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To add to the subject, I also have an "almost" stock X, only mods were RRE special cut-out downpipe, injectors and pump for dual 91/e85 map and had been passed as-is in 2016 and 2018. To my behold, it was failed immediately in 2020 upon the DMV plug-in with the horror message "Please see referree." Nothing was changed with the car. I had to put back everything (well, except the fuel pump), visit a dealer for an OEM reflash (I can do it myself but the Referree needed a receipt from the dealer or trusted fixer), brought the car to the Goldenwest Ref for a throughly tested and passed. I went thought this process a few times back in my youth times but now a little bit sick of it. So yeah they do check on the X now that I can confirm. Make sure to have your OEM map back before bring the car in, better than having to though the trouble like me. I still love the Evos and won't let them go so (I have 2).
Thanks for sharing your experience G20,
I expect that I will receive my sate ref letter in November. Please let us know if they give you a hard time about your 2.3l Evo.
I appreciate all the suggestions guys. Amazing how creative those jeep guys are. It looks like 15% bigger than the stock injectors would be 644cc injectors. There are many 650cc stock appearing injectors for the evo, which is good news. I'll see how the car runs on the stock injectors first and then change to 650s if it gets too lean. Something tells me the stock map richness is going to help me balance things out at cruise. If I decide to go the LLC route, I would need to learn a lot more about it. Mostly, 1. Are the penalties for getting caught worse than getting a ref ticket? Seems like I would be in trouble with the state tax department, CA dmv, but not the IRS. 2. How much does it cost to do it and is it a lengthy procedure? 3. Do you need to physically drive there each year to keep it going? I actually have not received anything in the mail about smog or ref yet. I just saw my car called out in the bar website, so i know it's coming. Better if I have it ready by then so I can beat them at their own game and then win again for another 2 years. IIRC, this is just a one time state ref and then it's back to regular smog stations.
I'd say the LLC thing is a temporary fix. It's been posted all over the internet (especially now) to the point where I'm SURE California will catch on and start cracking down.
Secrets like that are great until they get onto the internet.
I'd say the LLC thing is a temporary fix. It's been posted all over the internet (especially now) to the point where I'm SURE California will catch on and start cracking down.
Secrets like that are great until they get onto the internet.
It's absolutely a temporary fix. I think it's actually safer and less risky to just go back stock, get reffed, and then remodify. The LLC thing appears to be a matter of convenience at the end of the day.
It's absolutely a temporary fix. I think it's actually safer and less risky to just go back stock, get reffed, and then remodify. The LLC thing appears to be a matter of convenience at the end of the day.
Back and forth is what most of us have always done, but it gets old. I'm looking to let the Evo go so I can buy something I'm happy with in stock form. I'm tired of playing games in order to enjoy my cars.
So I got the smog renewal notice in the mail today. It's just a regular STAR station smog, not a state ref smog like many of us are getting. Did you guys get a second letter after this or do I just have someone watching over me ?
Car is back to stock now on the 2.3L bottom end with stock cams. It started and idled just fine on the stock tune and injectors. I left the Walbro 450 in the tank and I'm going to log AFRs sometime this week.
Got the P0401 code today while on the stock tune, "EGR SYSTEM FAILURE." All vacuum lines are on there and the solenoids are plugged in. I think it's because of the EGR port plug that I put in. I'll be removing it and testing to see if it solves the issue. If so, I will stick to the EGR block off plate from now on between smogs.
Hey Pal 215 - You are also going to need a stock MAP sensor to stop the P0401 code from getting thrown. The test looks for a specific pressure increase when the EGR solenoid opens the valve.
Hey Pal 215 - You are also going to need a stock MAP sensor to stop the P0401 code from getting thrown. The test looks for a specific pressure increase when the EGR solenoid opens the valve.
Most definitely. This code came up even with the stock MAP sensor, which tells us that there is no way we can get away with a blocked EGR port on the stock tune, which is required to pass smog . So far no more CEL after removing that threaded plug.
Update: Went to El Cajon Mitsubishi today to perform the ECU reflash recall in order to get back the stock tune without having to pay for "flashing back to stock." It worked! It looks like they reprogrammed the immobilizer all together with both of my car keys instead of looking up the original immobilizer code that Mitsubishi built the car with. Had I known they were going to do that I would have made one up myself lol. Anyway, it looks like i'm all set and ready for a Star Smog and even a state ref. CAL ID, CVNs should be set and sorted with the immobilizer on. Verified using ECU flash that bit3 is set to 1 in the right menu. Once smogged, I will be removing this ecu from the car and using another ECU to use as my flashing/tuning ECU from now on. This will be added to my "FUC! CA SMOG Correction Kit." Let's see what other stupid waste of time tricks they will have up their sleeves next...
I have before, but it won't do me any good for CA smog as the stock immobilizer code was lost by the previous owner and tuner of the car. Most tuners disable the immobilizer code by changing the value of bit 3 under the "ECUperiphery0 (FAA)" to 0. Now this would be ok if not for the fact that disabling the immobilizer changes the CAL ID on the tune.
I've read that Smog and Ref station computers now look to see that your CAL ID matches the latest flash that the VIN of your car is supposed to have. It doesn't care about what immobilizer code you have, just that it is enabled. I then had two options: I could pay to have Mitsubishi flash it back to stock or I could practice my right to the ecm recall that I had not done yet to freeride it into the original tune. As far as I know, there is no way to get your original Immobilizer code back from Mitsubishi. They said that such a database does not exist ( I find it hard to believe). I thought about buying an RFID reader to see if I can energize and read the RFID chip in my keys to get my original immobilizer code back, but decided to skip the trial and error of that plan and go straight to the dealer. It makes me wonder if somehow has car key reader that spits out the immobilizer value in hex for you.
I have before, but it won't do me any good for CA smog as the stock immobilizer code was lost by the previous owner and tuner of the car. Most tuners disable the immobilizer code by changing the value of bit 3 under the "ECUperiphery0 (FAA)" to 0. Now this would be ok if not for the fact that disabling the immobilizer changes the CAL ID on the tune.
I've read that Smog and Ref station computers now look to see that your CAL ID matches the latest flash that the VIN of your car is supposed to have. It doesn't care about what immobilizer code you have, just that it is enabled. I then had two options: I could pay to have Mitsubishi flash it back to stock or I could practice my right to the ecm recall that I had not done yet to freeride it into the original tune. As far as I know, there is no way to get your original Immobilizer code back from Mitsubishi. They said that such a database does not exist ( I find it hard to believe). I thought about buying an RFID reader to see if I can energize and read the RFID chip in my keys to get my original immobilizer code back, but decided to skip the trial and error of that plan and go straight to the dealer. It makes me wonder if somehow has car key reader that spits out the immobilizer value in hex for you.
Its a good thing you got new keys and reactivated the immobilizer. Anyone could have stolen your Evo with a regular key. It was a prime target considering how many Evos I have seen recently stolen.
The factory immobilizer is beyond useless as anti-theft. The third pedal is more effective anti-theft than the factory immobilizer. A 12-year-old could disable it in less than a minute. Install an aftermarket alarm or some creative kill switch if you actually want to protect your car from getting stolen.
. So far no more CEL after removing that threaded plug.
