all of those coin type valves are normally open if mounted vertically.
I use the silver one below. its sprung. since I have hoses with oil queued up in them from oil separators, just their weight is enough to let the it drain down

 

Have you considered using a vacuum powered fuel pump to remove the blow by oil?

Even in a turbo engine there should be pressure pulses that could be used to trigger the pumping action. These pumps are common on small gas engines up to about 25hp.

Mitsuatb

 

that will run dry. Gear & Gasoline tried that btw

 

Should not matter if it runs dry, diaphragm pump doesn't matter if it runs dry nothing to wear.

This is not a electric vacuum pump or a scavenge pump. Mikuni and others make them for carbs on small engines. They run on intake or crankcase pulses. One hose for vacuum, two others for fluid in and out, that's it. 1/4" hose typically.

Let it run whenever there is a vacuum to power it. If it runs dry, great that is the intent, and the slop is out of the catch can and back in the sump.

No wires, no switches, no sensors.

I have never done it but it should work.

 

I don't know man. Gravity is free and never breaks, No wires, no switches, no sensors.

 

True, but pressure puts the blow by in the catch can not gravity.
So gravity may not be sufficient to drain it against pressure.
A pump can develop pressure to overcome the crankcase pressure. Also it can use smaller lines. Works for JD lawn mowers.
If I am not mistaken GG tried various gravity systems with little success. Finally fitted an electric pump sensors and switches.
It will be an experiment but I think it has a good chance of working.

 

I never saw GG do an oil return except with an electric pump. their thing is they're always looking for a "name brand/professional solution" for the clicks nothing wrong with that except his has way too much blowby (like mine) so it needed more baffling and oil/air separation
So imagine oil is being pushed out of the dipstick, do you think that oil with collect and stay suspended up there while you're racing for 20mins? It will always drain back down

 

At a certain point when you're fiddling with vacuum pumps and bunch of other silly stuff... just put a dry sump setup in. It's solves every single problem of oiling, crankcase pressure, and filling catch cans in one install.

 

I was suggesting a vacuum operated fuel pump - Nothing like a vacuum pump or scavenge stages on a dry sump. Just enough to move the oil without special drains. $31

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mku-df52-176

 

okidok wet sump thread

 

Not wrong, DS would fix it all.
But the issue as I understand it was excessive blow by and how to send it to the oil pan before the catch can dumps it all over the engine bay.
Gears and Gasoline could barely get a lap without issue.
They went to IE pan and electric pumps ect.
If the vac fuel pump could do the job then you only have one moving part.
The idea fairy can be a B#tch and you would have to experiment and possibly fail to get the idea to work.

 

I think that works for single piston crankcases where the upward stroke can create vacuum and downward stroke releases it, and creating a pumping action

 

I used to work for Kawasaki building Lawn mower engines. They used a plastic version on V - Twins for the big zero turn 1000cc mower engines.

So useful on more than a single. Don't have specs.

Mitsuatb

 

do those turbo lawn mowers have lots of blowby

 

Not that I am aware of, but any changes required 3000 hrs of dyno time with an offset weighted blade. They are good motors.

But the Evo has factory vacuum operated power brakes. So there are negative pulses in the intake to power the brake booster.

So an impulse vacuum operated pump that moves 35 L per hour should find enough vacuum source to drain a catch can.

If that wouldn't work then it is likely that the brakes would fail also. Then the car would be off the track upside down and gravity will drain the can.

Mitsuatb