I think you'll be good with turning the shocks stiffer. Once you get 10 clicks out from full stiff, I would only do 2 clicks at a time.

 

i don't think he's out of clicks, if i read right. (?)

OP: if you are running that soft, then you may be pogoing the rear. mine was doing the same until i increased dampening.

to be clear: Ohlins adjust rebound AND compression? my coilovers are rebound adjustable only, so i don't have to worry about taking compression into account as much when making an adjustment.

 

Clickers adjust bleed, which is the smallest flow amount which really only effects the slowest shaft speeds. So, on any shock, the single clicker does adjust both, but due to hydraulic principles, it effects a much higher percentage of change for rebound then it does compression. Especially since shaft speeds are slower for rebound then compression. Fortune Auto's web site has a VERY good depiction of this in their shock dyno graphs. They show the single clicker shocks on the shock dyno, and the clicker has a far greater effect on damping for rebound than compression.


http://www.fortune-auto.com/510series.htm

 

great info all - so I am mainly adjusting rebound when I adjust the coilovers it sounds like?

kaj, could be pogoing like you said - I didn't realize that was all that soft, as it felt pretty firm to me. looks like I have some clicks testing to do on 11/8!

I'm still not entirely swayed from 10/12, got a lot of sources saying it's a decent rate that the ohlins can still easily handle but will make that call after I adjust the clickers.

again though, the difference between bald z1ss at the end of their lives, that already turn into a hard compound halfway through it, and re71rs is likely to be vast so I may end up wanting stiffer anyway. my vague goal with the suspension for now is to get it from oversteer-y to neutral more, so I can actually take advantage of the ACD.

 

You have 11k front 8k rear springs?

 

8k front, 10k rear

 

AST told me, specifically, that mine adjust rebound and compression is steady.
Robi was telling me some adjust both, some adjust one. I'm not sure what Ohlins does.

As for settings, I knew mine needed more rebound dampening because the car was bouncing/lurching under throttle, out of turns.

But I can see letsgetthisdone's point. I could see not enough dampening popping the rear end up, theoretically.

 

So, where are you at for clicks?


If the front seems to feel good, and you like, I would start by setting the rear 2-3 clicks stiffer than the front, and go from there.

 

17 from stiff, front and rear - originally set this as the courses I run on are very bumpy. Will start shooting for stiffer.

 

My string of improvements in the Mini continues - I still am not sure what changed in my driving, but the PDX must have been a big part of it. From past videos it looks like I'm just pushing the car harder - staying on the throttle longer, taking corners more aggressively and turning in slightly earlier.

From a driving perspective, the only thing I'm consciously doing is looking ahead further - which I guess is making a big difference!

Next up: TnTing the Evo's shocks this weekend

 

here's a pic i found of the evo in a braking/turning situation - the rear tire is down, but barely. 2 people in the car, before i lowered the rear about half an inch:

 

What tire are you on?

 

That inside rear is off the ground for sure...lol. The circumferential grooves make it look like a hooiser, or used NT01..

 

That would explain it. Here is a picture of me driving a stock Evo on Hoosiers LOL Way too much tire for the setup

.

 

lol - they're actually just worn to **** z1star specs -

what do i need then? more spring? less bar (whiteline rsb, set to soft now, was probably medium then) - I have a good deal on springs, can go 10/12 but that's about the limit I can and am willing to go.

If I'm lifting like that already, and going to get stickier tire, then I must need more spring to keep the car down? And more rebound on top of that anyway?