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Old Oct 28, 2008 | 09:09 PM
  #4006  
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From: kent wa
Originally Posted by GTisRule
I'll Quote my disclaimer;
u crack me up man
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Old Oct 28, 2008 | 09:11 PM
  #4007  
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From: Tacoma, Washington
jake dont forget add Forced performance WGA! it will help hold more boost!
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Old Oct 28, 2008 | 09:34 PM
  #4008  
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From: Seattle
If your car is low because of coilovers / lowering spring, which is easier to bring the car up, jacking it or using a ramp?

Thanks.
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Old Oct 28, 2008 | 09:39 PM
  #4009  
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From: Redmond - Lake Tapps ,WA
Originally Posted by GTisRule
I'll definitely have to take you up on a ride Binary, to see how they feel in a like car. I'd like to maintain some sort of a rear bar just for suspension tuning, adjustments on the bars at the track are a hell of a lot easier than modifying spring rates on coil overs, especially if a car's been tuned correctly for weight bias.

You're right on the traction thing on the sway bars, they actually push on the lifting side, forcing the tire to the ground, but the actual process to function takes a book to explain, instead of a paragraph on a forum

I put a Hodgekis 25mm bar on the rear, set to medium and that rear end sway totally went away trail braking. I only have the stock MR Bilsteins with stock springs though, so I know it's all going to be different again with coil overs.
When I ran just Hotchkis lowering springs and camber plates I had my 25mm bar set to full stiff to get the car to handle correctly and not push. But when I got the KW's even the medium setting was oversteering all over the place. So I set it to the lowest setting and minimized the bump setting on the shocks. I like being able to adjust a bar as well, but with good rates i.e. 8k/10k it takes a smaller bar to be in the neutral handling range.
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Old Oct 28, 2008 | 09:42 PM
  #4010  
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From: Tacoma, Washington
lukas use car jack better.. but i would lift car little bit and put woods block under front tire so i can jack up all..

But i use car Lifter
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Old Oct 28, 2008 | 10:26 PM
  #4011  
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From: Seattle
Originally Posted by hanahawaiian
lukas use car jack better.. but i would lift car little bit and put woods block under front tire so i can jack up all..

But i use car Lifter
Ty Chris. My Motul tranny oil will be here this week and so does the LSD. I didn't buy the greddy fmic but bought fuel pump.
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Old Oct 28, 2008 | 10:38 PM
  #4012  
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From: Tacoma, Washington
u need me help with everything? text me ya
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Old Oct 28, 2008 | 10:48 PM
  #4013  
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From: Seattle
Originally Posted by hanahawaiian
u need me help with everything? text me ya
So ya, my car is hitting 25k on odo, should i change everything and count that as 30k service or should i just change the engine oil and wait for 30k to change the rest?

Where to get Amsoil 10w30?
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Old Oct 28, 2008 | 10:50 PM
  #4014  
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From: kent wa
There is an AMSoil shop down on auburn way south in Auburn.
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Old Oct 28, 2008 | 10:51 PM
  #4015  
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From: Tacoma, Washington
i can get amsoil for u ya lukas... AMSoil dealer do cheaper with me.. than other places..
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Old Oct 28, 2008 | 10:52 PM
  #4016  
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From: Tacoma, Washington
Lukas. had u been drive hard lately? racing sometime? if u do

better change everything now..

I always change my Diff rear, Tcase and Tranny at 10k or 15k and motor oil at 2 or 3k miles..
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Old Oct 28, 2008 | 10:53 PM
  #4017  
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From: Seattle, WA
Originally Posted by SunKren
So ya, my car is hitting 25k on odo, should i change everything and count that as 30k service or should i just change the engine oil and wait for 30k to change the rest?

Where to get Amsoil 10w30?
I would just change everything early. C66racing always has good deals on Amsoil although you may be able to find in your town. I think I paid around $25 for 5quarts of 10w30 ATM couple weeks ago. Make sure you get some type of hand pump or large syringe with a tube on the end. Getting fluid into the 6sp can be tricky if not on a lift.
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Old Oct 28, 2008 | 10:57 PM
  #4018  
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From: Seattle
Originally Posted by dbsears
I would just change everything early. C66racing always has good deals on Amsoil although you may be able to find in your town. I think I paid around $25 for 5quarts of 10w30 ATM couple weeks ago. Make sure you get some type of hand pump or large syringe with a tube on the end. Getting fluid into the 6sp can be tricky if not on a lift.
Hand pump for the tranny, tcase and diff?

That's why I asked which is better to jack car up or use the ramp.
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Old Oct 28, 2008 | 11:00 PM
  #4019  
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From: Seattle, WA
Originally Posted by SunKren
Hand pump for the tranny, tcase and diff?

That's why I asked which is better to jack car up or use the ramp.
You will need the car to be level to get the correct amount of fluid in. So I would put the whole car on jack stands F&R. Just go to autozone and pick up their hand pump. Looks like a big grease gun but with a tube on the end. Costs like $8 or something.
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Old Oct 28, 2008 | 11:01 PM
  #4020  
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From: Seattle
Originally Posted by hanahawaiian
Lukas. had u been drive hard lately? racing sometime? if u do

better change everything now..

I always change my Diff rear, Tcase and Tranny at 10k or 15k and motor oil at 2 or 3k miles..
I don't race that much since I don't track that much either. I'm putting around / about 8 ~ 10k a year on my evo, had it for a year now. I want to change at 25k because I hate the kick back from tranny, first to second gear.

for motor oil, I always change at 3k miles. never failed to do so. sometime did earlier like 50miles earlier that it should be.

I think I missed the other service check before the 30k LOL
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