Philadelphia's Classiest Drunkards
I'm a machinist/mechanical engineering technologist. Machining is at least half of my job. We're not really setup for engine work but we have a very nice CNC center and access to a lot of stuff. I just can't balance or do some things like align boring. Its nice but I had to wait a month before I could get some machine time in.
I blew the HG in my car also, thinking the PCV valve not venting had something to do with it.. IT was making a loud noise but I thought it was the new injectors I put in, turns out it wasnt.. Pushed coolant at 26psi on pump gas timing
Last edited by PeteyTurbo@KHC; Nov 4, 2010 at 11:12 AM.
I've read some very BAD evidence concluding the cometic as a horrible hg. They used pressure film on the oem v cometic v the cosworth and it had horrible sealing. If I had a comp I'd look for the article. Google "cometic gasket eric hsu," and I'm sure it'll pop up
Here's a cut and paste
We’ve been doing a lot of product testing at Cosworth recently which is a good thing. Real company = real products = real research & development = real engineering. No Ebay made in China **** here man. However, just because something is made in the USA by a reputable company, it doesn’t mean that it is a quality product. You find out all kinds of things in testing.
Cosworth has been coming out with some kick *** head gaskets lately. They provide the engine builder with Japanese multi layer stainless steel quality, but priced 1/2 way in between the JDM and USDM gaskets. As we develop more applications, we have more testing to do since we must validate our designs and sometimes also check a competitor’s product. To do this, we take some expensive *** pressure film and sandwich it in between the block and head gasket. Obviously, all sealing surfaces must be perfectly flat and free of imperfections. Then we torque the head on top of everything with the head bolt/stud of choice. The pressure film creates a color coded imprint that shows how well the clamping force is distributed. Obviously you want a high clamping force around the cylinders. Of course you can’t forget the water/oil jackets either. The higher the pressure, the brighter the imprint. We’ve found some very surprising results. A leading US multi-layer stainless steel gasket manufacturer actually manufactures some pretty weak gasket designs. In some instances they are worse than stock.
Here are some results from a popular Japanese 2.0L in-line 4 cylinder iron block/aluminum head factory turbocharged engine. No names, models, or manufacturers in this blog post. You figure out which engine. If you can’t, you’re probably either a dumb **** or a non-enthusiast in which case I’m not sure why you’re reading this. Ok, here’s a hint: it’s four wheel drive. No not the one with the flat engine.
http://jdm-insider.com/Blogs/Eric/wp...10/gaskets.jpg
This test was performed with 8740 ARP 11mm studs with torque at 90 ft./lbs.
LEFT: This US made multi-layer stainless gasket has a thin sealing line around the cylinder and distortion right around the head bolts which compromises the strength seal. You’ll also see the color is dull which means the clamping force is low. The funny part is that the primary seal (immediately around the piston) is very light whereas the secondary seal (around the primary) is darker and wider. They got it reversed.
CENTER: The OEM multi-layer stainless gasket. It only needs to seal 280hp so the engineers don’t seem too concerned with with a perfect band around each cylinder. However, you can notice that the clamping force is significantly higher than the Co…(oh **** sorry, no names, huh?) the gasket on the left.
RIGHT: The best of the bunch. The sealing area around the cylinders are round, consistent, wide, and the force is the highest. What does this mean to you? Proper cylinder sealing whether your engine is stock or you’re running 40psi boost on methanol with L19/H11/MP studs.
So next time you want to save a couple bucks and buy that cheaper gasket, don’t do it. You’ll be sorry you did. At the same time, there’s no need to break the bank for that over priced JDM gasket. Remember: JDM isn’t always the best choice. Have fun in boost (if you don’t have one of the gaskets on the left)
We’ve been doing a lot of product testing at Cosworth recently which is a good thing. Real company = real products = real research & development = real engineering. No Ebay made in China **** here man. However, just because something is made in the USA by a reputable company, it doesn’t mean that it is a quality product. You find out all kinds of things in testing.
Cosworth has been coming out with some kick *** head gaskets lately. They provide the engine builder with Japanese multi layer stainless steel quality, but priced 1/2 way in between the JDM and USDM gaskets. As we develop more applications, we have more testing to do since we must validate our designs and sometimes also check a competitor’s product. To do this, we take some expensive *** pressure film and sandwich it in between the block and head gasket. Obviously, all sealing surfaces must be perfectly flat and free of imperfections. Then we torque the head on top of everything with the head bolt/stud of choice. The pressure film creates a color coded imprint that shows how well the clamping force is distributed. Obviously you want a high clamping force around the cylinders. Of course you can’t forget the water/oil jackets either. The higher the pressure, the brighter the imprint. We’ve found some very surprising results. A leading US multi-layer stainless steel gasket manufacturer actually manufactures some pretty weak gasket designs. In some instances they are worse than stock.
Here are some results from a popular Japanese 2.0L in-line 4 cylinder iron block/aluminum head factory turbocharged engine. No names, models, or manufacturers in this blog post. You figure out which engine. If you can’t, you’re probably either a dumb **** or a non-enthusiast in which case I’m not sure why you’re reading this. Ok, here’s a hint: it’s four wheel drive. No not the one with the flat engine.
http://jdm-insider.com/Blogs/Eric/wp...10/gaskets.jpg
This test was performed with 8740 ARP 11mm studs with torque at 90 ft./lbs.
LEFT: This US made multi-layer stainless gasket has a thin sealing line around the cylinder and distortion right around the head bolts which compromises the strength seal. You’ll also see the color is dull which means the clamping force is low. The funny part is that the primary seal (immediately around the piston) is very light whereas the secondary seal (around the primary) is darker and wider. They got it reversed.
CENTER: The OEM multi-layer stainless gasket. It only needs to seal 280hp so the engineers don’t seem too concerned with with a perfect band around each cylinder. However, you can notice that the clamping force is significantly higher than the Co…(oh **** sorry, no names, huh?) the gasket on the left.
RIGHT: The best of the bunch. The sealing area around the cylinders are round, consistent, wide, and the force is the highest. What does this mean to you? Proper cylinder sealing whether your engine is stock or you’re running 40psi boost on methanol with L19/H11/MP studs.
So next time you want to save a couple bucks and buy that cheaper gasket, don’t do it. You’ll be sorry you did. At the same time, there’s no need to break the bank for that over priced JDM gasket. Remember: JDM isn’t always the best choice. Have fun in boost (if you don’t have one of the gaskets on the left)
THanks Andy. they are super cheap and it would allow my to keep my good condition 4g63 block as a spare which I've always wanted to do. Josh def gave me more info to think about...
This does not make sense, at least the explanation anyway. If there is a smaller surface area and tq is the same there will be more pressure on the smaller area (cometic) and less pressure on the one with most high pressure contact area (cosworth). So I would think there would be a higher seal pressure around the cyl on the cometic..IS there any more to this article? Wheres the real R&D? lol I would love to see it..
Here's a cut and paste
We’ve been doing a lot of product testing at Cosworth recently which is a good thing. Real company = real products = real research & development = real engineering. No Ebay made in China **** here man. However, just because something is made in the USA by a reputable company, it doesn’t mean that it is a quality product. You find out all kinds of things in testing.
Cosworth has been coming out with some kick *** head gaskets lately. They provide the engine builder with Japanese multi layer stainless steel quality, but priced 1/2 way in between the JDM and USDM gaskets. As we develop more applications, we have more testing to do since we must validate our designs and sometimes also check a competitor’s product. To do this, we take some expensive *** pressure film and sandwich it in between the block and head gasket. Obviously, all sealing surfaces must be perfectly flat and free of imperfections. Then we torque the head on top of everything with the head bolt/stud of choice. The pressure film creates a color coded imprint that shows how well the clamping force is distributed. Obviously you want a high clamping force around the cylinders. Of course you can’t forget the water/oil jackets either. The higher the pressure, the brighter the imprint. We’ve found some very surprising results. A leading US multi-layer stainless steel gasket manufacturer actually manufactures some pretty weak gasket designs. In some instances they are worse than stock.
Here are some results from a popular Japanese 2.0L in-line 4 cylinder iron block/aluminum head factory turbocharged engine. No names, models, or manufacturers in this blog post. You figure out which engine. If you can’t, you’re probably either a dumb **** or a non-enthusiast in which case I’m not sure why you’re reading this. Ok, here’s a hint: it’s four wheel drive. No not the one with the flat engine.
http://jdm-insider.com/Blogs/Eric/wp...10/gaskets.jpg
This test was performed with 8740 ARP 11mm studs with torque at 90 ft./lbs.
LEFT: This US made multi-layer stainless gasket has a thin sealing line around the cylinder and distortion right around the head bolts which compromises the strength seal. You’ll also see the color is dull which means the clamping force is low. The funny part is that the primary seal (immediately around the piston) is very light whereas the secondary seal (around the primary) is darker and wider. They got it reversed.
CENTER: The OEM multi-layer stainless gasket. It only needs to seal 280hp so the engineers don’t seem too concerned with with a perfect band around each cylinder. However, you can notice that the clamping force is significantly higher than the Co…(oh **** sorry, no names, huh?) the gasket on the left.
RIGHT: The best of the bunch. The sealing area around the cylinders are round, consistent, wide, and the force is the highest. What does this mean to you? Proper cylinder sealing whether your engine is stock or you’re running 40psi boost on methanol with L19/H11/MP studs.
So next time you want to save a couple bucks and buy that cheaper gasket, don’t do it. You’ll be sorry you did. At the same time, there’s no need to break the bank for that over priced JDM gasket. Remember: JDM isn’t always the best choice. Have fun in boost (if you don’t have one of the gaskets on the left)
We’ve been doing a lot of product testing at Cosworth recently which is a good thing. Real company = real products = real research & development = real engineering. No Ebay made in China **** here man. However, just because something is made in the USA by a reputable company, it doesn’t mean that it is a quality product. You find out all kinds of things in testing.
Cosworth has been coming out with some kick *** head gaskets lately. They provide the engine builder with Japanese multi layer stainless steel quality, but priced 1/2 way in between the JDM and USDM gaskets. As we develop more applications, we have more testing to do since we must validate our designs and sometimes also check a competitor’s product. To do this, we take some expensive *** pressure film and sandwich it in between the block and head gasket. Obviously, all sealing surfaces must be perfectly flat and free of imperfections. Then we torque the head on top of everything with the head bolt/stud of choice. The pressure film creates a color coded imprint that shows how well the clamping force is distributed. Obviously you want a high clamping force around the cylinders. Of course you can’t forget the water/oil jackets either. The higher the pressure, the brighter the imprint. We’ve found some very surprising results. A leading US multi-layer stainless steel gasket manufacturer actually manufactures some pretty weak gasket designs. In some instances they are worse than stock.
Here are some results from a popular Japanese 2.0L in-line 4 cylinder iron block/aluminum head factory turbocharged engine. No names, models, or manufacturers in this blog post. You figure out which engine. If you can’t, you’re probably either a dumb **** or a non-enthusiast in which case I’m not sure why you’re reading this. Ok, here’s a hint: it’s four wheel drive. No not the one with the flat engine.
http://jdm-insider.com/Blogs/Eric/wp...10/gaskets.jpg
This test was performed with 8740 ARP 11mm studs with torque at 90 ft./lbs.
LEFT: This US made multi-layer stainless gasket has a thin sealing line around the cylinder and distortion right around the head bolts which compromises the strength seal. You’ll also see the color is dull which means the clamping force is low. The funny part is that the primary seal (immediately around the piston) is very light whereas the secondary seal (around the primary) is darker and wider. They got it reversed.
CENTER: The OEM multi-layer stainless gasket. It only needs to seal 280hp so the engineers don’t seem too concerned with with a perfect band around each cylinder. However, you can notice that the clamping force is significantly higher than the Co…(oh **** sorry, no names, huh?) the gasket on the left.
RIGHT: The best of the bunch. The sealing area around the cylinders are round, consistent, wide, and the force is the highest. What does this mean to you? Proper cylinder sealing whether your engine is stock or you’re running 40psi boost on methanol with L19/H11/MP studs.
So next time you want to save a couple bucks and buy that cheaper gasket, don’t do it. You’ll be sorry you did. At the same time, there’s no need to break the bank for that over priced JDM gasket. Remember: JDM isn’t always the best choice. Have fun in boost (if you don’t have one of the gaskets on the left)
I remember the AMS track cars removing the oil squirters to improve oil pressure. But if you think you want to build a 4G64, LESCO Race Engines has a good rep and done tons of stuff. They've already got a program to drill oil squirters into the 4G64 blocks. LESCO also does the copper ring that Cheeco mentioned as part of their machine work. It is advised for better sealing. They don't charge a ton either. Ask how I know all this!
Last edited by chu; Nov 4, 2010 at 02:03 PM.
How else would it make power? The increase in low-end power (torque) out-weights the "lag" in rev in my opinion. Anyone who has driven an STI can appreciate the low-end that the Evo is missing.
Last edited by chu; Nov 4, 2010 at 02:10 PM.
I remember the AMS track cars removing the oil squirters to improve oil pressure. But if you think you want to build a 4G64, LESCO Race Engines has a good rep and done tons of stuff. They've already got a program to drill oil squirters into the 4G64 blocks. LESCO also does the copper ring that Cheeco mentioned as part of their machine work. It is advised for better sealing. They don't charge a ton either. Ask how I know all this!
This does not make sense, at least the explanation anyway. If there is a smaller surface area and tq is the same there will be more pressure on the smaller area (cometic) and less pressure on the one with most high pressure contact area (cosworth). So I would think there would be a higher seal pressure around the cyl on the cometic..IS there any more to this article? Wheres the real R&D? lol I would love to see it..
I just recently had to replace them with cometic on an sti engine that blew them out within 100 miles. I believe i saved those so i will snap a picture of them. I



you guys said "squirter"