just a shell on jackstands, would be considerably harder on a fully assembled car.
Its really not hard. It took me a while to get it how I wanted but its not too bad. Modifing OE bracket, nicop tubing, ridgid flare tool, all OE connections at pump and Tcase. Wiring and tubing were the hardest part.
Then again my car was just a shell on jackstands, would be considerably harder on a fully assembled car.