So out fancy curiosity did map help u out in away?

 

Dang, I'm getting tempted to build a block with @Lumpy Sticks !

 

Nobody does haha. My engine builds were at least 2 years apart and this last one was super budget. 4g64 block is 300 bucks, crank is as low as 100 bucks. Rods and pistons were about 1k, but that was the highest expense. Machine work varies.

Nope, I ate it. However, if it wasn't for their mistake, I would have never developed the anger, motivation, and courage to learn to build motors myself. I had a good coach too (letsgetthisdone), but most importantly you have to take initiative. The rest was just reading, reading, reading. I did get to reuse all my hard parts aside from the piston ring set since nothing blew up. If it makes you feel better, one build does not necessarily represent everything that comes out of MAP. They still sell good parts and some have had no issues with their motors. There are some who do have issues and don't report it. What I can say now is that I don't notice any more oil burning and the motor sounds, feels, and drives better.

You guys should, you've both done it many times before haha. Building a block is fun! The only parts that suck are the machine work and cleaning.

 

This is the same reason I decided to start building my own engines. After working in the auto industry for as long as I have I've realized that most people doing this type of work are underpaid and unhappy. It's no surprise mistakes happen constantly, and the shops that do care are completely swamped and builds take months.

I really enjoyed reading this thread, and I'm really glad you posted everything with the detail you did. Definitely among the most enjoyable build threads I've read in a long while on EvoM. I'm looking forward to hearing more about your build, and I love seeing all the DIY stuff you're doing. The touch controlled mirrors and other stuff is absolutely badass! Love it, keep up the good work!

 

Thanks for all of the details. I was curious about why no one posts up about the map ultimate duty rods on this forum or anywhere. No info on them since 2011. But I think this helps me make up my mind n I’m gonna go with the Manley’s.

 

Do you care to share what books you read or the author of the books?

Thanks,

 

I have a friend who just had a car come into his shop with a MAP motor, same issue. Smoking like a chimney, oil collecting on the top of the pistons, using a quart of oil in <100 miles. Compression and leak down are good, turbo doesn't leak. It's now staying with them for a tear down. Probably a good bet its the same issue, upside down rings. This same friend has seen problem with several MAP engines. As well as their "stage5" ported heads that make less power than stock.

A local guy with an EvoX has a MAP motor. It doesn't seem to use oil or smoke, but it sounds he did a cummins 4bt swap with all the noise the engine makes....

Everyone should really just stay away from them.

 

Thanks Fox_IX, I appreciate that! I enjoy this hobby and don't mind sharing the results that come with it. I also have fun posting on this particular forum because it has actually helped me the most out of any other evo forum to date. As cheesy as it sounds, the mirror project was one of my favorites because I worked with my younger brother. The fun about it is having a 2006 Mitsubishi pull up to a 2019 Tesla and then automatically fold the mirrors from a keyfob. It shows that anything can be fitted to anything with enough determination. When an opportunity comes up to do something for the first time, particularly when it's not the end of the world if the project fails, i'll take the leap.


It's probably because the Manley "turbo tuff" I beams have been around longer and proven their strength for some time now. It's hard to choose the map rods if you already know the Manley's will do the job for sure.

Wish I could help with this, but I haven't picked up a solid book since I graduated back in 2014. ( A bit ironic hah? ) These days I spend my time reading data sheets and technical articles at work. All the reading I did to build engines came from this forum and jafromobiles youtube channel. My creative side is taken by piano and guitar, but nothing beats cutting your knuckles on the evo.


That's awful! One would think they would revise their practices after years of problems. It brings back bad memories of burning oil, the smell, the sinking feeling that your car could blow up if you don't top it off with oil every time you go to the gas station, the constantly fouling plugs .......ahhhh good times! XD

 

I have about 118,000 miles on the car now. I changed the oil last night and it came out dark as expected, but it seemed to keep most of it's lubricity. Currently using VR1 10W30 Synthetic and a Bosch oil filter with excellent results. I also threw in a new set of plugs and emptied the catch can. I now have about 23 quarts of used oil that I need to get rid of at an Autozone as soon as possible. This is left over from doing too many oil changes for everyone

 

Idle minds are a dangerous thing because you start coming up with silly ideas and more things to do. Consequently, more things to spend money on. After thinking about it for a while and talking to a few members, I have officially decided to make the switch to a true flexfuel system. This will protect me from off blends of E85 and make it so that I don't have to run almost empty in my tank each time I switch fuels. Map switching will be a thing of the past and I can add another good looking gauge to my car.

I decided to go with the Zeitronix ECA2 Ethanol kit with the hacker display so that I could replace my OEM dash clock with a real time ethanol content read out. I got the idea from a cool post on social media and I am not the inventor who found this neat little trick. There is no point in having both a clock in the radio set by GPS and one right behind it in the dash to conflict each other. This kit is awesome because once you have power situated, you only need to wire the output voltage wire of the ECA module to the ADC input pin of the OEM ECU and start your tune using those readings. The module receives the ethanol content in Hz from the sensor and it translates it to the digital display and an analog voltage.

The other item of interest was to get rid of my RS232 AEM UEGO wideband USB setup in favor of using the 5v analog output of the AEM gauge and splicing it in place of the rear o2 sensor signal line at the ECU. This is pin 73 for evo 9's and 75 for evo 8's, but you will need a tephra enabled rom for this to work. The formula in Evoscan I ended up using was [0.03913*x + 9.7], however it will change slightly for all of us depending on the voltage characteristics and grounding of your particular car.

I started by removing my factory CF trim panel and taking apart the clock. Here you can see the factory clock PCB, which is approximately the same size as the hacker display.




Once the factory clock was disassembled, I used small dabs of hot glue to secure the clock buttons into place so that there would be no voids. Without this they would simply fall into the clock. A larger amount of hot glue was also used to secure the hacker display itself into clock housing and a hole was drilled in the back to run the wire through to the ECA2 module. The black tinted plastic which covers that factory clock works perfectly with the hacker display.





Next I needed to address the flexfuel sensor itself. I decided to splice it into the factory return line right off the fuel pressure regulator. I used two 3/8" Quick Disconnect -6AN fittings and two -6AN to 5/16" barbed fittings to make this happen. In addition, I picked up a mounting bracket made for these continental ethanol sensors and was able to mount the entire assembly to the back of my intake manifold. I used a nylon spacer and an extended factory bolt so that the sensor was not resting directly on my EGR lines.



Other than this, I recently recharged my AC and replaced my wasted RE71R's with Michelin Pilot Sport 4s. They are quiet, comfortable, and sticky.





Up next is the mandatory retune!

 

Is there a failsafe if the car goes lean with that setup? Looks like you are in the country of California so an aftermarket ecu is harder to do.


I'm thinking about moving into the Pilot Sport 4s as well. Its a great tire.

 

Failifornia has so many epa/carb/smog rules that you have to keep all of your stock parts . I really like this tire so far and it surprises me just how predictable it handles even though they use two different compounds in it. As far as a failsafe goes, you'll get the standard items like cutting boost and pulling timing for high knock, but now that the Wideband is hooked up directly to the ECU, Tephra options allow us to cut boost and pull timing if a lean condition is picked up by the AEM UEGO gauge.

 

Who's providing your IX flexfuel ROM?

 

Going with English Racing once more !

 

How is this different than the FlexFuel kit English and TSComp sell?

Also, on my BMW, the PSS4's are usesless with no LSD and over 300whp. I loved them at 8 psi and hated them after.

Anyone ever try the Advan Neova's? I have RE71-R's for the Evo but the Hankook RS4's create too much road noise on my BMW.