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Your car is full weight isnt it? And with a cage? There is a lot of room for improvement.
I have a feeling I'm going to need to buy scales and an alignment kit so I can do it all at home. There isnt much in the way of evo friendly shops here in STL. Took that for granted in Chicago...
Your car is full weight isnt it? And with a cage? There is a lot of room for improvement.
I have a feeling I'm going to need to buy scales and an alignment kit so I can do it all at home. There isnt much in the way of evo friendly shops here in STL. Took that for granted in Chicago...
i always go to sps for alignment and cb on my Evo, Dave is very familiar with my car. certainly not as evo friendly in stl but there are still shops that are familiar with the car
i always go to sps for alignment and cb on my Evo, Dave is very familiar with my car. certainly not as evo friendly in stl but there are still shops that are familiar with the car
In the long run its probably still a better idea to get my own kit. Cant imagine what I've spent on alignments over the years.
And yes. I should have said with driver weight (sand bags 220lbs in drivers seat). Full tank of e85. Rear bolt in cage. Full interior.
Have carbon 2pc drive axle and light weight flywheel. My huge dry sump (10.5qrts oil) and 18” PF01’s probably offset slight weight reductions. Definitely need she sub frames.
And yes. I should have said with driver weight (sand bags 220lbs in drivers seat). Full tank of e85. Rear bolt in cage. Full interior.
Have carbon 2pc drive axle and light weight flywheel. My huge dry sump (10.5qrts oil) and 18” PF01’s probably offset slight weight reductions. Definitely need she sub frames.
gonna have my car weighed and aligned in ab a week or two - i'll post the with/without driver pics. mine is full interior, no cage, no major weight removal stuff, just spare, suspension, and battery. exhaust is probably as heavy as oem due to all the resonators welded onto it.
I weighed my car a couple years ago. Without driver it was ~2830 (grain factory scale, only accurate to 10lbs).
That's no interior except dash, gutted doors, lexan side windows and a 9 point cage, No light weight suspension parts.
If I moved to a fuel cell and aftermarket subframes with some other odds and ends I could get it below 2700 for sure. Getting down to 2600 or below would require carbon body panels and tubing parts of the chassis.
What did your car start out life as? GSR, RS, MR, SE, SSL?
Last edited by Ayoustin; Apr 27, 2020 at 08:42 AM.
I weighed my car a couple years ago. Without driver it was ~2830 (grain factory scale, only accurate to 10lbs).
That's no interior and a 9 point cage, No light weight suspension parts. If I moved to a fuel cell and aftermarket subframes with some other odds and ends I could get it below 2700 for sure. Getting down to 2600 or below would require carbon body panels and tubing parts of the chassis.
What did your car start out life as? GSR, RS, MR, SE, SSL?
Last month it was around 3143? getting it to minimum 3121 hopefully. Last season it was 3200. This is with a zillion point cage and half tank, all the lightweight parts minus the driveshaft itself still being stock and 200lbs of driver gear, cool suit, etc.
The easiest ones are the obvious ones. If it's a track car there's no need for all the extra iron. Front/rear beams (BUT KEEP SOMETHING THERE), rear diff mustache bar, tube and fin intercooler, gut trunk, remove oem bumper metal/foam, etc. I was most amazed by the difference in the intercooler cores, holy hell. One of you did the Blitz write up already for reference.
