2.3L GT3076Build
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From: Redmond - Lake Tapps ,WA
Video from this past week:
http://www.vimeo.com/11306897
Car ran great. Hoping for more open track next time out, ran into lots of traffic.
http://www.vimeo.com/11306897
Car ran great. Hoping for more open track next time out, ran into lots of traffic.
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From: Redmond - Lake Tapps ,WA
Outside is the Contour HD 1080P, it's about the same as go-pro on wind. I can edit it out but I'm lazy and just turn the gain down and forget about sound from out of the car. The files are way too big if you leave them in full HD. Inside is just a Mini-DV cam. I really hate dealing with HD, it doesn't play in raw form on anything other than a super high end machine, and the codecs are all special. It's lots of work, I like my Mini-DV format better for simplicity.
I have an older MAC with Final Cut Pro I can use for all the Mini DV stuff, but it can't do HD. So I have Premier on my PC, but don't really like it (Premier) and don't feel like spending lots of time learning it so I just do basic stuff with it. None of my machines, even my laptop I run CAD on can handle the HD video in raw form. And I can't justify buying a new MAC just to edit car videos.
I have an older MAC with Final Cut Pro I can use for all the Mini DV stuff, but it can't do HD. So I have Premier on my PC, but don't really like it (Premier) and don't feel like spending lots of time learning it so I just do basic stuff with it. None of my machines, even my laptop I run CAD on can handle the HD video in raw form. And I can't justify buying a new MAC just to edit car videos.
oh ok. the inside is nice. but ill tell you the contour hd is nothing compared to the new go pro hero hd with wind. the new go pro completely gets rid of wind noise. the contour has a better video picture tho, but the go pro has 10x better sound. the old go pro sucked though.
what kind of suspension do you have? im going to work on my suspension soon after i get my tune where i want it. im not sure what coilovers to get tho. my car is only used on the street though.
my other friend said either bc or apexi.
what kind of suspension do you have? im going to work on my suspension soon after i get my tune where i want it. im not sure what coilovers to get tho. my car is only used on the street though.
my other friend said either bc or apexi.
Well after having a little oil leak from my head for the past 2 years (ARP head stud install without removing the head - FTL!), I'm pulling the head to fix that and decided why not just redo everything. The car has about 100K miles on it right now as it's been my daily driver with a nearly 100 mile commute. I do strictly road racing type of stuff with my car, no drag racing, so I'm looking for lots of torque, good spool-up and I'm not planning on revving past around 7800 RPM. I've always wanted to do a 2.3L and considered a stock-based turbo like a green, but they are super expensive, hard to get and I'm afraid run out of top end on a stroker. So a GT3076 seemed like a perfect fit. We'll see I guess. I got a great deal on one from somebody here.
So I've been ordering parts for a few months and procrastinating doing any actual work. Well last weekend I finally got started.
Ready to DO WORK, hood off and lots of stuff to unscrew.
White Trash temporary parts storage area. I should water my lawn more!
Pretty much everything disconnected from the engine. Just need to unbolt the AC compressor and power steering pump. Unhook the T-Case and pull that thing out. Should have the motor out this weekend and start stripping it down to go to the machine shop.
I'll be interested to see the inside of the motor after 100K and see the stock clutch as well.
Here's my pile of parts. Whenever I think I'm just about there I realize I still need something. Like the ARP main bolts I remembered I still need to order today
I'm piecing together the turbo kit myself and still need a waste gate, oil lines, and parts to fab an O2 housing. I'm also looking at doing a side-by-side radiator and vertical flow intercooler, all of which I'll fab myself with uber short IC piping.
I think I have enough stickers to cover a butt-rocker nova station wagon with a 454 in it

So I've been ordering parts for a few months and procrastinating doing any actual work. Well last weekend I finally got started.
Ready to DO WORK, hood off and lots of stuff to unscrew.
White Trash temporary parts storage area. I should water my lawn more!
Pretty much everything disconnected from the engine. Just need to unbolt the AC compressor and power steering pump. Unhook the T-Case and pull that thing out. Should have the motor out this weekend and start stripping it down to go to the machine shop.
I'll be interested to see the inside of the motor after 100K and see the stock clutch as well.
Here's my pile of parts. Whenever I think I'm just about there I realize I still need something. Like the ARP main bolts I remembered I still need to order today
I'm piecing together the turbo kit myself and still need a waste gate, oil lines, and parts to fab an O2 housing. I'm also looking at doing a side-by-side radiator and vertical flow intercooler, all of which I'll fab myself with uber short IC piping.I think I have enough stickers to cover a butt-rocker nova station wagon with a 454 in it

so i read through most pages but did see anything about an upgrade to the 3076. did you get a bigger turbo or is this one doing alright?
im thnking of a 2.3l build right now and i have the same turbo.
im thnking of a 2.3l build right now and i have the same turbo.
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From: Redmond - Lake Tapps ,WA
Still on the GT3076R. It is doing what I need, making 500 whp on a "mild" 28 psi of boost, with great throttle response. If I feel the need for more juice I'll send it to CBRD for a TAK 33R upgrade or be a baller and build myself a T4 twinscroll manifold as a project and put a T4 HTA3582 on it.
Here is the current timing map as requested.

I designed and built some new brake ducts. My original ones were hand cut with a plasma and formed in a vice, material was aluminum. The new ones are CNC laser cut and formed with dedicated tooling from stainless. In the motorsports area we have had some discussion about the effectiveness of 2" ducts. Lots of conjecture without data. So I'm going to run some back to back tests with the ducts open and blocked and see what effect it has on brake pad temperature.
Rapid prototype (ABS material from FDM machine) and test fitting of the ducts.


Real parts.



Here is the current timing map as requested.

I designed and built some new brake ducts. My original ones were hand cut with a plasma and formed in a vice, material was aluminum. The new ones are CNC laser cut and formed with dedicated tooling from stainless. In the motorsports area we have had some discussion about the effectiveness of 2" ducts. Lots of conjecture without data. So I'm going to run some back to back tests with the ducts open and blocked and see what effect it has on brake pad temperature.
Rapid prototype (ABS material from FDM machine) and test fitting of the ducts.


Real parts.



Last edited by jid2; Apr 29, 2010 at 10:02 PM.
Turns out getting the belt for the AC removal was a little work. My first thought was an OEM RS belt. They were $60; no thanks. Next was a trip to the auto parts store. I got the belt they had listed in their system for a 2005 RS. Get home - same size as my current belt that uses the AC. Turns out that none of the autoparts systems recognize the no AC models in true detail.
So I did a little searching here and found a few threads with the info needed:
- The AC delete belt is a 6 rib 57.5" belt
- Napa was the best place to go( Napa part #) 25 060569.
- Gates belt part number K060569.
- Doesn't seem to be a stocking item, so they order it in - ready for pick-up next day.
- $30
So I did a little searching here and found a few threads with the info needed:
- The AC delete belt is a 6 rib 57.5" belt
- Napa was the best place to go( Napa part #) 25 060569.
- Gates belt part number K060569.
- Doesn't seem to be a stocking item, so they order it in - ready for pick-up next day.
- $30
d
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From: Redmond - Lake Tapps ,WA
I finally got the black Delrin shift knob from the machine shop, I just need to find some time to install it and replace the rapid prototype part. Pics to follow. It's been nice to not always be working on this thing. It's running really good and I've sorted all the track related issues. It just rips now, I put e85 in it and drive it to the track. Next winter I'll build the cage and pull some weight out as a project.
Last edited by jid2; May 21, 2010 at 08:03 AM.
Wow, what a riveting read. I'm no engineer but I found this entire thread fascinating. Its too late now but if I had been a bit younger you'd have turned me onto being a Mechanical Engineer.
Great build though I applaud your ingenuity and dedication.
Great build though I applaud your ingenuity and dedication.


