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Do I have the heaviest EVO?

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Old Apr 27, 2020 | 10:36 AM
  #16  
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I like the hanging fishing rod reels. I might borrow that.

How did they get the height back to "normal" after lifting on the 2-post? They just leave the car on the tire stands over night? When I lift my car on my 2-post and then put it back down, it sits about half an inch higher. I usually drive it around the block while jerking the steering wheel back and forth and then re-measuring before lifting and making adjustments. It takes a long time.
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Old Apr 27, 2020 | 10:42 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by nollij
I like the hanging fishing rod reels. I might borrow that.

How did they get the height back to "normal" after lifting on the 2-post? They just leave the car on the tire stands over night? When I lift my car on my 2-post and then put it back down, it sits about half an inch higher. I usually drive it around the block while jerking the steering wheel back and forth and then re-measuring before lifting and making adjustments. It takes a long time.
I don't know how they are doing it, but when I did it in my garage I used two plates with grease between them so when i lowered the car they would slip and allow the suspension to settle.
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Old Apr 27, 2020 | 11:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Biggiesacks
I don't know how they are doing it, but when I did it in my garage I used two plates with grease between them so when i lowered the car they would slip and allow the suspension to settle.
Yep fishing rods are best. We normally jump/bounce the car at rest on the skid plates. You can also use salt between two tiles, this is what I normally do at the track.
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Old Apr 27, 2020 | 01:58 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Balrok
Yep fishing rods are best. We normally jump/bounce the car at rest on the skid plates. You can also use salt between two tiles, this is what I normally do at the track.
I tried the salt first, but after a few up and downs it was getting crushed and wasn't really slipping well. The grease was for sure a bit harder to keep clean but the slip was almost too good. I could lightly nudge the car and the whole thing would slide.
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Old Apr 27, 2020 | 02:38 PM
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Nope, I haven't weighed it, but I probably have the heaviest Evo
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Old Apr 27, 2020 | 03:00 PM
  #21  
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Whoa, she's a porker! Even with the heavy wheels and no rear weight reduction Im under 3k without me. There is an easy path to Sub 2900 but its mostly rear weight but I do have a plan for 2950 (2900 is min weight) with a 56% front weight.
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Old Apr 27, 2020 | 03:04 PM
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You'll are forgetting about our car's younger brother/sister the X!!!

PS for DIY turnplates I picked up 4 lazy susans and stack in between two pieces of wood. Forget the weight rating but picked up the beefiest ones I could find form orange racing supply.

Also, 3400 isnt terrible if you break it down. Between 220# of ballast for you and ~100# of fuel youre right around 3100. Not saying your car is light but you also have probably 60# in your rollbar. Just be happy you started with an RS

EDIT: When people are quoting weight what are you doing about fuel? I feel like numbers are constantly thrown around and I'm always jealous yet cant help but think some of the numbers are fudged bc they're with zero fuel or fuel light on which isn't reasonable race weight. Im right around 3000# currently but thats with fuel and also trying to keep in mind where the weight is coming from. Sure I did the free stuff like pull spare tire but low hanging fruit like say tubular mustache bar theres an easy something like 15# there but not sure It'll help much unless it was a drag car.

Last edited by heel2toe; Apr 27, 2020 at 03:17 PM.
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Old Apr 27, 2020 | 03:28 PM
  #23  
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My 05 RS is at 3045 with no driver and full fluids
I can see where to drop another 20lbs fairly easily but beyond that it gets tight without getting rid of streetcar amenities or just blowing a bunch of cash.
Last week I took my rear door panel off hoping to see some easy weigh to shed via the crashbars but it barely seemed like it would be worth the risk of damaging the door skin.
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Old Apr 27, 2020 | 04:19 PM
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My car is 3440 with my 220lb self in it. Full street car with AC and interior, no cage, 7qt wet sump oil pan, and its SSL so the HID headlights, stereo and sun roof add weight over a base model car.

Last edited by letsgetthisdone; Apr 28, 2020 at 11:12 AM.
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Old Apr 28, 2020 | 10:26 AM
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Originally Posted by letsgetthisdone
My car is 3440 with my 220lb self in it. Full street car with AC and interior, no cage, 7qt wet sump oil pan, and its SSL so the HID headlights, stereo and sun roof add weight over a vase model car.
Ya that Vase model never did hold together well ;P
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Old Apr 28, 2020 | 11:12 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Balrok
Ya that Vase model never did hold together well ;P
Damnit lol
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Old Apr 28, 2020 | 10:05 PM
  #27  
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Enjoyed the comments guys. Sounds like I am on the heavy side by a small margin. I forgot I already have front mustache bar. What was that front intercooler bar plate recommendation? I think I have a bar plate style already, but not sure it’s lighter than usual. I’ll have to check. I just want to get back to track and see if my rear negative camber increase will help me stay closer to the 4 wheel steering GT3 RS’s through the apex’s. Sucks to be giving your EVO it’s all on stickies and see the rear tires of the car ahead waiving bye at you. Actually, I just couldn’t find the groove that day. It happens. New alignment, new brakes, new SSB parts....it was a new set up.

Back to weight. I see carbon doors for sale every now and then w/o windows. That’s like caging the car and going full race and losing what little street functionality I have left. Sometimes I like the idea and sometimes not. The sub frames and SSB spindles are in my sights. Plexiglass doesn’t seem to bother me though. I even like how it looks. As long as it would last anyway. Who knows. Dumb to be chasing race car dreams trying to keep a street car functional. That’s my sickness. The only fix for that is two EVO’s....which would require me to become single.
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Old Apr 28, 2020 | 10:43 PM
  #28  
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Plastic windows is a BIG commitment. Considerably more wind noise and they rattle a lot. They're super cheap to make but making them work with a factory regulator might be a challenge. Mine are just held in with quarter turn fasteners so they're either in or out, no in between.

Changing out both subframes for tubular units will drop 60-70lbs.

If you're not already, consider moving to an aluminum catback exhaust for the lightest possible exhaust (although they're usually louder than stainless or Ti).

As mentioned a tube and fin intercooler will drop a couple pounds but most out there aren't going to be able to cool well enough for 500hp, though I think Plazmaman makes one or two that might be up to the task, just might have to wait for shipping from overseas.

There's a couple companies that make factory location fuel cells (allows you to retain the fuel gauge and fuel fill port and they hold 6-7 gallons. That would chop another 30ish lbs.

If you still have any interior bits in the rear of the car pull them out. The rear is useless with a rollbar or cage so there's no point in keeping an interior other than for vanity.

Chop out the spare tire well in the trunk and replace it with an aluminum floor.

Other than that you're going to be pulling more interior bits from the front of the car that will hinder its street friendliness.
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Old Apr 29, 2020 | 12:20 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Driv200
Enjoyed the comments guys. Sounds like I am on the heavy side by a small margin. I forgot I already have front mustache bar. What was that front intercooler bar plate recommendation? I think I have a bar plate style already, but not sure it’s lighter than usual. I’ll have to check. I just want to get back to track and see if my rear negative camber increase will help me stay closer to the 4 wheel steering GT3 RS’s through the apex’s. Sucks to be giving your EVO it’s all on stickies and see the rear tires of the car ahead waiving bye at you. Actually, I just couldn’t find the groove that day. It happens. New alignment, new brakes, new SSB parts....it was a new set up.

Back to weight. I see carbon doors for sale every now and then w/o windows. That’s like caging the car and going full race and losing what little street functionality I have left. Sometimes I like the idea and sometimes not. The sub frames and SSB spindles are in my sights. Plexiglass doesn’t seem to bother me though. I even like how it looks. As long as it would last anyway. Who knows. Dumb to be chasing race car dreams trying to keep a street car functional. That’s my sickness. The only fix for that is two EVO’s....which would require me to become single.
Bar and plate style intercoolers are the heavier ones. This is the best tube and fin intercooler you can get: https://plazmaman.com/product/mitsub...ies-sweptback/
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Old Apr 29, 2020 | 06:25 AM
  #30  
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i don't think there's a ton of "reasonable" things you can do to a street car to chop weight, esp in the front. I've got the spare tire out, coilovers, small batt, and that's about all i'm willing to do. I dont think my exhaust saves me any weight with all the resonators. not willing to drop ac. i've got the jdm rear and stm's front and rear crash beams but i'm not sure how much that really saves me; in the front, not very much at all.

i guess seats? but our seats aren't that heavy to begin with.
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