Worcester/Boston Social Thread
I appreciate it. I'm sick to my stomach just thinking about starting it...I don't want to hear what a broken motor sounds like
. Maybe I'll have Marshall start it for me while I drive around the block in the exploder 
.
I've never used that tool in my life.
Typically you don't even have to reset the tension with a new belt, the setting from the old belt is still good. I'm assuming you've already loosened the bolt in the tensioner pulley?
With that bolt loose, use a pry bar to pry up on the tensioner pulley to tighten it against the resistance of the belt. At the same time be sure that the tensioner swing arm (which contacts the piston in the hydraulic auto-tensioner) is down against the piston in the hydraulic tensioner. Tighten the bolt.
Now measure the gap between the swing arm and the hydraulic tensioner body (what you're really measuring is the amount the piston is extended above the tensioner body). If you have a set of dial calipers, use that. If not, use two drill bits for a go/no-go test. A 5/32s drill bit must fit, and a 3/16th must not fit.
If the gap is too small, loosen the bolt and repeat the procedure, this time putting less pressure on the prybar. If the gap is too wide, same thing, but do it with more pressure. You'll get it eventually. I can usually nail it by the second try now just by feel.
I know Kevin personally, and he definitely knows his stuff! I will get the tool either way, but figured the info couldn't hurt.
good luck Dave. so far mine went well, no noise or problems with the tbelt. let me know if you need any help getting everything lined up.
This is the last thing you need right now too. Boo for complications
...and hearing a car run that needs a new/reman cylinder head will drive any man to drink. And at that point where do you go...???...new/upgraded retainers/springs/porting/polishing...???
I asked Jesus politely to help you out
Dave, did you PM or get a PM from kjewer1? He said he PM'd someone about doing it without the tool, and wasn't sure if it was you. Hell I may as well just post it anyways:
I've never used that tool in my life.
Typically you don't even have to reset the tension with a new belt, the setting from the old belt is still good. I'm assuming you've already loosened the bolt in the tensioner pulley?
With that bolt loose, use a pry bar to pry up on the tensioner pulley to tighten it against the resistance of the belt. At the same time be sure that the tensioner swing arm (which contacts the piston in the hydraulic auto-tensioner) is down against the piston in the hydraulic tensioner. Tighten the bolt.
Now measure the gap between the swing arm and the hydraulic tensioner body (what you're really measuring is the amount the piston is extended above the tensioner body). If you have a set of dial calipers, use that. If not, use two drill bits for a go/no-go test. A 5/32s drill bit must fit, and a 3/16th must not fit.
If the gap is too small, loosen the bolt and repeat the procedure, this time putting less pressure on the prybar. If the gap is too wide, same thing, but do it with more pressure. You'll get it eventually. I can usually nail it by the second try now just by feel.
I know Kevin personally, and he definitely knows his stuff! I will get the tool either way, but figured the info couldn't hurt.
I've never used that tool in my life.
Typically you don't even have to reset the tension with a new belt, the setting from the old belt is still good. I'm assuming you've already loosened the bolt in the tensioner pulley?
With that bolt loose, use a pry bar to pry up on the tensioner pulley to tighten it against the resistance of the belt. At the same time be sure that the tensioner swing arm (which contacts the piston in the hydraulic auto-tensioner) is down against the piston in the hydraulic tensioner. Tighten the bolt.
Now measure the gap between the swing arm and the hydraulic tensioner body (what you're really measuring is the amount the piston is extended above the tensioner body). If you have a set of dial calipers, use that. If not, use two drill bits for a go/no-go test. A 5/32s drill bit must fit, and a 3/16th must not fit.
If the gap is too small, loosen the bolt and repeat the procedure, this time putting less pressure on the prybar. If the gap is too wide, same thing, but do it with more pressure. You'll get it eventually. I can usually nail it by the second try now just by feel.
I know Kevin personally, and he definitely knows his stuff! I will get the tool either way, but figured the info couldn't hurt.
Yeah, he's been helping me out. Really good guy.
Unlike some of the other "masters" that I'd PM'd on the forums, only to have them berate me and tell me that people should never change their own timing belts.
OK, whatever, now I'm determined to get this right.
