New WW IX MR
been unbelievably busy lately, so i have hardly touched the car (hardly even been on these forums) - though i walk past it in the garage every morning, afternoon, and night. i decided to tackle one last thing left before the rear diff gets serviced for the stripped fill-hole threads:




Buschur's removable harness bar - halfway in! I ran out of time towards the end of the night to wrap up the rest (most) of it. A few things I noticed installing it this time around.
Because the threads on the bolt that go into the top portion of the seatbelt stop halfway along the way, you can't use the spin washers that lock the seatbelt part in place. When I first did this, I thought that was the reason why I lost functionality as far as being able to rotate the top portion of the seatbelt - I realize now that that is not the case. The reason I lose rotation in the seatbelt is because the washer given to go through the seatbelt is too thick, and so there's too much friction.
The second thing I noticed is that there is a lot of give in the seatbelt sliders (what lets you adjust the seatbelts up and down) and in turn there's a lot of give in the bar. I believe this was remedied last time by attaching the bottom "legs" for the harness bar. Nothing major, jsut wonder if this is the reason i still always had a little give with the harness on, and wonder how much it really does as far as chassis support goes.




Buschur's removable harness bar - halfway in! I ran out of time towards the end of the night to wrap up the rest (most) of it. A few things I noticed installing it this time around.
Because the threads on the bolt that go into the top portion of the seatbelt stop halfway along the way, you can't use the spin washers that lock the seatbelt part in place. When I first did this, I thought that was the reason why I lost functionality as far as being able to rotate the top portion of the seatbelt - I realize now that that is not the case. The reason I lose rotation in the seatbelt is because the washer given to go through the seatbelt is too thick, and so there's too much friction.
The second thing I noticed is that there is a lot of give in the seatbelt sliders (what lets you adjust the seatbelts up and down) and in turn there's a lot of give in the bar. I believe this was remedied last time by attaching the bottom "legs" for the harness bar. Nothing major, jsut wonder if this is the reason i still always had a little give with the harness on, and wonder how much it really does as far as chassis support goes.
Last edited by kyoo; Jan 10, 2014 at 09:18 PM.
you guys are gonna hate me, i still haven't done **** with this car. it hasn't been started since august - how long does a disconnected car battery last?? i'm slowly making the moves to get it up and running again.
anyone have any tips on what to do with the battery? i've got a trickle charger that does 6v or 12v, i'm assuming 12v will be appropriate. one clasp to positive, one clasp to chassis, and plug it in? do i have to check the water in the battery and stuff?
prob will do coolant flsuh and oil change before i start the car up too. it's been parked for forever but at the very least on cardboard, hopefully that helped to not flatspot the tires lol. hmm anything else? i may need to reload the tune if the car's forgotten it after all this time lol
anyone have any tips on what to do with the battery? i've got a trickle charger that does 6v or 12v, i'm assuming 12v will be appropriate. one clasp to positive, one clasp to chassis, and plug it in? do i have to check the water in the battery and stuff?
prob will do coolant flsuh and oil change before i start the car up too. it's been parked for forever but at the very least on cardboard, hopefully that helped to not flatspot the tires lol. hmm anything else? i may need to reload the tune if the car's forgotten it after all this time lol
So, some trickle chargers won't charge if the battery has fallen below a certain amperage.
You might want to get a second battery, daisy chain it to the battery already in the car and then start the motor. From there you might want to drive it a bit to get the amperage back up before you can hand it off to your trickle charger.
Ask me how I know.
You might want to get a second battery, daisy chain it to the battery already in the car and then start the motor. From there you might want to drive it a bit to get the amperage back up before you can hand it off to your trickle charger.
Ask me how I know.
gonna start this bad boy up again this weekend! i mean it this time...
i will:
- hook up to trickle overnight, otherwise just hook it up to second battery since it's parked next to the outback
- pull the plugs and spray inside with fogging oil
- change the oil just before starting it, fill up the oil filter with oil
- fire it up, fill up gas, drive it around
- get the coolant changed, add RMI, then do a proper flush at home later!
here goes nothing!
i will:
- hook up to trickle overnight, otherwise just hook it up to second battery since it's parked next to the outback
- pull the plugs and spray inside with fogging oil
- change the oil just before starting it, fill up the oil filter with oil
- fire it up, fill up gas, drive it around
- get the coolant changed, add RMI, then do a proper flush at home later!
here goes nothing!












