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Crankcase Pressure and Blowby

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Old May 5, 2022 | 11:04 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Dallas J
The biggest issue is oil vapor re-condensing and getting sucked in intake. Its a slow build, but every year or two I need to pull the FMIC and pour some acetone in there to break it up and drain it out.
yeah, same (but more mileage for me). that film of oil inside all the plumbing will pool and just circulate and accumulate. my stock bov was an oil collector and dumping into my intake and some are going out of the air filter box every blowoff. I even put a drain right in front of the turbo since it pools there. i'm done with that. I have another catch container for my breathers since I dont want oily fumes in the engine bay
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Old May 5, 2022 | 12:44 PM
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Just a thought - Wasted pressure = Wasted power.

They make gapless rings. https://www.totalseal.com/rings/gapless-rings Not sure they are for Evo forged pistons.

Where people get in trouble is running large ring gaps with forged pistons that allow a lot of blow by. If you ran a gapless 2nd ring some of these issues might go away.

The top ring will need the larger gap the most due to high heat. Then stop blow by with a gapless 2nd ring.

I checked and they do make a gapless 2nd ring for Evo's https://webcatalog.totalseal.com/Home/partdetail/2746

Never saw anybody do this and I have not tried it myself. But the level of venting some use is borderline crazy. If you have that much blow by you have bad rings, blown valve seals, head gasket or some other crack or issue. Excessive venting is just a band aid on a deeper problem.

Mitsuatb

Last edited by mitsuatb; May 5, 2022 at 12:51 PM.
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Old May 5, 2022 | 12:58 PM
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Perfectionists do not race unfortunately.
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Old May 5, 2022 | 12:59 PM
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Do oil/air separators need to be cold to function correctly, or would a heated can remove vapour?
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Old May 5, 2022 | 01:43 PM
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Originally Posted by TimC909
Do oil/air separators need to be cold to function correctly, or would a heated can remove vapour?
Its not evaporation that's the mechanism to separate air/water, so no. Usually something like a coalescing filter is needing to grab the oils from the vapor.
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Old May 5, 2022 | 02:21 PM
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you also need the baffle plate part
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Old May 5, 2022 | 02:25 PM
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Dallas - do you have any detailed pics or info on your head drain porting you did?
I honestly think this is crucial for track-driven Evo's.

Originally Posted by Dallas J
Maybe Ive just been lucky, but in both my 2.3 and 2.2 builds I've never had oil buildup issues in my catch can on the rear vent running -10 fitting to a Radium can with the exception of when I ran oil a bit too full.

I do have all my drains heavily ported in the head FWIW. The biggest issue is oil vapor re-condensing and getting sucked in intake. Its a slow build, but every year or two I need to pull the FMIC and pour some acetone in there to break it up and drain it out.
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Old May 5, 2022 | 03:06 PM
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Nope, just got in there and knocked out the casting flash and ground it open with a carbide burr. One of mine was ~50% blocked with casting flash but most of them were pretty good. Much better than my old DSM stuff that were all partially blocked.
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Old May 6, 2022 | 03:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Dallas J
Its not evaporation that's the mechanism to separate air/water, so no. Usually something like a coalescing filter is needing to grab the oils from the vapor.
Don't some catch cans or AOSs have coolant lines to heat them? I always thought that was to assist in evaporating the water component of the oil/condensation mix in the can, especially with E85.
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Old May 6, 2022 | 05:58 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by EVO8LTW
Don't some catch cans or AOSs have coolant lines to heat them? I always thought that was to assist in evaporating the water component of the oil/condensation mix in the can, especially with E85.
That was my thinking too. Obviously surface area of mesh and plates inside the can is how the separation happens, but if you need to get rid of condensation I would of thought heating it would of help.


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Old May 8, 2022 | 07:23 PM
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there's no water in liquid form in the engine at operating temps. the water you see when you clean the catch cans are condensation from when the air in a confined space cools down
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Old May 9, 2022 | 10:53 AM
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Originally Posted by mitsuatb
Just a thought - Wasted pressure = Wasted power.

They make gapless rings. https://www.totalseal.com/rings/gapless-rings Not sure they are for Evo forged pistons.

Where people get in trouble is running large ring gaps with forged pistons that allow a lot of blow by. If you ran a gapless 2nd ring some of these issues might go away.

The top ring will need the larger gap the most due to high heat. Then stop blow by with a gapless 2nd ring.

I checked and they do make a gapless 2nd ring for Evo's https://webcatalog.totalseal.com/Home/partdetail/2746

Never saw anybody do this and I have not tried it myself. But the level of venting some use is borderline crazy. If you have that much blow by you have bad rings, blown valve seals, head gasket or some other crack or issue. Excessive venting is just a band aid on a deeper problem.

Mitsuatb
This is not how that works. Ring gaps have to get so insanely huge to effect power its ridiculous.

Also you can't run a gapless second ring with a gapped compression (top) ring. It will cause ring flutter and break ****.

Excess venting is NOT a bandaid. These engines make a lot of power. Even at only 400whp, we can easily assume that at the crank, the engine is making 110-120hp per cylinder. Even with perfect 5-8% leakdown, there is A LOT of fuel/air in that cylinder, and a lot of pressure. So leaking 5-8% of that is going to be a lot of air getting into the crankcase that needs to vented.


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Old May 10, 2022 | 06:32 AM
  #28  
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Wrong on every count

The link if you looked at it would show that gapless second rings are commonly run with Gapped top rings. They sell sets of rings with that feature. It is their business.

Why Choose a Gapless® Top or Gapless® 2nd Ring?

A Gapless® top provides the greatest performance benefit (increased horsepower and crankcase vacuum). However, a Gapless® 2nd provides excellent oil control and blow-by prevention (less oil consumption).As such, we typically recommend a Gapless® top for naturally aspirated applications, especially V8 and straight engines.For flat (horizontally opposed) engines and turbo or surper-charged engines, we recommend a Gapless® 2nd.Most Total Seal® piston ring styles are available in Gapless® configurations.

Many engines run without needing all this venting at similar power levels.

Mitsuatb

Originally Posted by letsgetthisdone
This is not how that works. Ring gaps have to get so insanely huge to effect power its ridiculous.

Also you can't run a gapless second ring with a gapped compression (top) ring. It will cause ring flutter and break ****.

Excess venting is NOT a bandaid. These engines make a lot of power. Even at only 400whp, we can easily assume that at the crank, the engine is making 110-120hp per cylinder. Even with perfect 5-8% leakdown, there is A LOT of fuel/air in that cylinder, and a lot of pressure. So leaking 5-8% of that is going to be a lot of air getting into the crankcase that needs to vented.

Last edited by mitsuatb; May 10, 2022 at 08:24 AM.
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Old May 11, 2022 | 01:11 PM
  #29  
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Wrong on every count...lmao. Good luck bud
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Old May 11, 2022 | 08:35 PM
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some reading on the subject of second ring flutter.
https://www.researchgate.net/profile...el-Engines.pdf
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