Philadelphia's Classiest Drunkards
We could push it with a couple of late nights, but I don't see a need to since the season is 1 event away from being over and I don't need the points.Still undecided if I'm going to run with you, in Dan's M3 again or both, lol. Do you mind if I decide by Friday? It shouldn't effect your registration at all either way.
I guess I'll let the cat outta the bag to you guys... the reason the car won't be done by Sunday is because I decided to get a little bump in displacement!
Originally I was going to just do the HG/studs and keep everything stock, but once I saw the car apart and the pistons just sitting there I thought why not do drop-in's? After some research I came to the conclusion that drop-in's wouldn't be a long term reliable solution without having the bores checked and stuff by my machine shop, which would require pulling the motor. So I figured if I'm going to pull the motor, might as well do it right and get a whole new rotating assembly and be done with it! Talk about a slippery slope.
So this is where I'm at right now... trying to decide between stroker kits and components. I'm assuming my block is still good, and I can use standard 85.5mm pistons, but the machine shop will have to verify once I get the block to them. As far as parts go, I did a little spreadsheet last night listing all the major players and it looks like the MAP GSC spec 2.2l long rod stroker kit is in lead, with AMS and Buschur right behind.
There are so many different combos out there is staggering when you try to compare them all side by side. This is why I want to stick with vendors who have been around the block and know what works and what doesn't, not just some cheap package thrown together.
This isn't going to be an all out power build. My first goal is reliability, then power. I would gladly give up some ponies in exchange for reliability... which is why I'm leaning away from a 4g64 block or a larger bore 4g63 motor. Assuming my block is still good I think keeping the bores 85.5mm or 86mm max and going with a longer rod and only a slight increase in displacement will accomplish this. Still have more research to do on rod ratios and stuff, but if anyone has input/opinion or comments about the subject I'm all ears!
Originally I was going to just do the HG/studs and keep everything stock, but once I saw the car apart and the pistons just sitting there I thought why not do drop-in's? After some research I came to the conclusion that drop-in's wouldn't be a long term reliable solution without having the bores checked and stuff by my machine shop, which would require pulling the motor. So I figured if I'm going to pull the motor, might as well do it right and get a whole new rotating assembly and be done with it! Talk about a slippery slope.
So this is where I'm at right now... trying to decide between stroker kits and components. I'm assuming my block is still good, and I can use standard 85.5mm pistons, but the machine shop will have to verify once I get the block to them. As far as parts go, I did a little spreadsheet last night listing all the major players and it looks like the MAP GSC spec 2.2l long rod stroker kit is in lead, with AMS and Buschur right behind.
There are so many different combos out there is staggering when you try to compare them all side by side. This is why I want to stick with vendors who have been around the block and know what works and what doesn't, not just some cheap package thrown together.
This isn't going to be an all out power build. My first goal is reliability, then power. I would gladly give up some ponies in exchange for reliability... which is why I'm leaning away from a 4g64 block or a larger bore 4g63 motor. Assuming my block is still good I think keeping the bores 85.5mm or 86mm max and going with a longer rod and only a slight increase in displacement will accomplish this. Still have more research to do on rod ratios and stuff, but if anyone has input/opinion or comments about the subject I'm all ears!
car def won't be done by Sunday. We could push it with a couple of late nights, but I don't see a need to since the season is 1 event away from being over and I don't need the points.
Still undecided if I'm going to run with you, in Dan's M3 again or both, lol. Do you mind if I decide by Friday? It shouldn't effect your registration at all either way.
We could push it with a couple of late nights, but I don't see a need to since the season is 1 event away from being over and I don't need the points.Still undecided if I'm going to run with you, in Dan's M3 again or both, lol. Do you mind if I decide by Friday? It shouldn't effect your registration at all either way.
I guess I'll let the cat outta the bag to you guys... the reason the car won't be done by Sunday is because I decided to get a little bump in displacement!
Originally I was going to just do the HG/studs and keep everything stock, but once I saw the car apart and the pistons just sitting there I thought why not do drop-in's? After some research I came to the conclusion that drop-in's wouldn't be a long term reliable solution without having the bores checked and stuff by my machine shop, which would require pulling the motor. So I figured if I'm going to pull the motor, might as well do it right and get a whole new rotating assembly and be done with it! Talk about a slippery slope.
So this is where I'm at right now... trying to decide between stroker kits and components. I'm assuming my block is still good, and I can use standard 85.5mm pistons, but the machine shop will have to verify once I get the block to them. As far as parts go, I did a little spreadsheet last night listing all the major players and it looks like the MAP GSC spec 2.2l long rod stroker kit is in lead, with AMS and Buschur right behind.
There are so many different combos out there is staggering when you try to compare them all side by side. This is why I want to stick with vendors who have been around the block and know what works and what doesn't, not just some cheap package thrown together.
This isn't going to be an all out power build. My first goal is reliability, then power. I would gladly give up some ponies in exchange for reliability... which is why I'm leaning away from a 4g64 block or a larger bore 4g63 motor. Assuming my block is still good I think keeping the bores 85.5mm or 86mm max and going with a longer rod and only a slight increase in displacement will accomplish this. Still have more research to do on rod ratios and stuff, but if anyone has input/opinion or comments about the subject I'm all ears!
Originally I was going to just do the HG/studs and keep everything stock, but once I saw the car apart and the pistons just sitting there I thought why not do drop-in's? After some research I came to the conclusion that drop-in's wouldn't be a long term reliable solution without having the bores checked and stuff by my machine shop, which would require pulling the motor. So I figured if I'm going to pull the motor, might as well do it right and get a whole new rotating assembly and be done with it! Talk about a slippery slope.
So this is where I'm at right now... trying to decide between stroker kits and components. I'm assuming my block is still good, and I can use standard 85.5mm pistons, but the machine shop will have to verify once I get the block to them. As far as parts go, I did a little spreadsheet last night listing all the major players and it looks like the MAP GSC spec 2.2l long rod stroker kit is in lead, with AMS and Buschur right behind.
There are so many different combos out there is staggering when you try to compare them all side by side. This is why I want to stick with vendors who have been around the block and know what works and what doesn't, not just some cheap package thrown together.
This isn't going to be an all out power build. My first goal is reliability, then power. I would gladly give up some ponies in exchange for reliability... which is why I'm leaning away from a 4g64 block or a larger bore 4g63 motor. Assuming my block is still good I think keeping the bores 85.5mm or 86mm max and going with a longer rod and only a slight increase in displacement will accomplish this. Still have more research to do on rod ratios and stuff, but if anyone has input/opinion or comments about the subject I'm all ears!
Just remember, long rod motors rev out slower. Don't think it will be an issue by any means, esp with forced induction, but something to be aware of.
what size injectors do you have in that thing,
today is a little warmer here in the 30's
but its been in the high teens the last few days and my car starts on the first try and it sleeps outside. no stutter or bs, doubt it makes a difference but i also had to adjust my throttle body on tephra v7 using the evo scan idle test so that the car would actually idle back when i was running pump because it used to stall. but doubt that has anything to do with it. lol
today is a little warmer here in the 30's
but its been in the high teens the last few days and my car starts on the first try and it sleeps outside. no stutter or bs, doubt it makes a difference but i also had to adjust my throttle body on tephra v7 using the evo scan idle test so that the car would actually idle back when i was running pump because it used to stall. but doubt that has anything to do with it. lol
Marc, give the 4G64 at least some thought. I finished machining mine last night and the plan is to start pulling my block this weekend. The new one going in the following weekend/week. The 4G64, with an Oring (what I did) or a good head gasket and head studs is as reliable as an OEM motor. Bumping a 4G63 up to a 2.3L is not. I loved mine but it was horrible replacing the crank and bearings less than 10K miles into it, and most of you see how much I baby my car. I barely pushed it at all. I've heard of a ton of people, myself included who ate bearings using off the shelf stock length rods.
Very lightly decked with an O-ring. I only need the head gasket now and it's ready. I'm doing the cylinder honing and cleaning after Tims car is done then assembly.
PTE 1200's. I've got my buddies 1000's to start just fine with only minor tweaks but mine were way overboard.
Marc, give the 4G64 at least some thought. I finished machining mine last night and the plan is to start pulling my block this weekend. The new one going in the following weekend/week. The 4G64, with an Oring (what I did) or a good head gasket and head studs is as reliable as an OEM motor. Bumping a 4G63 up to a 2.3L is not. I loved mine but it was horrible replacing the crank and bearings less than 10K miles into it, and most of you see how much I baby my car. I barely pushed it at all. I've heard of a ton of people, myself included who ate bearings using off the shelf stock length rods.
Very lightly decked with an O-ring. I only need the head gasket now and it's ready. I'm doing the cylinder honing and cleaning after Tims car is done then assembly.
Marc, give the 4G64 at least some thought. I finished machining mine last night and the plan is to start pulling my block this weekend. The new one going in the following weekend/week. The 4G64, with an Oring (what I did) or a good head gasket and head studs is as reliable as an OEM motor. Bumping a 4G63 up to a 2.3L is not. I loved mine but it was horrible replacing the crank and bearings less than 10K miles into it, and most of you see how much I baby my car. I barely pushed it at all. I've heard of a ton of people, myself included who ate bearings using off the shelf stock length rods.
Very lightly decked with an O-ring. I only need the head gasket now and it's ready. I'm doing the cylinder honing and cleaning after Tims car is done then assembly.
I'm a machinist/mechanical engineering technologist. Machining is at least half of my job. We're not really setup for engine work but we have a very nice CNC center and access to a lot of stuff. I just can't balance or do some things like align boring. Its nice but I had to wait a month before I could get some machine time in.
very cool Josh, I didn't know you also did machine work & were an ME by trade. Thanks for the input. the main thing keeping me away from the 4g64 is the lack of oil squirters. The other thing keeping me away, and I don't know if this is true or not, is that the 4g64 wasn't designed/engineered from mitsu with FI in mind... someone correct me if I'm wrong there, but I thought that block came from a hyundi (sp) or something?!? there are a lot setups out there that use the 64 block, but I don't know of anyone who road races with one. Do you think it can withstand that kind of prolonged abuse, like say a 20-30 minute flogging session 4-6 times a day?
very cool Josh, I didn't know you also did machine work & were an ME by trade. Thanks for the input. the main thing keeping me away from the 4g64 is the lack of oil squirters. The other thing keeping me away, and I don't know if this is true or not, is that the 4g64 wasn't designed/engineered from mitsu with FI in mind... someone correct me if I'm wrong there, but I thought that block came from a hyundi (sp) or something?!? there are a lot setups out there that use the 64 block, but I don't know of anyone who road races with one. Do you think it can withstand that kind of prolonged abuse, like say a 20-30 minute flogging session 4-6 times a day?
The 4g64 came in a number of cars, Hyundia included.
Until Im done with school Im just and me tech and an apprentice machinist. As for the 4g64 it is a 4g63 with a 4mm taller deck, slightly different water pump opening and no squirters. Its the same cast just machined differently and it would certainly hold up just as well as the 63. I do not run squirters and never have but Ive always ran meth injection which has a similar effect. A competent machine shop can easily machine for squirters. Its a simple tapped hole with a machined seating surface. It requires a long end mill and drill bit but several well known evo/dsm shops can do it.
Until Im done with school Im just and me tech and an apprentice machinist. As for the 4g64 it is a 4g63 with a 4mm taller deck, slightly different water pump opening and no squirters. Its the same cast just machined differently and it would certainly hold up just as well as the 63. I do not run squirters and never have but Ive always ran meth injection which has a similar effect. A competent machine shop can easily machine for squirters. Its a simple tapped hole with a machined seating surface. It requires a long end mill and drill bit but several well known evo/dsm shops can do it.
that could be the same for evos?