Thanks! Here are some more helpful pictures and progress shots.


This is the M18 x 1.5 banjo bolt. It looks almost too long in the picture but it fits perfect with the barbed fitting in place.


Barbed Banjo fitting. Don't want to overtighten or undertighten the clamp. They should be more than snug but less than the point where you can see hose material come out of the slots in the clamp.


Some wiring from the relay. The yellow wire powers the oil pump while the white and blue go to battery +12v



This is what you will find inside your car next to the clutch pedal to receive the wire that gets pushed through the grommet on the driver side inner fender well.



Where I choose to mount my relay. (Driver side shock tower using pre-existing holes). Do not drill a hole in your shock tower just to mount a relay.



Here is the optional oil return line location on top of the trans. I will probably be using this to fill the trans once I am done.

 

So I just finished dropping the 6 speed into the car. More detailed steps should be coming up soon. I'm exhausted!

 

Ok Gents,

I am ready to reveal my proof of concept and more general instructions. My goals with the setup of this transmission cooler is such that it be durable, easy to service, safe, weather proof, and cleanly installed to look like it is supposed to be there. The last thing you want is for a major component to fall off in the middle of the highway and leave your trans gears cooking. You must be very careful and overbuild your installation. I take no responsibility if something goes wrong.

Finished system minus plugging in the final lines.


Close up of oil drain banjo fitting installed


Here you can see where the smoothing of the outside of the fill hole comes in handy.


I decided to mount the pump itself to the back side of my ACD pump carrier. This would position the pump towards the inside of the car, keeping it farther away from the elements and debris. The electrical connections (+ -) were tucked into the OEM wire looms and brought up to there final connections (i.e. to the switched side of the relay with a fuse and the chassis ground). The mounting screws that the pump came with were too small for my liking so I took the pump apart and drilled/tapped the mounting holes for some 10mm bolts I had lying around, making sure they were not too long and did not hit the rotor. I also used a lock washer/flat washer combo to keep vibrations from rattling loose the pump. I don't think it would anyway because the threads I tapped were damn tight.




This is very good mounting point for the pump as it puts it in perfect line up with the oil drain hole of the transmission. In addition to this, you are placing the pump on part of the cars body that was specifically engineered to carry pumps. This could have design advantages of noise and vibration dampening. The earls in line filter was mounted in a perpendicular fashion to make up the distance between the transmission drain plug and inlet side of the pump. It ended up looking pretty clean.



Finally, there was a 10mm bolt hole right next to one of the radiator feet that I plan to mount the hose to to keep it tucked close to the underside of the chassis before terminating both ends at the heat exchanger. All of these components will be protected by my APR front splitter as it doubles as a robust undertray. All what is left to do now is overfill the trans, prime the pump, fill again, and let her rip!




That's it for now guys. Let me know if you have any questions about the install. There are many different ways to do this.

 

Thanks for the good detailed write up. This will definitely help me out when I do mine!

 

Happy to help!

 

Well, that gear style pump was loud as hell. Sounded like an electric can opener. I hate to say it, but the turbowerx spartan vein style pump could be the only reasonably quiet option. It cost more than my entire kit

 

After driving the 5 speed IX GSR for many years, the 6 speed makes me feel like i'm driving another car and cruising at 75mph with the tach just a hair over 3k is pretty awesome. I may do a 4.0 final drive upgrade when I send in the trans for the Albins 3-5, but for now I think that the 3k cruise is good.

A much quieter trans cooler pump is on the way. I can't bare driving around with a can opener bolted to the car.

 

Pal - A few of my customers cars have this pump. Its pretty quiet. Not sure how much you paid for your new one but it may be cheaper?

https://www.kartek.com/parts/tilton-...buna-pump.html

 

That's actually a great pump and is $60.00 cheaper than what I paid for my new one. That Tilton pump is a little larger, only a smidge louder and pumps a little faster than the TurboWerx. Space isn't limited here either so for those who are trying this out, the Tilton pump is an excellent option.

 

I just sent off my less than 3 year old JB Black to FP for a rebuild. Recently the car began to smoke blue between shifts and randomly at idle, indicating that it is once again burning oil. Looks like the turbo crunched something because there is some excessive shaft play and you can hear the turbine side rubbing on something when you turn the compressor wheel. I hope to have it back before the end of Feb.

 

 

Should have popped the housing off to see what was going on in there.

 

Oh man, the 6 speed is so nice on the freeway. I have the Albins upgraded set and had the whole bits REM isofinished and WPC treated. Looking forward to getting my car put together this year. Glad you enjoy it.

 

Double post

 

I agree 100%. I can't wait to one day install the Albins gear set. The 5 speed was nice for a long time, but after having the 6 speed for a few weeks I can honestly say that this was the transmission Mitsubishi should have focused on beefing up. It's a nicer daily driver trans and I think that with this trans cooler setup, the long term investment of the Albins gear set will pay off. I really hope that it will be good for the occasional high power goofing off.