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Old Jul 3, 2015 | 01:45 PM
  #1  
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From: Pittsburgh
from 2 Mitsus to none

... back to 2 today!

right after dropping off the OS at a friend's shop for body work, my Evo started leaking SST fluid (from cooler hose, not sure how much i lost, so didn't want to drive it.). wasn't able to get it into the shop until today.

got the Evo and the OS back a little bit ago

been driving my mom's Mercedes SLK350 - fun little car, faster than it should be with 268hp.
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Old Jul 3, 2015 | 06:36 PM
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From: Pittsburgh
before:



after:




$795. im glad to have friends that are bodymen and plumbers!
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Old Jul 3, 2015 | 07:26 PM
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From: Out towards the countryside of Dallas, TX (USA)
Originally Posted by Landshark

after:




$795
. im glad to have friends that are bodymen and plumbers!

Firstly,
Glad to hear you're back in the fold.
But, I'm sure you found a way to managed "the suffering" with that 268hp.


Now -
That repair looks quite good at this angle. How's it look straight on (like the before perspective.)


But, that price seems steep for a "friend's favor".
Factory match paint by the pint is only $55-75 max if you go with PPG. Plus, a pint of clear coat. I can't imagine it using that much paint to begin with... Even if you hit it with 5 coats of pigment.


Guess, I don't need to ask about his labor/hour.
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Old Jul 3, 2015 | 07:35 PM
  #4  
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Maybe it's a typing error. I paid $60 for a similar paint job here. But I'm not in the U.S.
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Old Jul 3, 2015 | 08:19 PM
  #5  
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From: Pittsburgh
Originally Posted by mRVRsport
Firstly,
Glad to hear you're back in the fold.
But, I'm sure you found a way to managed "the suffering" with that 268hp.
hey, im used to the Evo - the OS is her car.


Now -
That repair looks quite good at this angle. How's it look straight on (like the before perspective.)
it looks like it was never damaged.


But, that price seems steep for a "friend's favor".
Factory match paint by the pint is only $55-75 max if you go with PPG. Plus, a pint of clear coat. I can't imagine it using that much paint to begin with... Even if you hit it with 5 coats of pigment.
Guess, I don't need to ask about his labor/hour.
:huh: that would be at least a $1500 job anywhere else. i wasnt taking a brand new car to MAACO for the $299 special. those werent scratches that could be buffed out.



Last edited by Landshark; Jul 3, 2015 at 08:22 PM.
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Old Jul 3, 2015 | 08:36 PM
  #6  
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From: Out towards the countryside of Dallas, TX (USA)
Originally Posted by Landshark
hey, im used to the Evo - the OS is her car.




it looks like it was never damaged.




:huh: that would be at least a $1500 job anywhere else. i wasnt taking a brand new car to MAACO for the $299 special. those werent scratches that could be buffed out.



Oh dear god..
why?


There is absolutely no need to grind down to bare sheet metal and repair like that for just those 1 & half dings.


PDR costs $90.
Then prep, prime and paint (of costs I mentioned above) to just those original areas of blemish.
Granted if you bake the paint in the oven for a hour, it'll cost $200 or so. Still wouldn't cost half the price of your friend's. (And, no I'm not talking about letting Maaaaco do it.)


But, NO for $1500.. when there's no structural damage, just some warpage in the sheet metal.


Okay look, I'm not trying to ruin your holiday weekend.
But, please next time get a few more quotes when it comes to body work.
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Old Jul 3, 2015 | 11:30 PM
  #7  
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From: Western Canada
Up here $800 US would be a steal. Similar damage on my son's Subaru - a very decent body shop quoted $2300 CAD (~1800 US). I tell my kids: you get a scratch that the paintless dent repair or Micropaint guys can't fix and it is a grand CAD per panel or door.

As for the amount of effort put into the prep, I guess it depends if you want it done, or done right. That looks like it will outlast the Mits warranty.
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Old Jul 4, 2015 | 12:18 AM
  #8  
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From: Out towards the countryside of Dallas, TX (USA)
Originally Posted by CottageLifer
Up here $800 US would be a steal. Similar damage on my son's Subaru - a very decent body shop quoted $2300 CAD (~1800 US). I tell my kids: you get a scratch that the paintless dent repair or Micropaint guys can't fix and it is a grand CAD per panel or door.

As for the amount of effort put into the prep, I guess it depends if you want it done, or done right. That looks like it will outlast the Mits warranty.
I have no doubt the prep that went into that repair will last. It looks good.

But, was it necessary? Please compare the original photo of damages and the photo of the "repair area".
It grew! There's about a 4" tall dent right about the wheel arch right at the door seam, now compared to the 2nd photo - they've prepped & feather all the way up to the belt line and then some.

It's charging the customer more "work-hours" for something that could have been done more efficiently and without grinding off SO much of the original factory e-coat, primer, and pigment...


Plus, there's no photos of the dent(s) being pulled back out.
Just a large area that's already "filled" with plastic(bondo) and primer-ed.
In fact, I can see a fairly distinct area where the filler is thicker right at the area where the original dent is located.

Last edited by mRVRsport; Jul 4, 2015 at 12:31 AM.
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Old Jul 4, 2015 | 04:09 AM
  #9  
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From: Pittsburgh
Originally Posted by mRVRsport
I have no doubt the prep that went into that repair will last. It looks good.

But, was it necessary? Please compare the original photo of damages and the photo of the "repair area".
It grew! There's about a 4" tall dent right about the wheel arch right at the door seam, now compared to the 2nd photo - they've prepped & feather all the way up to the belt line and then some.

It's charging the customer more "work-hours" for something that could have been done more efficiently and without grinding off SO much of the original factory e-coat, primer, and pigment...


Plus, there's no photos of the dent(s) being pulled back out.
Just a large area that's already "filled" with plastic(bondo) and primer-ed.
In fact, I can see a fairly distinct area where the filler is thicker right at the area where the original dent is located.

i don't think the "before" photo clearly shows how bad it was - i guess the photo looks like some minor scrapes. angle of the photo and color of the car don't help my case. in reality, it was the OS vs. a concrete block wall. it already *was* down to bare metal before any repairs! its feathered so it *blends* in and doesn't look like a repair. you would never know anything was ever wrong with it.

perhaps body work is cheaper in Dallas with illegal, err... i mean, undocumented workers, but i can assure you i got a screaming bargain. i had a similar, but slightly worse accident in a previous car when an old lady sideswiped me while i was parked. it was well over $3000 (didn't have to pay for that one, though )
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Old Jul 4, 2015 | 06:46 AM
  #10  
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From: Out towards the countryside of Dallas, TX (USA)
Originally Posted by Landshark
i don't think the "before" photo clearly shows how bad it was - i guess the photo looks like some minor scrapes. angle of the photo and color of the car don't help my case. in reality, it was the OS vs. a concrete block wall. it already *was* down to bare metal before any repairs! its feathered so it *blends* in and doesn't look like a repair. you would never know anything was ever wrong with it.

perhaps body work is cheaper in Dallas with illegal, err... i mean, undocumented workers, but i can assure you i got a screaming bargain. i had a similar, but slightly worse accident in a previous car when an old lady sideswiped me while i was parked. it was well over $3000 (didn't have to pay for that one, though )


I hear ya.
And, without me seeing the damage in person.
I will definitely differ to your analysis.


Are you calling me undocumented? That's a first.
No, I've never implied the use of "illegal" labor.
There are just more economic methods to repairing some minor body damage.


And, yes I have no doubt some shops will charge $3,000+ for a fender/bumper repair when they know they can fleece that amount out of insurance companies. (& I wonder why insurance premiums are so high, these days?)
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Old Jul 4, 2015 | 06:48 AM
  #11  
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As far as going down to bare metal ...bondo doesn't like to stick to paint as well as "properly " sanded metal . I very seldom use a bondo over painted surfaces , spot putty yes.
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Old Jul 4, 2015 | 07:46 AM
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Right you are on the insurance thing. Had it been a claim, there would have been WAY more R&R. Up here 30-50% is the insurance "premium". Just ask for a cash settlement next; they usually give 60%. FOr which you can often get the repair done and still have beer money.
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Old Jul 4, 2015 | 08:42 AM
  #13  
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From: Pittsburgh
Originally Posted by CottageLifer
Right you are on the insurance thing. Had it been a claim, there would have been WAY more R&R. Up here 30-50% is the insurance "premium". Just ask for a cash settlement next; they usually give 60%. FOr which you can often get the repair done and still have beer money.

just glad to have it back.

getting the Evo back, said it needed pads & rotors (already have the pads sitting in the garage).

$700 *each* for factory front rotors Service guy even said its ridiculous and to go aftermarket.

ordered a *pair* of Powerslot rotors for $250
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Old Jul 4, 2015 | 09:30 AM
  #14  
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From: Out towards the countryside of Dallas, TX (USA)
Originally Posted by Landshark
just glad to have it back.

getting the Evo back, said it needed pads & rotors (already have the pads sitting in the garage).

$700 *each* for factory front rotors Service guy even said its ridiculous and to go aftermarket.

ordered a *pair* of Powerslot rotors for $250
Now that's a good deal.


Happy 4th!
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Old Jul 4, 2015 | 09:41 AM
  #15  
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From: Pittsburgh
Originally Posted by mRVRsport
Now that's a good deal.


Happy 4th!

and to you, too!
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