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EVOlutionary's LR2.2L MIVEC Build - Titanium Inside :)

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Old Sep 17, 2013 | 07:30 PM
  #211  
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Well, I'm stuck until I figure out what to do. I have the seat back all the way touching the roll cage main hoop cross bar an the pedals are going to be too close for comfort. I am in need of the best solution. The options I've though of so far include:

- moving the seat forward and using the OEM pedals, scrapping the $800 pedal box I just imported from Europe
- cutting out parts of my new cage and rewelding them (harness bar from straight to curved, move the gusset tube by my head, etc) so can move the seat back 2 more inches. Also would need to modify/change my seat rails
- cut/modify the firewall to move the pedal box forward 2 inches
- some other option I have not yet thought about???

Any thoughts???

One good thing - car is back to "rolling chassis" status for the first time in about 1 year!!








Last edited by EVOlutionary; Sep 17, 2013 at 07:35 PM.
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Old Sep 18, 2013 | 06:11 AM
  #212  
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my two cents (about all it is worth too) would be to modify firewall to move the pedal box back. As I was reading, that was my first thought before reading through your options. Good Luck!
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Old Sep 18, 2013 | 07:04 AM
  #213  
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I would agree with bassic modify the firewall or is there a way to trim the pedal box so it can move back two inches? sry if that a dumb question not to familer with the pedal box thing, but just adding my .02 best of luck
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Old Sep 18, 2013 | 10:34 AM
  #214  
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Something you might want to look in to. It would save some weight as well!!

http://www.nlm.nih.gov/medlineplus/e...cle/002965.htm
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Old Sep 18, 2013 | 10:35 AM
  #215  
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Double post...
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Old Sep 18, 2013 | 11:21 AM
  #216  
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Ouch!!
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Old Sep 21, 2013 | 12:15 AM
  #217  
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Originally Posted by EVOlutionary
Well, I'm stuck until I figure out what to do. I have the seat back all the way touching the roll cage main hoop cross bar an the pedals are going to be too close for comfort. I am in need of the best solution. The options I've though of so far include:

- moving the seat forward and using the OEM pedals, scrapping the $800 pedal box I just imported from Europe
- cutting out parts of my new cage and rewelding them (harness bar from straight to curved, move the gusset tube by my head, etc) so can move the seat back 2 more inches. Also would need to modify/change my seat rails
- cut/modify the firewall to move the pedal box forward 2 inches
- some other option I have not yet thought about???

Any thoughts???
I'm curious why you think you need a floor mounted pedal box? if it's the dual master cylinders you're after there are easier solutions. like this.
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...asp?RecID=9162

that said, i'd leave the cage and firewall alone.
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Old Sep 21, 2013 | 09:42 AM
  #218  
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Originally Posted by griceiv
I'm curious why you think you need a floor mounted pedal box? if it's the dual master cylinders you're after there are easier solutions. like this.
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...asp?RecID=9162

that said, i'd leave the cage and firewall alone.
Two main reasons. First is to move the seat back as far as possible. Where it is currently mounted (as far back as I can go with this cage design) my shoulder is behind the B-pillar. Next build I'll have the main hoop moved back even further. . .

Second reason is weight and cleaning up the engine bay. . .

Any downsides to the pedal box vs OEM setup? Besides fitment/cost?
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Old Sep 24, 2013 | 10:02 PM
  #219  
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My new iPhone cover thanks to Bruzewski!!


Last edited by EVOlutionary; Sep 24, 2013 at 10:07 PM.
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Old Sep 24, 2013 | 10:11 PM
  #220  
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Mocking up the steering column.



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Old Oct 19, 2013 | 06:22 PM
  #221  
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Hey. Curious as to why you didn't go with this set up:

http://www.rallynuts.com/motorsport-...l-box-kit.html

You just add one of these in:

http://www.rallynuts.com/motorsport-...ted-cover.html

Would have been around $200 more expensive than your current set up, but would have given you the room you need.
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Old Oct 22, 2013 | 08:57 PM
  #222  
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Originally Posted by SDevo13
Hey. Curious as to why you didn't go with this set up:

http://www.rallynuts.com/motorsport-...l-box-kit.html

You just add one of these in:

http://www.rallynuts.com/motorsport-...ted-cover.html

Would have been around $200 more expensive than your current set up, but would have given you the room you need.
I did see that. There are a couple reasons I did not go with that setup. First - I am trying to keep my a$$ as low in the car as possible, and I thought that raising my feet 2-3" to clear the master cylinders and plumbing may not be very comfy. Second - it seemed the routing of the brake lines with this setup would be more difficult.

HOWEVER - after attempting to my alternative mounting scheme using the E30 box - I think I may just buy the Evo-specific box and see which one works best for me. Heel height does not seem to be as big of issue as I thought it may. Then I can simply sell off the unused box to recoup some of my expense. Wouldn't be the first time I bought two of something and sold one at a loss

One more note - after checking out this pedal box setup I would REALLY like to see a high end Tilton or AP box in person to see just HOW different they are in terms of fit and quality. I wish I could afford a $5000 AP box like the Tilton Interiors Evo. I also wish I could afford a $25000 Holinger sequential trans with a $10000 ECU/shifter setup. . . not today, but I'll keep putting in the long hours at work so I can afford whatever I can. . . which leads me to my latest acquisition
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Old Oct 22, 2013 | 09:38 PM
  #223  
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Sent you a PM
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Old Oct 22, 2013 | 10:36 PM
  #224  
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Here are a few parts of my new dry-sump oiling setup:

The Peterson multistage pump assembly:


The Peterson oil reservoir:


The new billet front cover that deletes the OEM oil pump:
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Old Oct 23, 2013 | 04:38 AM
  #225  
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Niiiiice.
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