Evolved Member
Super clean, awesome rebuild, glad she is up & running again! I never thought about using those 2 holes on the back of the valve cover to mount little brackets for the throttle cable, I like that idea!
Newbie
Holy crap you're attention to detail is unreal.
What's the part number of the AN adapter piece that allows for a -6 to connect to the factory return line if you don't mind me asking.
What's the part number of the AN adapter piece that allows for a -6 to connect to the factory return line if you don't mind me asking.
Thanks for all your props! I really do appreciate it!
The adapter fitting is from www.extremepsi.com I'll have to look up the part number later. They are the only ones that sell it.
The idea for the throttle cable came up because originally AMS ran it under the manifold and had too much slack. And I didn't want it to be in the front. It was pretty simple.
The adapter fitting is from www.extremepsi.com I'll have to look up the part number later. They are the only ones that sell it.
The idea for the throttle cable came up because originally AMS ran it under the manifold and had too much slack. And I didn't want it to be in the front. It was pretty simple.
Here is the part #26301. Apparently they are made out of brass now.
http://www.extremepsi.com/store/prod...at=1559&page=1
http://www.extremepsi.com/store/prod...at=1559&page=1
Evolved Member
Quote:
Did you shorten the throttle cable? So for your setup it comes out of the firewall, to the 2 brackets on the valve cover & then runs underneath the fuel rail to the throttle body?Originally Posted by Pirana
The idea for the throttle cable came up because originally AMS ran it under the manifold and had too much slack. And I didn't want it to be in the front. It was pretty simple.
I was running mine like most people that "relocate" it. Out of the firewall, 90 degrees, then snaked it behind bracket with the fuel injector resistor, etc & ABS stuff. 180 degrees from the strut tower to the throttle body.
Newbie
Quote:
http://www.extremepsi.com/store/prod...at=1559&page=1
Thank you sir!Originally Posted by Pirana
Here is the part #26301. Apparently they are made out of brass now.http://www.extremepsi.com/store/prod...at=1559&page=1
Newbie
Quote:
http://www.extremepsi.com/store/prod...at=1559&page=1
Would this be a similar part?Originally Posted by Pirana
Here is the part #26301. Apparently they are made out of brass now.http://www.extremepsi.com/store/prod...at=1559&page=1
http://www.racecomponentsinc.com/Met...l_Fitting.html
Newbie
Holy crap, that is a COMPLETE rebuild, i wish i could do a detailed rebuild like that! Awesome pictures, love the colors too! Nice job!
Quote:
Thank you very much! And to keep the interest going...........more pics!!!Originally Posted by DanyLeduc
Holy crap, that is a COMPLETE rebuild, i wish i could do a detailed rebuild like that! Awesome pictures, love the colors too! Nice job!

So, to keep pace with the front changes (from an APR strut bar to a DC Sports Titanium) the rear titanium matched set, thanks to Vivid Racing! As you might know both are discontinued items.

Plus new carpeting for the floor.

Cant forget Domo! A gift from my daughter

After having tons of trouble with the front mini-battery I did switch to a regular sized Optima, installed on a CNC-tray.

OK so I had this little device for ever! And finally had a great idea on what to use it and where to install it....


Voila! A $7 digital volt meter!


Its hooked up to a hood pin switch so it turns off when the hood is shut down.

So now for some interior changes...Works Bell Quick Release and hub for a Nardi Deep Dish Corn


It was either this or a $1,200 carbon fiber cover....this was way cheaper. I needed the back seat to muffle the sound from exhaust and suspension.


I really dont use it or there isnt any real need for it, but I like how its out of the way and can use it if I really wanted to. ARK turbo timer.

