Evo IX 2.3 Liter Build FP Black Build
#31
Evolved Member
iTrader: (90)
I took the whole dash to Mitsu You should have seen the look on the service managers face when I brought it in. I called 4 different dealerships and this is the only one that would do it for me. The convo went something like this:
_____________________________________
Service person: "Thank you for calling ************* Mitsubishi, how can I help you?"
Me: "Hey man, i'm going to have to ask you for a big personal favor in regards to my car."
Service person:"Yes sir, not a problem, what's wrong ? "
Me with my Bullsh!@ statement: "I'm in the process of turning my track car into a street legal car again, but I don't want to drive it to you guys without proper registration and I don't have the funds to tow it. I'm aware that there has been an airbag recall and the car is already apart. May I please bring you guys the dash so that you may replace the passenger side airbag? I'll take care of installation."
Service person: "Ok, i'll have to ask for regional manager approval and you will have to sign some paperwork, is that ok?"
Me: "Yes, absolutely."
_______________________________________________
Later that day, he calls me back and tells me they can do it and schedules me an appointment. A week after that I have the dash in the car like nothing ever happened.
I don't expect this to work for everybody, but it is possible.
-pal215
My dash it out right now too, looks like I may try this, haha...
#32
Evolved Member
iTrader: (41)
This build is going to be awesome keep up the good work! Looks like you have a ton of quality parts going in her so Im sure it'll turn out awesome!
In regards to the airbag replacement, did they end up having you sign any paperwork?
I'd like to get mine done but would rather do it myself...I figured there is no way I'd be able to get them to give me an airbag but you have opened up my eyes.
In regards to the airbag replacement, did they end up having you sign any paperwork?
I'd like to get mine done but would rather do it myself...I figured there is no way I'd be able to get them to give me an airbag but you have opened up my eyes.
#33
This build is going to be awesome keep up the good work! Looks like you have a ton of quality parts going in her so Im sure it'll turn out awesome!
In regards to the airbag replacement, did they end up having you sign any paperwork?
I'd like to get mine done but would rather do it myself...I figured there is no way I'd be able to get them to give me an airbag but you have opened up my eyes.
In regards to the airbag replacement, did they end up having you sign any paperwork?
I'd like to get mine done but would rather do it myself...I figured there is no way I'd be able to get them to give me an airbag but you have opened up my eyes.
Yes, they printed out a liability waiver which I signed and dated that declined their responsibility for anything wrong happening as a result of me not reinstalling the dash with the airbag correctly. Super easy decision as I hear they actually charge for this recall if you have aftermarket gauge wiring (which I do).
Give them a call when you have time, you might just get someone reasonable on the other side of the phone. You might have to try a few dealerships before you find one that is laid back enough
-pal215
#34
Did some more prep work today!
The last thing I want to do when the block and head come in are things that I could have done prior.
I replaced all of the 100,000 mile old and brittle vacuum lines that would probably cause a boost leak on my first ride out. They located behind the engine and on the intake manifold making it very difficult to get to once the engine is installed so this was my chance. I ordered 6 ft of every size line from STM racing, it took far less to complete the job haha. Every joint got a zip tie.
In the beginning of a build here in CA you kinda have to decide how risky you want to be with smog laws in such and where to draw the line. Ditching the EGR system didn't make the cut and I was determined to keep it. As such I used an old tooth brush and brake cleaner to refresh the EGR valve.
I was looking at the placement of the wideband sensor bung on the MAP FP downpipe and it was nowhere near where I had it before ( 8 inches before the cat, 3 o clock). Instead it was right under the oil pan-ish at the 9 o clock position. I could have been lazy and just cut the wires, extended them, added resistance to the circuit and screwed up my readings, but instead I took the hard route. I backed out my o2 sensor and plugged the previous OEM made hole in the chassis.
After cutting many zip ties and rerouting wires, I successfully had the O2 sensor through the firewall and in the engine bay for later. I used the rubber grommet under the driver side fender and followed the harness from there into the engine bay.
A new part came in today. It's used to reduce unnecessary rotational mass on the crank. I'm deleting my balance shafts so there is no need to keep the balance shaft sprocket. Instead, i'm using a spacer about 1/4 of it's size but same thickness just to keep the right pressure against the crank trigger plate and crank timing gear. I'd weigh them for you guys, but I don't have a scale that picks up grams.
I cleaned my rocker arms and lifters by soaking them in diesel fuel. I passed a small sewing needle through each oiling hole on the rockers that mates to the top of each lifter to make sure it was free of any crap. Each lifter was pumped full of diesel and bled twice. After that I used Amsoil break in Oil SAE30 to drown my rockers and fill my lifters. I will be bleeding the lifters once more before assembly. I do not believe in installing them hard and filled with fluid. I'll let the engine take care of that.
Finally, I decided give the cars interior a quick clean and vacuum.
That's all I have for now, unless I find something else to work on between now and when the block arrives .
-pal215
The last thing I want to do when the block and head come in are things that I could have done prior.
I replaced all of the 100,000 mile old and brittle vacuum lines that would probably cause a boost leak on my first ride out. They located behind the engine and on the intake manifold making it very difficult to get to once the engine is installed so this was my chance. I ordered 6 ft of every size line from STM racing, it took far less to complete the job haha. Every joint got a zip tie.
In the beginning of a build here in CA you kinda have to decide how risky you want to be with smog laws in such and where to draw the line. Ditching the EGR system didn't make the cut and I was determined to keep it. As such I used an old tooth brush and brake cleaner to refresh the EGR valve.
I was looking at the placement of the wideband sensor bung on the MAP FP downpipe and it was nowhere near where I had it before ( 8 inches before the cat, 3 o clock). Instead it was right under the oil pan-ish at the 9 o clock position. I could have been lazy and just cut the wires, extended them, added resistance to the circuit and screwed up my readings, but instead I took the hard route. I backed out my o2 sensor and plugged the previous OEM made hole in the chassis.
After cutting many zip ties and rerouting wires, I successfully had the O2 sensor through the firewall and in the engine bay for later. I used the rubber grommet under the driver side fender and followed the harness from there into the engine bay.
A new part came in today. It's used to reduce unnecessary rotational mass on the crank. I'm deleting my balance shafts so there is no need to keep the balance shaft sprocket. Instead, i'm using a spacer about 1/4 of it's size but same thickness just to keep the right pressure against the crank trigger plate and crank timing gear. I'd weigh them for you guys, but I don't have a scale that picks up grams.
I cleaned my rocker arms and lifters by soaking them in diesel fuel. I passed a small sewing needle through each oiling hole on the rockers that mates to the top of each lifter to make sure it was free of any crap. Each lifter was pumped full of diesel and bled twice. After that I used Amsoil break in Oil SAE30 to drown my rockers and fill my lifters. I will be bleeding the lifters once more before assembly. I do not believe in installing them hard and filled with fluid. I'll let the engine take care of that.
Finally, I decided give the cars interior a quick clean and vacuum.
That's all I have for now, unless I find something else to work on between now and when the block arrives .
-pal215
Last edited by Pal215; Aug 28, 2016 at 05:31 PM.
#36
I've seen people do it both ways, most with success. Filling them with oil before install makes me feel like I'm putting too much strain on the rocker and cam assembly upon start up. People also say that it increases your chances of bending a valve, although if that was the case, why do they sell solid lifters ?
I tend to follow a lot of jafromobile videos when it comes to the 4g63.
-pal215
The following users liked this post:
cerevo (Aug 29, 2016)
#37
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
HLA's should be installed empty.
I would block off the EGR. I believe the thermactor port in the head is the correct size for 3/8 or 1/2 pipe thread. Tap it, and plug it up. You can leave the EGR valve in place and functioning, but there will be no exhaust gases coming through.
I would block off the EGR. I believe the thermactor port in the head is the correct size for 3/8 or 1/2 pipe thread. Tap it, and plug it up. You can leave the EGR valve in place and functioning, but there will be no exhaust gases coming through.
#38
Evolving Member
iTrader: (1)
Awesome video, thanks!
I wonder if thats why my neon engine ran so rough for a while.. Cause I had pumped them up before I installed them.
Great info.
And solid lifters require adjustment I would think when you installed solids you would have to use feeler gauges to get the spacing correct. I have helped a friend do that in his RSX once before.
I wonder if thats why my neon engine ran so rough for a while.. Cause I had pumped them up before I installed them.
Great info.
And solid lifters require adjustment I would think when you installed solids you would have to use feeler gauges to get the spacing correct. I have helped a friend do that in his RSX once before.
#39
Evolving Member
#40
HLA's should be installed empty.
I would block off the EGR. I believe the thermactor port in the head is the correct size for 3/8 or 1/2 pipe thread. Tap it, and plug it up. You can leave the EGR valve in place and functioning, but there will be no exhaust gases coming through.
I would block off the EGR. I believe the thermactor port in the head is the correct size for 3/8 or 1/2 pipe thread. Tap it, and plug it up. You can leave the EGR valve in place and functioning, but there will be no exhaust gases coming through.
-pal215
Last edited by Pal215; Aug 29, 2016 at 01:36 PM.
#41
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
The port your blocking is in the head, not the manifold. Its on the cylinder 4 side, on the intake side of the head.
About halfway through the post it shows the port you want to plug. Looks like its 1/8 NPT though.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...-canister.html
About halfway through the post it shows the port you want to plug. Looks like its 1/8 NPT though.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...-canister.html
Last edited by letsgetthisdone; Aug 29, 2016 at 11:46 AM.
#43
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
Yeah. Keeps them out of the intake manifold all together. And its 100% stealth to the smog ****'s