I dont know, maybe you need to reduce giving 'words to live by' to start


My fault. I dont have much opportunity to write legibly with a pen.

I need to update this with the additional separator.

 

I googled this earlier. They're probably using all the tricks in the crankcase already


"Danny Nelson Racecraft Chassis is a premier builder of Top Dragster, Super Comp and Bracket Dragsters"

 

+1 for the gapless 2nd ring setup. Fuel/air blowby past the rings into the sump at high boost contaminates the oil
Rear pcv catch can to keep the IM clean & the side vent catch can to keep the Turbo/IC clean
A hose from the mid of the side vent catch can could be routed to the exhaust with a check valve to pull a bit of case pres out

 

Have you personally seen the results of the gapless 2nd ring setup in a 4G63 or 4B11?

 

The only time this was an issue for me is when my rings were done (IIRC I had a broken ringland). Now I dont smell fuel in my system so I'm thinking it leaks during the power stroke, and thats why i catch water

 

Alrightey, track day test results. Track sprints/time trials event so no traffic. Has a long lefthand-sweeper. ~29psi/E85/200tw tires. This is all the "liquid" I got from the rear port of the VC (post oil separator)


This is the breather on the trans side... no oil there and in the catch can



Not totally maintenance-free, but good enough for me

 

Can you confirm you're running a stock block CT9A setup?

 

I have a Bushur 2.0 shortblock. no idea what went in there but I gained a whopping 5hp compared to my original 60kmi engine.

 

Not sure if this is a thing but i used qtips on my pistons. No idea why #1 is the cleanest. My PCV still works

 

I know of a builder using them on engines running high boost

 

I've just installed a 1/2NPT to 12AN vent on the front of the block (4G63).
Previously i've tried venting off the back of the block, and it just doesn't work. The oil gets flicked up by the crankshaft, so that back block wall is covered in oil.
Venting off the front of the block should result in much less oil being pushed out.
I'll know next weekend and will share the results.

 

That looks like a nice location for a vent, looking forward to results on that one.

 

+1 on the do not vent from the back. I have tried it and it is a ****ty solution... lost an engine because of it in the end..

 

whut? how?

 

I made a really nice catchcan that used a port on the back of the block (above the balance shaft) for venting the block (along with venting from the top)... The idea was for the catchcan to catch most of the oil vapors and the oil would flow back into the block.. It is actually similar to what a lot of oem engines have (but they have a port on the front.. )

Anyway.. while testing the car all was perfect untill one long right hander at high rpm where it blew so much oil into the catchcan that it threw some oil back into the intake (as the catchcan was recirculated). It was a BIG catchcan but still... The oil hydrolocked one of the pistons and pushed out the headgasked a bit. I checked the compression height after removing the head and saw that the rod was fine... My mistake was not removing the sump and replacing the big end bearings... The car was ok later, but was not driven much, and not driven really hard... It started producing some weird symptoms, like having knock from a single lifter.. and later mivec errors... Well, I changed the lifters and on the next really hard drive it lost a rod bearing, in a major way... it was the bearing from the hydrlocked piston.... swarf wiped out the cams, cam gear, crank... etc...