The head is back on now, all the EVAP stuff removed from the intake manifold as well. Now I'm going to safety wire all the bolts on the O2 housing because I kept losing one last year during track days.

I'll be swapping out all the fluids while I'm under the car getting ready for this season. Going to use Mobile 1 15W50 for the engine, Redline MT-90 for the transmission, and Redline 75W90 gear oil for the TC and diff.

 

I'd run redline MT-90 in the trans, not MTL

Also I wouldn't run 75w90 in the TC, run shockproof heavy

- Bryan

 

I had a brain fart - it is MT90 in the transmission. I've been running el-cheapo Castrol 75W90 is the TC and diff for years now, so Redline should be an upgrade. What specific advantage does heavy shock proof have? I've run it before in other cars, but don't know what it's real advantages are.

 

Jared, this! I run this and I run some mopar viper stuff in the rear end. Also I wouldnt touch Mobil on your car. Look for some Kendall GT1 20-50 (at MOS or some other stores may have it in your area), you wont be disappointed and its cheaper or some Bradd Penn.

 

Shep recommends shock-proof in the t-case I believe to protect the ring and pinion. Shock proof is some really thick stuff.

 

This is why I run it too. After I spoke with Shep a few years ago, thats all I have run since.

 

I run heavy shockproof in the TC and rear diff, and lightweight shockproof in the transmission of my hillclimb car.

Dave

 

Who has the best pricing for the Redline mt-90 and heavy shock proof?

 

^^^ Who knows. I go to the local autoparts store and buy it. It's not worth the time to save $1 per bottle. Saving $50 dollars on Mobile 1 at Walmart is worth it though.

 

How do you find the underbody aero? Does it make a difference?

 

Im just thinking of your motor...

 

Lots of guys run Mobile 1 without issue. I've seen the oil reports for it and it's as good as fancy stuff.

 

i run amsoil 20w50 myself. what weight mobil1 you use? the reason i run 20w50 is because thats what buschur said, and since he built my motor i figured i better do what he recommends.

 

Turns out getting the belt for the AC removal was a little work. My first thought was an OEM RS belt. They were $60; no thanks. Next was a trip to the auto parts store. I got the belt they had listed in their system for a 2005 RS. Get home - same size as my current belt that uses the AC. Turns out that none of the autoparts systems recognize the no AC models in true detail.

So I did a little searching here and found a few threads with the info needed:

- The AC delete belt is a 6 rib 57.5" belt
- Napa was the best place to go( Napa part #) 25 060569.
- Gates belt part number K060569.
- Doesn't seem to be a stocking item, so they order it in - ready for pick-up next day.
- $30

 

Got a couple hours to work over the weekend. Had my hand at safety wiring for the first time. Drilling the bolts is a real pain, I broke 1 drill bit. And twisting wire is a pain. But for those keeping track... my first day at the track last year both bolts on the dump tube came out, and it was just chilling on the undertray when I got home. Then I lost a bolt from the O2 housing EVERY track day, replaced it after each day. And as a bonus I lost 1 bolt from the wastegate. Between adding nuts to the wastegate/dump, and safety wire on the O2 I'm hoping to loose zero bolts this year.



After removing the AC heat exchanger there is a hug gap on the sides and bottom of the radiator. This would make the airflow semi-crappy through the radiator. So I broke out the speed tape. There are more elegant ways of doing this, but I don't have time for it right now - I have a sick 2 month old FTL.



I also pulled the EVAP can from the rear end. Getting ready to change all the fluids next.