fix itttt....!!!

 

i never stopped working on the wb02 design. right now i'm trying to solve the issue of powering the heater.

the easiest thing to do is using PWM to a FET of some sort switching the heater power directly, and then possibly Low Pass Filtered. The problem with this is that switching the FET induces alot of noise, in the mixed signal system.

PWC (Megasquirt) uses a regulated DC source controlled by precision DAC driven by the uC. I believe JAW also uses a regulated DC, controlled by the uC. I'm not entirely sure how JAW does it - but regulated DC is the best possible solution, because electrically its much quieter than driving a high power FET. I'm going to consult with my buddy Derek to see what he thinks. Hes picked up the torch as the electronics and microcontroller guru, where as i dropped the ball sometime ago in college.

 

seems like if the microcontroller has the ability to do it, then that would be the easiest thing to do. is there a specialized part that can do this? also, do you need feedback from the sensor to monitor temp or do you heat it and just keep it heated until you turn it off? it seems like once the exhaust is hot enough, heating the sensor isn't necessary, right?

 

Thats would i would think but I have a feeling most sensors just keep powering the heater for the hell of it. Cant hurt right?

 

Heater power is controlled by the uC. In simplest of terms, the impedance Nernst Cell of the sensor is measured. this impedance correlates directly to a nominal heater temperature. so no, its not just turned on, and left on. thats the whole point of controlling the heater power. the sensor heater needs to be at a certain point and compensated for, to translate the pump current to a lambda reading.


sometimes people get away with powering the heater with a nominal 9VDC - only if they are not using a controller to read the A/F . This is enough voltage to heat the sensor enough so it does not clog the pump chamber, when still in the exhaust stream. You can't however just give it 9VDC on the H+/- and expect to get an accurate Lambda reading.

 

That sucks dude! I guess it's a good thing my girl can't drive manuals! I hope it all works out for you (totalled or not)

Edit: You guys are vultures with this poor guy's car! Already ripping it apart on him before he even knows what's happening with it!

 

Wow!
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=328391

 

-_- zzzzzzzzz....

 

hm... apparently I can just take route 20 all the way to the restaraunt tonight.. I just know that'll be packed with traffic though.. hmm

 

Not right now chief, i'm in the f ucking zone.

 

You could also take the Pike out to 495 to exit 24a (route 20)...little bit of a roundabout but may be quicker.

 

Alright I'll give that a shot, hopefully I'll make it out tonight. Probably leave around 6pmish so I'll get there around 7 with traffic. If not definitely another night.

 

checked the X out a couple times there. i think i like it but i'm not sure yet.
just a few quick pictures

 

Wow man that REALLY sucks. They may try to total it but it all looks fixable. From those pics i see a new front/rear bumper/ tailight, fender, lip, rear quarter, wing, maybe a wheel or two, maybe a control arm. It depends how much it is accessed at. A lot of the expensive stuff looks like it is fine (engine, drive train, interior stuff)

I have to say i am not happy to see the advans on there. They are pretty much a guaranteed accident in the winter.

 

the pictures don't really show it very well, the car was on it's nose in the ditch and wouldn't start, i'm not really sure what kept it from starting, but there is a lot more damage than these pictures show. hurts to look at them funny thing is, i just got it out of the shop like 3 days before this happened, a damn parked mini van jumped out in front of me on christmas night........... poor car, all kinds of bad luck

and the advans would be the reason it wasn't.........shouldn't have been driven in the snow............but she insisted on going to dance class in it