SOLVED! "Check Engine Light" is On
Yeah, that is what the tech said too. The car is MINT and fun, but this failure is unacceptable as is the fixing cost. Hopefully Mits Canada will help. Oh, the tech said that since the ECU is part of the actuator, you cannot use a junker. Must be new (but I think he is full of it). I have already found new OEM parts like this in the US for a FRACTION of the cost and am just waiting to hear back on shipping.
I am pissed off beyond belief and when I fix it it will be sold. Someone is gonna get a cherry RVR; I'll buy a Toyota. Or a Kia. Or a Mazda. Pretty much anything except a Mits or a Chrysler.
I am pissed off beyond belief and when I fix it it will be sold. Someone is gonna get a cherry RVR; I'll buy a Toyota. Or a Kia. Or a Mazda. Pretty much anything except a Mits or a Chrysler.
Evolved Member
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 2,740
Likes: 27
From: Out towards the countryside of Dallas, TX (USA)
Well, the battery change got rid of the OEM poor battery but alas, as feared, the problem is MUCH larger. So larger even the service tech can't recall it appearing. Turns out the hydraulic unit is shot.
ABS Hydraulic Assembly. ABS Modulator. Modulator. MODULATOR VALVE.
Part Number: 4670A846
Incl.Accumulator,Proportioning Valve,Pump Motor
That little bad boy will cost me $3353 + tax. And about $500 for dealer labour. Un-faqing-real! I have a call into Mitsubishi to see if they will do something about this and help me out. I mean this is a life/safety issue and the safety is one of the main reasons I bought this thing in the first place. 67,000 kms on it and this fails.
If Mits Canada can't help me out I will get the part from somewhere else, and then trade the damn thing in for something newer. Un-f'ing-real.... Even my POS Chryco vans never failed this way.
ABS Hydraulic Assembly. ABS Modulator. Modulator. MODULATOR VALVE.
Part Number: 4670A846
Incl.Accumulator,Proportioning Valve,Pump Motor
That little bad boy will cost me $3353 + tax. And about $500 for dealer labour. Un-faqing-real! I have a call into Mitsubishi to see if they will do something about this and help me out. I mean this is a life/safety issue and the safety is one of the main reasons I bought this thing in the first place. 67,000 kms on it and this fails.
If Mits Canada can't help me out I will get the part from somewhere else, and then trade the damn thing in for something newer. Un-f'ing-real.... Even my POS Chryco vans never failed this way.
Take a breather and have a beer.
Sounds like they're giving you the extra Extra mark-up on parts (by 2,500%

From what I know, dealerships loves to "Load up" on the repair bill - basically give the customer a long laundry list of "related items" to fix when they themselves know that the customer have NO WAY of figuring what's actually needed or not, or being able to do the repair(s) on their own. And, this also pads their up sale service - even if the customer decides to "do only a few" of the repairs now and wait to fix the rest later.
Those list of parts they threw at you could be all a part of an ABS Kit (or all in one unit) So, the repair could just involve swapping out one single part.
Now if you're the capable DIY type, then all you have to do ask them to provide you with a Detailed list of the parts SKUs and see if those items they said are really individual items needing to be fix/replaced or really just one unit.
Last edited by mRVRsport; May 2, 2016 at 01:01 PM.
No, it is a single part. The hydraulic unit/ECM. It is still throwing codes C2200 ECU internal error and C2200 - FL/RR Cut valve. ABS Hydraulic unit requires replacement as per TIR. All the CANBUS stuff checked out. While rare, this problem is apparently not unknown.
What is unknown to me is why Mits Canada charges almost 3 and a half times as much as US dealers for this part. And funnier yet, I can get it installed at an import specialist for about half the dealer cost EXCEPT that the ECU needs programming at the dealer. The dealer just told me it would be 80-100 bucks to do that. So the whole repair if I source the part from a US Mits dealer is about 1500 CAD as opposed to about $4200 CAD (and the dealer even does part of the work!)
Or I can drive across the border (500 miles) and have a US dealer do it all in one fell swoop. Going to look at that as an option if Mitsubishi Canada does not step up. I am not holding my breath...
What is unknown to me is why Mits Canada charges almost 3 and a half times as much as US dealers for this part. And funnier yet, I can get it installed at an import specialist for about half the dealer cost EXCEPT that the ECU needs programming at the dealer. The dealer just told me it would be 80-100 bucks to do that. So the whole repair if I source the part from a US Mits dealer is about 1500 CAD as opposed to about $4200 CAD (and the dealer even does part of the work!)
Or I can drive across the border (500 miles) and have a US dealer do it all in one fell swoop. Going to look at that as an option if Mitsubishi Canada does not step up. I am not holding my breath...
Evolved Member
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 2,740
Likes: 27
From: Out towards the countryside of Dallas, TX (USA)
Yeah, that is what the tech said too. The car is MINT and fun, but this failure is unacceptable as is the fixing cost. Hopefully Mits Canada will help. Oh, the tech said that since the ECU is part of the actuator, you cannot use a junker. Must be new (but I think he is full of it). I have already found new OEM parts like this in the US for a FRACTION of the cost and am just waiting to hear back on shipping.
I am pissed off beyond belief and when I fix it it will be sold. Someone is gonna get a cherry RVR; I'll buy a Toyota. Or a Kia. Or a Mazda. Pretty much anything except a Mits or a Chrysler.
I am pissed off beyond belief and when I fix it it will be sold. Someone is gonna get a cherry RVR; I'll buy a Toyota. Or a Kia. Or a Mazda. Pretty much anything except a Mits or a Chrysler.
I'm still leery of those Kia's.. their motors seem to rattle/shake in the engine-bay even just idling in the dealer parking lots.
Toyota's... doesn't see to give you much for your money now a days.
Evolved Member
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 2,740
Likes: 27
From: Out towards the countryside of Dallas, TX (USA)
Okay, like I said. So why did they break it down to so many different part names to begin with? Make it sound like there's so many more parts involved when in reality it's just ONE part.
They like to play mind games..?
They like to play mind games..?
Forgive me for not swallowing this pill just yet. Can you ask for a second opinion? If I am not mistaken you mentioned that you have a second dealer in your area. Also, if the hydraulic unit is not working properly, the ABS/ASC should not work. Have you tried to force the ABS and the ASC to engage? Hard braking and hard acceleration on a loose gravel or so would give you some answer.
Already did those tests. Panic stop was no ABS. Locked em up nicely though. We have another dealer but I am NOT paying another diagnostic charge!!! Also, teh ASC cannot be switched off; it is in failsafe mode.
Well, if ABS does not work then there is no reason for another diagnostic test indeed.
Evolved Member
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 2,740
Likes: 27
From: Out towards the countryside of Dallas, TX (USA)
Forgive me for not swallowing this pill just yet. Can you ask for a second opinion? If I am not mistaken you mentioned that you have a second dealer in your area. Also, if the hydraulic unit is not working properly, the ABS/ASC should not work. Have you tried to force the ABS and the ASC to engage? Hard braking and hard acceleration on a loose gravel or so would give you some answer.
Definitely keep us posted!
Since nobody around has experienced the hydraulic control unit to fail I assume it MIGHT have happened due to an improper service procedure.
To strengthen your case I suggest to go through your service bills and check whether they changed the brake pads or bled/flushed the brake fluids recently. During these procedures they may have inadvertently forced contaminated brake fluid to flow backwards into the hydraulic unit:
http://my.cardone.com/techdocs/PT%2012-0001.pdf
http://www.passatworld.com/forums/b5...ce-manual.html
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/...-flush.424274/
http://www.cargurus.com/Cars/Discussion-t6798_ds555457
http://www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/po...ex.htm?t=58702
If indicated on the bill check whether they put the correct brake fluid. ABS failure due to improper flush happens in many vehicles regardless of the make. I suspect something similar may have happened to you.
These are my desperate attempts to save you from the burden of long travel and insane expenses and from the disappointment in Mitsubishi vehicles.
To strengthen your case I suggest to go through your service bills and check whether they changed the brake pads or bled/flushed the brake fluids recently. During these procedures they may have inadvertently forced contaminated brake fluid to flow backwards into the hydraulic unit:
http://my.cardone.com/techdocs/PT%2012-0001.pdf
http://www.passatworld.com/forums/b5...ce-manual.html
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/...-flush.424274/
http://www.cargurus.com/Cars/Discussion-t6798_ds555457
http://www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/po...ex.htm?t=58702
If indicated on the bill check whether they put the correct brake fluid. ABS failure due to improper flush happens in many vehicles regardless of the make. I suspect something similar may have happened to you.
These are my desperate attempts to save you from the burden of long travel and insane expenses and from the disappointment in Mitsubishi vehicles.
Last edited by AWCAWD; May 3, 2016 at 06:53 AM. Reason: Some more links regardless of make
Since nobody around has experienced the hydraulic control unit to fail I assume it MIGHT have happened due to an improper service procedure.
To strengthen your case I suggest to go through your service bills and check whether they changed the brake pads or bled/flushed the brake fluids recently. During these procedures they may have inadvertently forced contaminated brake fluid to flow backwards into the hydraulic unit:
http://my.cardone.com/techdocs/PT%2012-0001.pdf
If indicated on the bill check whether they put the correct brake fluid.
These are my desperate attempts to save you from the burden of long travel and insane expenses and from the disappointment in Mitsubishi vehicles.
To strengthen your case I suggest to go through your service bills and check whether they changed the brake pads or bled/flushed the brake fluids recently. During these procedures they may have inadvertently forced contaminated brake fluid to flow backwards into the hydraulic unit:
http://my.cardone.com/techdocs/PT%2012-0001.pdf
If indicated on the bill check whether they put the correct brake fluid.
These are my desperate attempts to save you from the burden of long travel and insane expenses and from the disappointment in Mitsubishi vehicles.
Interesting thing about these things: a search shows that some Mits vehicles (like the Eclipse) have had this issue. But only the older ones. And one of the largest dealers in the US has told me they have NEVER replaced the ABS modulator in an OS/RVR. Lucky me...
Thanks for the help/advice. I will reserve my disappointment on MIts until I hear back from them. But one way or another, I have to fix it; can't even sell it or trade it in the way it is... and if that means driving to Spokane so be it. And it is a tough one - get a dealer to do it in the US and HOPE that they do it right, or do it locally and hope the dealer will reprogram it after someone else installs it. (I did not ask if the dealer would install a Mits part if *I* brought it, but I doubt it! LOL)


