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My rear main seal began to leak in November which caused my new clutch to start slipping. I decided to investigate and while draining the trans oil found this little surprise.
Against all odds the trans still shifts fine with no weird noises, but I think it's time for a rebuild. After Almost 120,000 miles at varying power levels, clutches, and multiple drivers, i'm not shocked that this 5 speed is starting to fall apart.
It looks like oil exposure over time causes clutch material to break off the 6 puck sprung disk. The area's that were not chipped off were plenty thick...the disk will need replacement. Another thing that could have caused this symptom is the adjustable radium engineering clutch stopper which is designed to prevent the TOB from popping out of the pressure plate during quick shifts. I did not adjust it for a while and could have had the clutch slipping without my knowledge. It was resting on the clutch fork pretty firmly.
To keep things interesting, I've decided to throw in a 6-speed and come up with a way to keep it alive for street duty. This is against what most people would do, but I think that it is possible with the Albins 3 -5 gear set and an active cooling system. A longer final drive and carbon synchros would also help with daily drivability. Despite my previous expectations, this car will likely never be on a track for the next several years. It has literally been a semi-daily driver that gets tossed around on the street from time to time while breaking peoples hearts and ruining their dreams XD. Now, more than ever, it's all about the fun of wrenching on a car. So for all you 6 speed evo guys, this one is for you.
I found an excellent location to mount a transmission cooler where it would clear the front bumper and not require a fan. I fabbed up an aluminum bracket to hold it in place. Instead of securing it to another heat exchanger such as the AC condenser or radiator, it is secured to a piece of aluminum flat stock which is bolted to the center intercooler mount, floating between the intercooler and AC condenser. To make this location available, you must slightly bend some hard lines out of the way that are under the front of the car. This will give you space to run your oil send and return lines.
Next up will be mounting the pump, fittings, in-line filter, and wiring to the inside of the car. The 6 speed shifter assembly and cable swap is done and only took a morning to complete.
Yes for trans cooled 6 speed! When I originally searched I never found someone that has actually completed a trans cooler setup for a 6 speed and documented the process, this should be interesting.
Yes for trans cooled 6 speed! When I originally searched I never found someone that has actually completed a trans cooler setup for a 6 speed and documented the process, this should be interesting.
Thanks! I've noticed that too. The other thing is that i'm building it to be a bolt on application so that no welding is required. Once it's completed i'll be pricing it out, but it's already much cheaper than I thought it would be. Both brackets for the heat exchanger are now completed.
Use only factory locations with these brackets so that you can always go back to stock .
I ran a single wire into the cabin of the car which will be on a switched to ground signal feeding one side of the relay coil. The best ways I found to do this is to use either the hole behind the glove box or the rubber entry point behind the fender liner of the driver side fender. Once you pop off the plastic rivets of the driver side fender liner it will all make sense.
Relay Pin out:
-Connect 30 and 85 to positive side of car battery
-Connect 87 (Normally open) to positive side of oil pump
-Connect 86 to a switch to ground which you have inside the car
*Be sure to ground the negative side of the pump in a good location!
I choose to mount the relay under the driver side strut bar because I had holes in my shock tower there already from a previous catch can setup. Zip tying it onto a wire loom next to the car battery using your best judgement would also work too.
Pal - For the trans lines, where do they plumb in to the trans? Are you just using the drain and fill plugs or did you have to drill and tap the case? I would really like to add a cooler to my 6 speed to help keep it alive on the track!
Pal - For the trans lines, where do they plumb in to the trans? Are you just using the drain and fill plugs or did you have to drill and tap the case? I would really like to add a cooler to my 6 speed to help keep it alive on the track!
Hi Lumpy Sticks,
For now, I am using the trans drain and fill bolt, however, there is another bolt on top of the trans that could also work for the fluid return instead of the fill bolt. It's right next to the gear linkages and slightly sunk in. Still an Allen bolt nonetheless. So far the only modification to the trans I had to make was smoothing an edge of the oil fill bolt location to allow the banjo fitting to sit flush on the copper gasket. I'll post come pictures about this sometime soon.
So far the parts I am using are:
-Two steel M18 x 1.5mm Banjo bolt barbed fittings
- One earls -6AN 140 micron in line filter pre-pump,
- Two -6an to barbbed fittings
- 12v AmarineMade oil pump with thermal shutdown protection
- Hayden Trans cooler (OC-1405)
- Bosche style relay
- Aluminum Flat stock
- About 10 ft 3/8" high temp oil cooler line should be plenty.
-Hayden Radiator ties
-Hose clamps
I got everything for $165.00 using a combination of amazon and local auto/hardware stores.
If this pump ends up being too loud, i'm going to swap for a smaller unit.
Thanks Pal! Huge help! I plan on doing mine with pushloc hose and -6an on everything. I really dont like hose clamps. I should have all the fittings and hose at work so the only thing I need to order is the cooler and pump. I will be following your thread to see the outcome before I start mine. Thanks again for the info!
Edit - Forgot to ask why you are going to run it on a switch instead of just ignition power? Or even better, make it activate off temp?
Thanks Pal! Huge help! I plan on doing mine with pushloc hose and -6an on everything. I really dont like hose clamps. I should have all the fittings and hose at work so the only thing I need to order is the cooler and pump. I will be following your thread to see the outcome before I start mine. Thanks again for the info!
Anytime, i'm glad I could help! Stay tuned to see if it all worked out
I would've splurged for AN lines and race fitting. Barbs and hose clamps always seem to eventually leak.
It's a nice touch, but the heat exchanger itself is barbed With a low pressure setup like this, I don't anticipate the need for AN fittings, but there is always room for improvement!
Thanks Pal! Huge help! I plan on doing mine with pushloc hose and -6an on everything. I really dont like hose clamps. I should have all the fittings and hose at work so the only thing I need to order is the cooler and pump. I will be following your thread to see the outcome before I start mine. Thanks again for the info!
Edit - Forgot to ask why you are going to run it on a switch instead of just ignition power? Or even better, make it activate off temp?
I mentioned switch for ease of installation, but I actually have the relay running to my radio head unit to be controlled through a touch screen when I smash on the car. This is similar to the power folding mirrors, but temp would be the smartest solution! My inner ricer wants to have screens and buttons to select XD
Oh ya, I forgot you had that fancy display thing! You could always double up and have it based off temp with a secondary bypass switch on your display. Just putting it out there!
Oh ya, I forgot you had that fancy display thing! You could always double up and have it based off temp with a secondary bypass switch on your display. Just putting it out there!
That's probably the better route to take of the two!
Jan 3, 2019, 02:33 PM
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