And it threw the ABS code again this AM. Activated the check engine light. Dang! Since I am planning to put the summer tires on I guess I will check the speed sensors, but I am not hopeful. Sure hate the idea of taking it to the dealer!

 

Doing a bit more digging on this code, and it _seems_ that it _might_ be the LR Drive solenoid. Which, if it not just s simple speed sensor means it is covered under the 10 year power train warranty. I can only hope. Minimum charge from the dealer to do diagnostics is $147.50 CAD. Imagine...

 

I also found similar things as you did: 1773 is not a universal DTC. It could mean different things in the nomenclature of different manufacturers. If the scanning tool you used was specific to a brand (like our MUT III for Mitsubishi) it could assign this code.
Apparently, scanning with MUT III would give you "AT/CVT/A-MT/TC-SST ". Read this thread as it deals with the same two problems simultaneously:
http://mitsubishiforum.com/forum/mit...r-p1773-45616/
This here would indicate a CVT triggered ABS sensor going off synchronization:
http://mitsubishiforum.com/forum/mit...e-p1773-35552/. You might be lucky and get covered by the powertrain warranty. Good luck

 

Found an independant who says he can read the true MITS code. Going tomorrow. If that fails, it will off to the dealer. But $150 to just read the damn code? Seriously?? Ugh. And yeah, PT warranty coverage would be nice.

 

I hate to remind you that Actia/Diagbox/ETACS Decoder is much cheaper than $150
It would cost you somewhere between $30 and $80 depending on which interface you bought (plus some evening reading, I admit). How many dealers you have in your neighbourhood? If more than one I would try comparative shopping.

 

Yeah, I know about the ETACS option. I might try to hunt out a current owner near me and see if they would read the code. If it is power train related, everything including the diagnosis is covered. If not... gulp!

 

Oh yeah - two dealers here: the one I have lined up is the better and cheaper of the two.

 

Update: Codes are in.

DTC C1200: Abnormality in FL/RR wheel cut valve system
DTC C1204: Abnormality in FR/RL wheel cut valve system
DTC C2104: Faulty valve power supply circuit
DTC C2200: Abnormality in ASC-ECU

The tech figures 2104 is the issue and causing the follow on codes. Could be as simple as a fusible link or the ECU which could cost a ton. Just off warranty and likely not covered by powertrain. One post I read said a bad alternator could cause this?

Anyone??

 

Here is a suggestion from Honda Accord Forum (the symptoms are similar but not identical as yours):
http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/15...ble-codes.html

 

If the previous hint does not work (or regardless), perform a load test and check how tight the alternator belt is. If your alternator is failing you must have noticed the tell tale signs (dimmed lights, whining sound upon revving the engine etc.)

 

Thanks for tip but I already checked that. battery is 13.6 at rest (after driving a bit but was ok cold) and 15.8 with car running. In spec AFAIK. I am kinda POed that this is happening just out of warranty so I may let the dealer look at it and then press Mits Canada to at least cover part of the repair. Can't get to the dealer till next week. Ditto for decent independents up here.

 

I assume it is a typo. 12.6V at rest and 13.8V when the car is running.

 

Rechecked: 13.19 at rest and 15.66 with car running, across battery terminals.

 

These numbers look too high to me. While measuring the voltage is just informative, a fully charged battery would have the voltage of 12.6-12.7V (as you reported earlier in post #12) without the engine running and with running some 14.6 V max. It looks that your alternator is overcharging the battery.

 

Just tested my son's Subaru Firester: 13.6 and 16.02! Maybe my DVM's battery is off? LOL