Bummer about the California laws. The rest of the country and industry may have a decade left before things get even harder.

Unless its an autox car, I think either of those are too small for the 2.3. You've got a mivec 2.3. I can drive my FP Red MHI into compressor surge on my 2.2 below 4000 if need be.The engine can only move so much air at low rpms.

I still feel that a Red on 2.2/2.3 mivec car is a great combination. It will make 500wtq at 4000 if you want it to and make 585/600whp out the top.

 

Man all these hoops to jump through just for smog really makes me not want to add power to my evo. Hopefully you will get the headache over with soon!

 

I totally respect what Pal215 is doing. I certainly have lost that desire to play that game & will not!

There are other choices available!

 

Thank you for all words of encouragement gents. My next referee appointment is coming up soon so we will see if they are finally willing to let an evo back into the wild or just tack on more stuff. What we can establish from all this is that the CA SMOG Referee organization is not just discreditable, but also abusive. Old news of course, but the evidence is overwhelming. Looks like police impound and state referees have complete reign over CA roads and unless we can control karma, that's how it is going to stay. The only people who are truly exempt and are able to do whatever they want are the refs themselves. Hypocrites.

 

Best of luck Rany, hopefully no more ****ery.

 

Thanks Sean!

With these clowns, you never know what they can make up on the spot.

 

Passed state ref! Said he could fail me on not having the o2 bung on the catalytic converter exit itself, but he let it slide because it was immediately on the cat back that followed and that he had bigger fish to fry.

I'm done with these guys and moving on with my life. TIME TO MOD!

 

Congrats man, glad it's done and over with!

 

I recently replaced my triple gauge pillar pod with a single zeitronix LCD readout screen. I was happy to free up some windshield space and clean up the dash, but I was not a fan of placing the Zeitronix LCD unit on my steering wheel column. It blocks some of the oem gauges and looks thrown in like so:



I asked my close friend for some help 3D printing a custom, clean looking, bracket that replaces the lcd gauges plastic end caps, to hold the zeitronix unit to the dash all while using the factory gauge screws. The bracket is then secured to the dash using 3m tape. It turned out fantastic!

If anybody needs one, he is willing to print and ship them for a great price. PM if interested.

 

Hey Evom, Happy Holidays!

I have not posted to this thread in a while so I thought I would give you a precursor on what's to come with my build. I am changing things up for next year!

I've decided to trade peak horsepower for better spool and modify my evo's appearance/handling. Most of my build will stay the same, but I wanted to relist the specs and hear your thoughts on the following:

-2.3L Manley I-beam rods, Manley Billet crank, Wiseco Pistons
-GSC R2 Billet Cams
-Mitsubishi TF06-18k Turbo <--- Would it be better to use the stock IX cams for this turbo? It falls between an FP 71HTA and FP Green. I'm thinking the R2s are still fine since it's a 2.3L stroker motor with ported head.
-GSC 4G63 Beehive Springs High RPM (5041)
-Boostin Performance Ported Mivec cylinder head +1mm oversized valves
-Boostin Performance Ported Intake Manifold
-MAP ported Throttle body
-FIC 2150cc Injectors <--- Any difference in drivability or idle if I switched to ID1300's for their better E85 compatibility? Is the difference big enough to notice with R2 cams anyway?
-FP Exhaust Manifold
-ETS 3.5" Intercooler with UIPC and LICP
-4" TScomp intake
-3" turbo back exhaust
-Spoolin up COP ignition

-KW V3 Coilovers <--- I've had these for a while now, do Ohlins DFV R&T perform better than these for daily use? Not sure why the V3s cost more than the Ohlins at this time.

Other things to do:
-Remove APR front splitter and install a fresh 9 SE lip.
-Reinstall factory 5 speed and remove 6 speed trans cooler/pump.

Removing the trans cooler pump and front splitter should take a minimum of 50lbs off the front of my car. After some time of sampling the 6 speed, I can confidently say for myself that the 5 speed felt smoother in shifts.

The common theme here is that I am getting the car ready to be more daily driven. These days I drive it once or twice a week, but i'm getting bored of daily driving my toyota corolla . I don't drive far to work so I won't be racking up the miles either.

 

Alright, looking fwd to the details moving fwd

 

I would go to S2 cams, and an FP Green.

 

Welcome back! That turbo is too small for a 100mm crank engine. These engines go well to 8000+ . Use the gearbox and let it breathe .

The engine needs some RPM to actually move the air in and out of the engine.

I would not go any smaller then a Fp red mhi on a 2.2/2.3 engine. Unless you auto x and are ok with choking the engine for short periods.
Read up on backpressure and not being able to clean the cylinder.
Even an FP black MHI 2.3 mivec will make some steam at 4000 and go to 8000 with pride. These engines go well to 8000+.

BTW, Xona redesigned the CHRA in 2020 and it works well.

You could go down to 1300's and it will theoretically drive better. One thing to keep in mind is your car is professionally tuned with hours dialing in 2150's on the stock ecu. If the new map has the same amount of tinkering then it should drive better. I can tell you that when my car was on a standalone with ID1300's it was perfect.

ID1300's were out around 530whp for me on E85 on a dynojet.

If you go to a five speed I would get a 4.31 or 4.11 FD to calm down the gearing because you have a 2.3 engine. I've had both FD's and prefer the 4.11 with a wide powerband the 2.2 /Fp red has. The red comes on well by 3800-4000 on a 2.2 mivec engines and will even surge if you start at too low of an rpm or demand too much boost. A smaller turbo on a bigger engine will be even worse.

 

Thanks Abacus! It's good to be bitten by the mod bug again. I'll keep your words in mind as I proceed with these build updates. I actually have the 5 speed trans open and sitting on my bench right now to repair the diff drive ring gear, which tempts me to try out the MFactory 4.31. However, I heard that it will add some drivetrain noise. The reason why I went with the smaller turbo is because I want the car to be a mid-range monster. I do expect some negative side effects such as surging and engine choking, but after seeing the dyno charts of people throwing small turbos and bigger engines, I have to say that I am curious to experience that power band

ID1300's are tempting and it's nice to know they can move 530whp worth of fuel. I will have to think about investing in a set, especially if i'm getting retuned in the first place. Something tells me they will stay cleaner and more consistent than the 2150cc.

 

The turbo has arrived and the new SE lip is on it's way! With the stock turbo and stock 2.0 block I made 430hp and 414 torque on E85. With this turbo I am shooting for 500hp and 500 trq with the 2.3l on E85. That's slightly a bigger engine with slightly a bigger turbo so I hope it works out.