Philadelphia's Classiest Drunkards
Glass is in, almost done just need steering wheel and a new tune LOL. Took it out again tonight, getting use to car again, alignment isn't as bad as I said last night. I think its just these country roads, you can't get on it to much around here. The roads are really crowned and bumpy in spots, I was really focusing on how car was handling when I applied power. It seems it is real sensitive to road imperfections when aggressively getting on throttle. Just cruising it is fine on whatever surface. I think it is turning in nice from the few turns I played around with.
Bedded the brakes sort of prolly need to do the 10 stops from speed then cool 5 minutes then 10 stops then cool then 10 stops and park it overnight. Brakes are bedded after that, I only did 20 stops, so I cut it kind of short. Need to take off 2 piece rotors and put back the one piece DBA for the street with Ferrodo pads. The Carbotech pads and DBA 2 piece rotors are for the TRACK mang!
Last thing I have to cure is this annoying coolant leak right at end of hose connecting to top of radiator. It is making a little mess of course, already moved around hose clamp and hose and still is slightly leaking. I guess hose has a slight tear somewhere in that area. Will figure it out eventually, one thing after another but gots to keep on keepin on.
Bedded the brakes sort of prolly need to do the 10 stops from speed then cool 5 minutes then 10 stops then cool then 10 stops and park it overnight. Brakes are bedded after that, I only did 20 stops, so I cut it kind of short. Need to take off 2 piece rotors and put back the one piece DBA for the street with Ferrodo pads. The Carbotech pads and DBA 2 piece rotors are for the TRACK mang!
Last thing I have to cure is this annoying coolant leak right at end of hose connecting to top of radiator. It is making a little mess of course, already moved around hose clamp and hose and still is slightly leaking. I guess hose has a slight tear somewhere in that area. Will figure it out eventually, one thing after another but gots to keep on keepin on.
Last edited by Mr. MR; Mar 7, 2012 at 07:08 PM.
I replaced pads and rotors on the corolla and didn't intentionally bed in the brakes. It's funny how they behave. Today I had to get on them and didn't have the torque I was used to but as they warmed up under that hard braking action, they began to really slow the car down drastically. It's hard to decscribe but it is a noticeable and quick difference in brake torque.
True story
True story
i replaced pads and rotors on the corolla and didn't intentionally bed in the brakes. It's funny how they behave. Today i had to get on them and didn't have the torque i was used to but as they warmed up under that hard braking action, they began to really slow the car down drastically. It's hard to decscribe but it is a noticeable and quick difference in brake torque.
True story
True story
Bedding pads is just getting the pads up to operating temperature slowly the first time and letting it cool down so the resin can cure. Carbotech sell prebedded pads where they cook the pads in the oven at high temp to completely cure the resin, so you just throw them on and go. It only takes several hard barking to transfer a layer that you need.
I thought it was to transfer pad material to the rotor.
I think it's pointless to do for a street driven car. After a few sessions on the track my rotors are blue with a nice layer of material. After driving home, the rotors are half way clean.
That was my reasoning for not bedding in pads.
I think it's pointless to do for a street driven car. After a few sessions on the track my rotors are blue with a nice layer of material. After driving home, the rotors are half way clean.
That was my reasoning for not bedding in pads.
Bedding pads does 2 things according to what I have read, puts pad material on rotor surface and the heat does something to brake pad itself (chemically?). If you bed pads correctly it supposedly make them last longer. Track or street, it just depends on what the manufacturer recommends. Carbotech and Ferrodo both have directions on how to bed pads that come in box.
the main reason for bedding pads is to heat them up to operating temperature then let them cool down completely for the resin to completely cure. pad like prebedded carbotech or CL doesn't need bedded, just several moderate stop and they should transfer. CL pads are made from sintered iron which requires high pressure and heat, so there's no resin to cure. the bed in procedure is nearly the same for all pads. do several low speed braking and increase speed until you feel slight fade in the pads, all while not coming to a complete stop until the pads are cooled down.
it's difficult to bed in track pads on street with street tires and speed. street tires doesn't have the traction to get track pads up to high enough temp, while doing it safely on street. so that means you have to do it on track on the first session, go out do several laps to get the pads up to temp then come in and park the car. that means you'll waste one session. so some people will opt for prebedded pads.
track pads are very abrasive when they are cold, so when you drive on the street they will pull off all the buildup on rotors. you want a transfer layer so you have same material rubbing on each other, not hard rotor rubbing on soft pads and will wear the pads quicker.
if you swap to a different compound pad and don't do street miles to remove old transfer layers, then you might get uneven transfer of the new pads and will cause brake shutter when you brake hard (fells like warped rotors).
it's difficult to bed in track pads on street with street tires and speed. street tires doesn't have the traction to get track pads up to high enough temp, while doing it safely on street. so that means you have to do it on track on the first session, go out do several laps to get the pads up to temp then come in and park the car. that means you'll waste one session. so some people will opt for prebedded pads.
track pads are very abrasive when they are cold, so when you drive on the street they will pull off all the buildup on rotors. you want a transfer layer so you have same material rubbing on each other, not hard rotor rubbing on soft pads and will wear the pads quicker.
if you swap to a different compound pad and don't do street miles to remove old transfer layers, then you might get uneven transfer of the new pads and will cause brake shutter when you brake hard (fells like warped rotors).
****ing work never stops
woke up at 5 am to work and have endless calls. currently sitting in my x5 waiting for my next conference call in a parking lot.
subtle Ryan post
subtle bimmer post
subtle aids post
woke up at 5 am to work and have endless calls. currently sitting in my x5 waiting for my next conference call in a parking lot.
subtle Ryan post
subtle bimmer post
subtle aids post


