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SOLVED! "Check Engine Light" is On

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Old Apr 26, 2016 | 07:34 PM
  #31  
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LOL... This just in: tried a brand new 9v cell - it measure 10.38 v! OBVIOUSLY my DVM needs a tuneup! I have a nice old mechanical one I will use for a retest of the Mits battery/
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Old Apr 26, 2016 | 07:39 PM
  #32  
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OK> Once you find a working multimeter try this to test the alternator:
httphttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LGB6ZEjGm7Q://
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Old Apr 26, 2016 | 07:42 PM
  #33  
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Analog VM is far closer. Old skool rulz! I still think I have an ABS issue. Ugh.
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Old Apr 28, 2016 | 08:31 AM
  #34  
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Here is something else to read. Since you have the service manual read page 35C-218 and onward.
"Inspection procedure 6: ABS warning light stays on after the engine is started"
If your problem has not been fixed yet it may be warranted to spend the $150 for diagnosis with MUT III.
Attached Thumbnails SOLVED!  "Check Engine Light" is On-abs_light_stays-.jpg  
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Old Apr 28, 2016 | 08:41 AM
  #35  
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Yeah, thanks but I've read all that stuff and lacking a MUTS or equivalent scan tool, it is pretty hard to debug. I am going to get a second opinion on the alternator/batter just to be sure. I sure a heck hope it is not an ECM! Those things are pricey. They have to come from freaking Japan! And geez - not even 40,000 miles on my car. If the repair is astronomical I will look to Mits Canada since I am JUST out of warranty. There is no way such a life/safety system should fail. My POS Chryco Dodge van, with all its troubles, never gave me concerns for my family's safety.
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Old Apr 28, 2016 | 12:42 PM
  #36  
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Ok - more data. Tried a few more alternator battery tests but decided to use a proper device: Midtronics MDX-650

Results are "interesting".
- Only 354 CA - machine says to replace battery (!)
- cranking 11.44v @3.86 sec
- charging test is where it gets "interesting": "excessive ripple" was recorded with 14.47 v on no load and 14.46 with load.

Looking up "excessive ripple" on the interwebs, it is said to represent a bad alternator/regulator. Which might be the reason for codes as one of them is based on inadequate power to ECU

And another tidbit. Drove it twice today. First time, everything lit up (ABS, ASC etc.) Second time I drove for about 15 minutes before all the warnings went off.

Curiouser and curiouser....
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Old Apr 28, 2016 | 02:07 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by CottageLifer
LOL... This just in: tried a brand new 9v cell - it measure 10.38 v! OBVIOUSLY my DVM needs a tuneup!

you bought that DVM on Aliexpress, didn't you?
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Old Apr 28, 2016 | 02:41 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by Landshark
you bought that DVM on Aliexpress, didn't you?
Actually no. It is a Craftsman. Was a decent unit.
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Old Apr 29, 2016 | 05:57 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by CottageLifer
Actually no. It is a Craftsman. Was a decent unit.
ok.

i have a nice benchtop muiltimeter, but the one i use the most is a little pocket one i got from Radio Shack years ago.

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Old Apr 29, 2016 | 06:56 AM
  #40  
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Yeah, that old RS stuff was decent. Not any more...
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Old Apr 29, 2016 | 07:34 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by CottageLifer
Ok - more data. Tried a few more alternator battery tests but decided to use a proper device: Midtronics MDX-650

Results are "interesting".
- Only 354 CA - machine says to replace battery (!)
- cranking 11.44v @3.86 sec
- charging test is where it gets "interesting": "excessive ripple" was recorded with 14.47 v on no load and 14.46 with load.

Looking up "excessive ripple" on the interwebs, it is said to represent a bad alternator/regulator. Which might be the reason for codes as one of them is based on inadequate power to ECU

And another tidbit. Drove it twice today. First time, everything lit up (ABS, ASC etc.) Second time I drove for about 15 minutes before all the warnings went off.

Curiouser and curiouser....
It really does look like it's a battery problem... BUT, it more than likely originated from a faulty/failing alternator.

Look here > https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ou...l#post11539782 (Post#19)

My dealer replaced my alternator - without even me asking for it. They must have seen/known about it (something was wrong.)
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Old Apr 29, 2016 | 07:49 AM
  #42  
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I recall that thread... Hopefully an alternator is a fix. That might be a tolerable cost although armed with the TSB I might have a fighting chance of Mits covering the cost?
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Old May 2, 2016 | 07:39 AM
  #43  
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Can you give us an update? Is everything back to normal after the battery change? Thanks.
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Old May 2, 2016 | 10:48 AM
  #44  
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Well, the battery change got rid of the OEM poor battery but alas, as feared, the problem is MUCH larger. So larger even the service tech can't recall it appearing. Turns out the hydraulic unit is shot.

ABS Hydraulic Assembly. ABS Modulator. Modulator. MODULATOR VALVE.
Part Number: 4670A846
Incl.Accumulator,Proportioning Valve,Pump Motor

That little bad boy will cost me $3353 + tax. And about $500 for dealer labour. Un-faqing-real! I have a call into Mitsubishi to see if they will do something about this and help me out. I mean this is a life/safety issue and the safety is one of the main reasons I bought this thing in the first place. 67,000 kms on it and this fails.

If Mits Canada can't help me out I will get the part from somewhere else, and then trade the damn thing in for something newer. Un-f'ing-real.... Even my POS Chryco vans never failed this way.
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Old May 2, 2016 | 11:26 AM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by CottageLifer
Well, the battery change got rid of the OEM poor battery but alas, as feared, the problem is MUCH larger. So larger even the service tech can't recall it appearing. Turns out the hydraulic unit is shot.

ABS Hydraulic Assembly. ABS Modulator. Modulator. MODULATOR VALVE.
Part Number: 4670A846
Incl.Accumulator,Proportioning Valve,Pump Motor

That little bad boy will cost me $3353 + tax. And about $500 for dealer labour. Un-faqing-real! I have a call into Mitsubishi to see if they will do something about this and help me out. I mean this is a life/safety issue and the safety is one of the main reasons I bought this thing in the first place. 67,000 kms on it and this fails.

If Mits Canada can't help me out I will get the part from somewhere else, and then trade the damn thing in for something newer. Un-f'ing-real.... Even my POS Chryco vans never failed this way.
Ouch! I never heard this item to fail. The price you mentioned is also outrageous ( 1/4 of the current value of the car). For these two reasons I would also look for a used item from a written off (totalled) RVR or Lancer (provided it is compatible) if Mitsubishi Canada is not cooperating. I am sorry for your ordeal, this seems surreal.
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