I realize this may be a long shot but i figure it can't hurt to ask (besides the usual flames)

I was wondering if anyone in the Seattle area w/ Evo audio experience and free time would be willing to assist me install my audio stuff? I cant stand the crappy ssl sub in my trunk so I spent my tax return on a new h/u, amp, 12"sub, box, and wiring kit.

I dont mind doing the actual work but i dont have any tools, space, or experience doing this stuff and if someone could help so i dont screw anything up (i had a million headaches w/ my integra and just want things done right w/ this car) it would be greatly appreciated. will obviously be provided.

I realize there are plenty of DIY's on this site (and read thru some) and probably aint too difficult, but i'm a n00b and i would just prefer some instant feedback should i run into any issues and the comfort of someone holding my hand as i go thru this...no homo.

 

Im free Saturday and I have a garage, lots of tools, and a bit of audio install experience, so you're more than welcome to come by if you want to drive to Everett.

 

^This is an April Fool's joke - you're never free!

 

 

lol that would be so messed up if it was. I have a sub and amp I need to install too but I've been to lazy to do the wiring. I hate wiring haha

 

you are not alone! wiring is hard. all i know is black is ground and red is sometimes power! yeah!

looking at the owners manual wouldnt hurt to understand the wiring diagrams.

OP - you will need a harness to go between your stock radio harness to connect to the HU. you didnt list that in your stuff.

 

I'd be willing help some out but I am over in the Silverdale area. I used to work on the side for audio installs for awhile. As long as you don't need some custom plexi amp racks and a fiberglass enclosure most that stuff is pretty easy.

In a nut shell there is two grommets on either side of the firewall you can use for your power wire. Get 4ga just to be safe and have room if you ever want to ungrade. Install the deck with an adapter harness this will mainly evolve very little wiring (power, ground, acc) Run your interconnects from the deck to side and pop up your door sills and carpet to conceal the wiring. I would recommend mounting the box and amp together (have the amp on rubber standoffs to prevent vibration). This way both can be taken out quickly to safe weight. You can either use velcro or a small L bracket to hold the box in place. It is really pretty basic, couple screw drivers, and wire snips are all you really need.

Btw since you have SSL I think you will need one extra wire connector to connect the wiring from your factory SSL amp also.

 

Thanks for the offer! I actually haven't gotten all my stuff in yet though. I believe the last of it should be delivered by Tuesday. So...if you're free, sayy Sunday (4/11) that would be awesome, haha if not..its cool.


Oh yeah i got the Metra wire harness too.


I was debating on whether to power my speakers w/ the factory amp or just w/ the h/u (Alpine cda-105)...not sure which would be better. If i went w/ just the h/u i wouldnt have to purchase the MITAH adapter, correct? Oh and thanks for your offer too dbsears...but damn, silverdale is deeep.

 

^you should power a set of nice new speakers with a 2nd aftermarket amp, IMO. The stock speakers suck! I'm not sure how upgraded they are with the SSL package though. I would imagine that either the stock amp might do alright for the stock speakers though. Would need to compare those specs to the specs on the HU to understand better.

Derek is right about a low gauge wire. Don't go cheap there, and get something beefy to future proof yourself. If you plan to run a mini battery you might want to to think of a better alternator and/or a cap.

BTW - I'm not saying I'll help, as I don't like doing it either! It is pretty basic though, and the guide for pulling out the HVAC/radio area is pretty good! Maybe turn your install into a mod-bbq day, and hope to reel in some people with experience!

 

with what gauge wire you run it is go big or go home for sure.

 

There's a lot of information available on the internet about proper wire sizing for amperage loads.

Typical rules of thumb;
8GA - 500W - 40A max
4GA - 1000W - 80A max

A simple check on power consumption for amplifiers;
V*A=W
W/V=A
W/A=V

W = Watts
V = Volts
A = Amps

You might not know the amperage draw of a typical amplifier, but Watts law states the above formulas. For safety you can assume the fuses = maximum amperage draw. (The fuses would pop if it got higher.)


These numbers aren't from any table however, just from experience. (I used to be big into stereos when I was 18 - 21ish)

All these formulas assume 12 volts, but many amps are rated at a max of 14.4V input. The figures I posted above are based on 13V input, as it's an average.

 

I used 0/1 gauge wire on my sub install in my old lexus, powered 2 W3 12" subs with it. I always prefer overkill lol.

As for that weekend, I'm being designated (forced to work) so I wont have it off so it'll most likely be a no-go.

 

do u have a mini battery kit? if so then u might want to think about a CAP to, due to the draw on the battery.

 

thanks for the good info fellas. i found a buddy willing to help me this weekend...he says i'll owe him a video game.

 

Can someone explain to me what a CAP is?