Pretty sure that there is more than 2 hoses and a connector. At least looking at at. And yes, brake bleed is needed. Reprogramming by dealer for a new unit. Only the ecutesting.com refurb would allow skipping the reprogramming. Of course the issue with refurb is getting it in and out and bleeding which is above my pay grade.

And yes, you should have kept that ABS unit! LOL

 

Hey hope you guys in Canada are okay..
Just heard about a massive forest fire y'all are having to contend with up there.
Mandatory Evac!!

 

Not necessarily. Only if you want to swap the entire unit as a whole. It has two parts: the ECU part and the hydraulic pump (see the color coded arrows in the attached image from 35C-277).
If you opt for replacing just the hydraulic unit there is no need for reprogramming the ECU (so there is another way to avoid reprogramming other than ecutesting.com. If you opt for replacing the entire unit due to the different ASC/TC algorythm in the ECU make sure you get it from an AWC vehicle.
The replacement of the hydraulic unit only does not seem to be a very difficult job as mRVRsport mentioned:
If you do not want to do it yourself, I am sure a decent, trusted mechanic of yours could do it, including the brake fluid bleeding. Just give him the 35C-277 section from the service manual. I still think a relatively new junkie part is the way to go, if you want the most economical solution.
There are several DIY videos posted on Youtube for ABS hydraulic unit replacement for reference.

 

I'm still mulling options on repair, but in my case, there is a cut valve issue reported. Does that mean the issue is the ECU falsely reporting an error or the pump itself has valve issues and the ECU is reporting correctly? I noticed that on ecutesting.com they show full units and ask for both components, ostensibly to test/repair both.

II do have a very good independent mechanic who will do the R&R but of course the dealer would be involved if the ECU needed reprogramming. Which, by the way is not much according to my research so far. Add the VIN and the drive type and that is about it. Nothing really fancy as I understand it.

I did discover that Mits repaired the BCM on warranty in 2013 on this car so who now knows if THAT is involved? WTH? Although no other codes point to any issue other than the ABS system. That is sort of leading me to consider using the lowest cost dealer as mentioned earlier in case the part swap does not fix it. Of course if I do an ECU refurb I'd only be out a few hundred bucks.

I've found a number of ABS repair places and have emailed them. I will start another thread onmy findings. Thankfully there should not be much call for ABS until the snow flies. So I have time to sort this.

 

I do not think, based on the information available, we could decide this.
BCM failure can throw all kinds of DTCs including ABS, DSC, and Airbag failure.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2rudYtZUahQ

 

Yeah, therein lies the rub. I would like to think that, as bad as it is, it is "just" the ABS unit and/or ABS ECU. If it is a recurrence of the old one, replacing the ABS unit gets me nowhere but out of pocket, especially if the lights reappear. At least the BCM is easily repairable (and not a dealer cost). WHat I find strange is how the thing was taken care of (I have recently confirmed that ALL the servicing was done at two dealers - no Mr. Lube or shadetree stuff). But that ghost of BCMs past is hanging out there...

And if it was the BCM don't you think there would be more/other codes? This is classic ABS as per section 35 of the shop manual.

 

Thankfully my RVR does not behave like that car in the video!

 

In your first post you were referring to a service engine soon/check engine light besides ABS/ASC if I remember correctly. Also, I seem to remember you lost your radio channels at some point but I might be mistaken. My memory fades here a bit.

 

^
That car is Possessed!
wow, I wish it was that easy to make a vehicle go from 0-55MPH just by flipping the turn signal. ha ha

 

The check engine light CEL P1773 comes on with any of the ABS/ASC etc. issues according to the manual. The radio thing was kids playing...

Looking at the diagnostic procs for ABS and ASC (TSB Revision 35C-140 and 35C-119) it sure points to the ABS/ECU as being the issue. Assuming the CANBUS checks were done correctly.

The slight niggling doubt about other issues like the ghosts of the past, are making me consider a dealer fix. I am still waiting to hear back from ecutesting.com if they can do anything for me. Like I said before, I'd hate to drop a new US-sourced ABS/ECU and run up 16-1800 bcuks and not have a fix. And be stuck with an extra unit.

 

Have you got the actuator test done, when you took the car to get the codes (as per 35C-260)? It is really the only way to know for sure what the defective item is (ECU or the pump)

UPDATE: Disregard my question, it could have not happened because the system went to a fail-safe mode.

 

Great idea EXCEPT - "When ASC-ECU is disabled due to the fail-safe
function, the actuator test cannot be performed." And it is in fail-safe mode. ASC is off and the dash switch won't turn it on due to failsafe. Everything right now seems to point to the ASC-ECU and possible the hydraulic portion. C2200 and C1200

I really do appreciate you sticking around to try and help!

 

Re-reading 35C for the upteenth time I noticed that post-replacement of the hydraulic unit requires resetting the sensors. No VIN required etc. as I was told.But it does need the MUTS tool so maybe that is what the dealer was talking about. I might drive by there and talk to them again so that no matter what route I choose to go if I need to have them do something special, it is no big deal like they said. Half an hour - like $80 CAD

 

Yes, I realized that soon after posting my question.

 

No thanks are needed. Anyone of us could be the next victim (every warranty will also expire on one day) unless we figure out how to avoid and fix it in an economically feasible way.