You'll be fine because you have the radium venturi. I am running OEM rail, frp and feed/return lines.

I'd highly recommend something other than a crappy DW product. Use aeromotive or asnu.

I ran a easy performance pump controller but the QC is crap and I fried one. I upgraded to a torqbyte programmable controller and it's been rock solid ever since.

 

What's the current status of the car Bryan?

 

So what do you recommend for an EXTERNAL pump that exceeds 255lph and is E85 safe? The surge tank I am building has the pump external. And the follow up question is can I run it at full 100% power all the time since I have the upgraded radium venturi (stock return line, and FPR) ? I really don't want drop coin on that full controller if I can avoid it. Perhaps I can design a 9v/12v switch over circuit that copies the factory in tank lift pump (walbro 255). That also makes me nervous since your essentially playing/experimenting with your entire engine at that point.....

 

Been sitting in the garage collecting dust. Was waiting for my guy to come back from vacation. Dropping it off at his shop this Wednesday.

So, you are going to run an external pump to feed the motor from the surge tank and use a 255 in the oem tank to feed the surge tank?

I'd either use a switch to have the external pump switch to 100% at WOT or run a controller or if you want to run it at 100% all the time, you will most likely need an adjustable FPR.

 

'
Yes that;s correct. 255 in oem tank in radium hanger (with upgraded venturi) with oem wiring and thus 9v/12v switching feeding the surge tank. The problem now is finding an external pump to pull from the surge tank and feed the rail. I was looking at deatschwerks but it sounds like they have issues? I don't like the idea of 100% power all the time, and upgrading the FPR. However, the controller path isn't exactly cheap. I am going to have to do some brainstorming on a reliable switching method. Just finding a way to create a high current 9v power source isn't easy! I've been looking and haven't found DC/DC power supply that has any good amount of current.

 

Hardware the factory tank pump. Use factory wiring to power external pump, and use a Hobbs switch to give it power straight from the batter at WOT.

Look up mrfred's hi/lo voltage rewire thread for the 8/9.

 

You don't need a power supply, you can just copy what the OEM does and use resistors to drop the voltage. If you are looking for high power adjustable supplies though I have been toying with the idea of experimenting with one of these . That little guy has full digital speed control and some pretty good specs

• Input voltage: 6-28V
• Continuous current: 60A*
• Peak current (2 sec): 100A

Obviously you would need some control circuitry as well.

 

I hope the car gets back running. ^^^ This is the horror story of the year regarding check *****.

 

Dropped the Evo off at the shop today.

He started with a leak down test of cyl #3. It's basically perfect at 2% or so. Compression as I stated before is also perfect at 178.

So now I am crossing fingers for a valve seal so head doesn't have to come off, if it's a valve guide the head has to come off I believe.

 

Most likely a seal. Guides don't usually go bad fast unless there's a serious issue. But yea if it's a guide the head will have to come off and you'll have to have the seat machined as well.

 

He did a leak down on the rest of the cylinders, all of them are basically 2% like #3. So cylinders are solid. Which makes me feel much better.

He scoped #3 intake valves and they are wet with oil. Next is taking valve cover off and going in for valve seal surgery.

 

Good bet it's just a valve seal. Takes a lot to wipe out a guide.

 

Your motor was running really primo. Glad it was just a seal that pooped. Anymore track days on the West coast?

 

Seals are fine. Nothing visibly wrong after that. Guess it's time to take the head off.

Wondering if something got damaged with the head in this cylinder from shrapnel before that the machine shop didn't catch.

I hate this car.

 

Thought for sure that would be it. If the intakes were wet then there must be an issue with the head. Any porting work done
previously on these heads?

I know the frustration with modified high output engines and performance cars. Seems like they are "Hell when they are well "... but I found too many "issues" kept popping up and disappointments. Added cost to maintain and build. Been without a performance vehicle for 7 years now. Boring but the drama and grief /cost is gone for the few thrills provided.