PCD: 2013-2014 Till We Break It Edition
so im starting my coilover install tomorrow, but i have some questions.
-should i set the front eccentric to max or min before setting the camber plates? i think min neg camber?
-will suspension swap lose rear toe settings? front should stay where its set i would think?
-i know where rear camber adjustment but how is rear toe done? service manual doesnt even show it...will it make sense when i get under there?
i picked up a smart camber gauge on ebay for 100 bucks...so im tackling the alignment myself...or at least trying.
-should i set the front eccentric to max or min before setting the camber plates? i think min neg camber?
-will suspension swap lose rear toe settings? front should stay where its set i would think?
-i know where rear camber adjustment but how is rear toe done? service manual doesnt even show it...will it make sense when i get under there?
i picked up a smart camber gauge on ebay for 100 bucks...so im tackling the alignment myself...or at least trying.
Last edited by killerpenguin21; Mar 18, 2013 at 10:52 PM.
Apparently the guy who posted that picture of the ZII's was incorrect in their wideness, one set most have been mounted and the other not.
This is taken from the OneHotLap website.
3/18/2013 UPDATE:
Clarification: Unmounted tires run wider than mounted tires, so the actual difference in width between the ZII and Z1 is probably a lot smaller than the first picture above indicates. The ZIIs are more squared off around the shoulder for a flatter overall stance, which is why they feel like they run wider and take away clearance in the wheel well.
so im starting my coilover install tomorrow, but i have some questions.
-should i set the front eccentric to max or min before setting the camber plates? i think min neg camber?
-will suspension swap lose rear toe settings? front should stay where its set i would think?
-i know where rear camber adjustment but how is rear toe done? service manual doesnt even show it...will it make sense when i get under there?
i picked up a smart camber gauge on ebay for 100 bucks...so im tackling the alignment myself...or at least trying.
-should i set the front eccentric to max or min before setting the camber plates? i think min neg camber?
-will suspension swap lose rear toe settings? front should stay where its set i would think?
-i know where rear camber adjustment but how is rear toe done? service manual doesnt even show it...will it make sense when i get under there?
i picked up a smart camber gauge on ebay for 100 bucks...so im tackling the alignment myself...or at least trying.
you should not loose the rear alignment when changing shocks, unless it lowers the car, then that would change the camber because the rear will gain negative camber as it compress. best way to do the rear is drop the lower control arm at the hub and let it swing down.
you will loose front alignment for sure. changing camber will also effect tow in the front.
Last edited by honda-guy; Mar 19, 2013 at 03:43 AM.
i would try to set the front eccentric to max as long as you have enough wheel clearance. depends on the wheels offset and size of tires you run, setting max camber at the eccentric bolt might make the tires rub the coilovers. then use the top hat to add more camber if needed.
you should not loose the rear alignment when changing shocks, unless it lowers the car, then that would change the camber because the rear will gain negative camber as it compress. best way to do the rear is drop the lower control arm at the hub and let it swing down.
you will loose front alignment for sure. changing camber will also effect tow in the front.
you should not loose the rear alignment when changing shocks, unless it lowers the car, then that would change the camber because the rear will gain negative camber as it compress. best way to do the rear is drop the lower control arm at the hub and let it swing down.
you will loose front alignment for sure. changing camber will also effect tow in the front.
So:
1. Level your floor (youtube bubble level floor to see how)
2. Need to put weight in front seat to simulate you sitting in car
3. Secure steering wheel in place (I used tie down straps to hold wheel in place
4. Set ride height of car
5. Do front camber
6. String box car
7. Set front toe
8. Set rear toe
9. Rear camber
10. Test drive and profit!
Takes me 4-8 hours usually to get an Evo set right. The rear takes the majority of time when aligning these cars IMO
I usually don't mess with rear alignment myself. I take it to the shop and tell them what I want. Rear toe is going to alwways going to be zero but im going to add more rear camber this year. I change front alignment all the time, even at the track, its easy to do.
Last edited by honda-guy; Mar 19, 2013 at 05:10 AM.
i would try to set the front eccentric to max as long as you have enough wheel clearance. depends on the wheels offset and size of tires you run, setting max camber at the eccentric bolt might make the tires rub the coilovers. then use the top hat to add more camber if needed.
Same way I did it. Paul Gerrard recommended setting the essentric bolts to max camber before adjusting with the camber plates. I've many other gurus say this, so it appears this is the best approach. It's also recommended you don't set the front height lower than 14.8 inch fender to center of wheel to avoid adversely affecting the rollcenter.
you should not loose the rear alignment when changing shocks, unless it lowers the car, then that would change the camber because the rear will gain negative camber as it compress. best way to do the rear is drop the lower control arm at the hub and let it swing down.
It's possible to do without dropping the rear LCA. Have another person help you, or a pry bar works. That's just one way I've done to save some time.
you will loose front alignment for sure. changing camber will also effect tow in the front.
TOE
Same way I did it. Paul Gerrard recommended setting the essentric bolts to max camber before adjusting with the camber plates. I've many other gurus say this, so it appears this is the best approach. It's also recommended you don't set the front height lower than 14.8 inch fender to center of wheel to avoid adversely affecting the rollcenter.
you should not loose the rear alignment when changing shocks, unless it lowers the car, then that would change the camber because the rear will gain negative camber as it compress. best way to do the rear is drop the lower control arm at the hub and let it swing down.
It's possible to do without dropping the rear LCA. Have another person help you, or a pry bar works. That's just one way I've done to save some time.
you will loose front alignment for sure. changing camber will also effect tow in the front.
TOE
Last edited by chu; Mar 19, 2013 at 05:57 AM.
Dropping the rear lower control arm is the easiest way for sure with one person doing the work. I've run 5 different sets of coilovers on evo and have remove them a dozen times. Its just one bolt near the hub and the shock will just drop right out.
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