sorry to hear about that. I tried to recirculate from a catch/return can...I used a plastic fuel filter instead of a check valve on the return line to the dipstick. just idling the car for 3 secs and i saw the pvc vacuum was pulling oil up like it was sipping thru a drinking straw . So i decided to use a pretty check valve I was saving for some future use

 

Not NEARLY as much space with a stock frame turbo in that area.

 

Just poked my head in my engine bay to see, looks like plenty of room for a fitting and braided line to run out. Especially right behind where the o2 sensor is (I have no AC so maybe thats in the way?).

 

extra venting on the block... are there seals that cant take the CC pressure? or affecting oil pressure or something? why not just make/customize an oil filler cap
BTW I'm losing oil and see some tiny trace on the oil filter. could this be leaking due to the high CC pressure?

 

My main reason for venting off the block is to help the head drain the oil back down.
There is a point where the crankcase pressure is high enough that it holds the oil in the head.
The oil is trying to drain down, but the gas is moving up.
So if you can reduce the gas going up by venting it off the block, it should help promote the head draining and less oil above the baffles (my theory!)

 

Hose fitted to the block with fireproof sleeving. I might do a head shield and bolt it onto the block. will probably get hot there.
Going to get the new catch can fitted this week, will update with pics and info soon.

 

Also, if you vent from the block, you can machine off those two channels in the head that are used for venting only, and get them to act as as oil drain too..

 

now we're talking...

Imagine venting off the block with 2x 1/2NPT ports and blocking off the valve cover ports completely...
There would be no air travelling up the head drains at all...
Interesting thought.

 

dry sump it and run it sealed..

 

5" diameter catch can. Around 2.5L capacity. Internal baffling to pull oil vapour from the air.
10AN on the back of the can for draining and pumping (if required).
Note the 12AN line off the front of the block.

Testing tomorrow!

 

I hope you dont get oil on those CPS terminals

 

@RSMike have you tested just the top ports? that extra turn for the air flow could do a lot already

 

Damn thats a nice valvecover, who makes it?

Nice catch can too, Should work well. Although it may need more vents/filters.

 

Yup - didn't work. Both of the ports on are the far left side of the head, so when you're on a clockwise (RH) circuit, the oil (above the baffles) sloshes out the lines. You can see it on the crankcase pressure sensor too. Crankcase pressure rises when you're in a high G-force RH turn.

Hypertune - an Australian company. Not too badly priced.

RESULTS - 6 hard laps at my local circuit with almost no oil in my catch can.
Main changes:
1) drilled more holes in the baffle plates. Allows more air in, and more oil out.
2) filled rocker cover with yellow fuel tank foam. Just to restrict the oil sloshing around above the baffles.
3) 12AN vent off the block (front, below #1 cylinder).

Previously - the old setup would fill the catch can in around 3 laps. So this definitely a big improvement.



Pics of the Hypertune Rocker cover and baffles.


Hypertune cover with no baffles installed

fuel tank foam installed to help with oil being pushed out the breather lines

extra holes drilled into the baffle plates to help with draining oil that gets above them

 

Time will tell, but I will say from experience that higher up can and shorter hoses will lead to oil eventually depending on boost and engine condition. When that vent also begins sending out "oily air" whatever is under it will get it. In both wet and dry sump setups I ended up mounting the can a low as possible with longer routes to solve the issues - and now I get water vapor like you see there.

FF's didn't come with those battle plates.