Super nice work for sure. Almost there brother!

Cheers, Joe

 

Just gonna drop this here

Block:
2.2 Bottom End – built and assembled by Curt Brown
K1 Technologies Billet 94mm Stroker Crankshaft
Manley Pro Series Turbo Tuff Connecting Rods (150mm with ARP 2000 bolts)
Wiseco 1400HD Forged Pistons (9:0:1)
Calculated Compression Ratio @ (9:3:1)
Buschur Racing Oil Pan

Head/Intake:
Port and Polished Cyl Head – assembled by Curt Brown
ARP +625 Head Studs
Kelford 272 cams
Kelford adjustable cam gears
Kiggly Racing Race Valve Springs
GSC Power-Division Intake and Exhaust Valve (STD Size)
Kiggly Racing HLA
4” to 3.25” custom turbo intake
KN&N Air Filter
Stock Intake Manifold
S90 70mm Throttle Body with adapter
HKS Racing BOV (Single Valve)
CSF Race Intercooler Core 8046
Treadstone Performance End tanks (3” outlets)
9FAB 2.75” Cold Side Intercooler Piping
9FAB 2.5” Hot Side Intercooler Piping

Turbo/Exhaust:
Turbonetics GTK550 – Ball bearing, oil and water cooled
ETS Equal length Tubular manifold
TiAL MVR 44mm wastegate
9FAB Custom 2.5” O2
9FAB Custom 3” to 3.5” to 4.5” exhaust
JM Fabrications 3” downpipe

Timing:
OEM Timing Parts and Pulleys
Cosworth Racing Timing Belt
Gates Accessory Belt
Fluidampr Performance damper

Cooling:
Koyo Evo 4/5/6 Rad (HH030939)
Cosworth Low Temp Motorsport Thermostat (20021033)
Samco Radiator Hoses
Derale Oil Cooler
9FAB Custom Oil Cooler Bracket
9FAB Custom Power Steering Reservoir and Cooler

Gearbox Drivetrain/Brakes:
Exedy HD Twin
ARP Flywheel Bolts
Buschur Racing built Evo 9 5 speed with straight cut 4th gear and billet torque tube
Rebuilt Transfer case with hardened steel rack and Pinion and Quaife Diff
Proline Braided Stainless Steel clutch line
B&M adjustable short shifter
Torque Solutions Shifter Bushings
Boosted Fabrication Evo 8/9 Chromoly Crossmember (90a Roll Stop Bushing)
Driveshaft Shop Aluminium Driveshaft
Centric Posi Quiet Pro Pads Front and Rear
Brakenetic Slotted Rotors
Proline Braided Bake lines
Russell Speed Bleeder on the Master Slave

Electronics/Ignition:
Colt Speed Centre Gauge Pillar
AEM X-Series Boost Gauge (35psi Max)
AEM X-Series Wideband Gauge
AEM X-Series Oil Pressure Gauge
AEM X-Series Oil Temp Gauge
AEM X-Series Water Temp Gauge
Greddy Profec B Spec II boost controller
Blitz Turbo Timer
JM Fab PC925 Small Battery Kit
9FAB Battery hardwire kit
JDC Coil-On-Plug Ignition System (Evo 4-8)

Fuel:
Walbro 535 (Hellcat Fuel Pump)
Fuel Lab AFPR with gauge
FIC 1100cc injectors

Suspension/Chassis:
BC Racing DS Coilovers with Swift 10k front and rear springs
Custom Bump Steer Correction Tierods
Whiteline Bump Steer Correction Balljoints
Whiteline drop links, front and rear
Whiteline front sway bar bushings
Energy Suspension Master bushing kit – F&R control/trail arm, sway bar F&R, rear diff
Cusco 3 Point Front Strut Brace with BCS Stopper
Cusco 3 Point Rear Strut Brace
Viamoto Rear Balljoint Set (6)

Tires/Wheels/Brakes:
Firestone Firehawk Indy 500 tires 255/35/R18
ESR Performance 18x9.5 +22 5x114.3 CS8 Wheels
Circuit Performance Aluminum Hub Centric Rings
Centric PQ (Posi Quiet) PRO brake pads
Russell Speed Bleeders

 

Alright everyone. Here are a few videos to keep things going for now. Apologies for the shortness of each video. I'm not a pro at this as yet, but everyone has to start somewhere right.




Things to note:
- The car has a bit of decel vibration. This should be sorted soon as I'm currently waiting on a driveshaft hanger bracket from the driveshaft shop. I must say Lee Mejia and the DDS Team took good care of me.
- The E-brakes need some adjustments, as you can hear in the incar video, there's some noticeable rubbing.
- I want to go back over the rear of the car, just to make sure everything that should be tight is tight.

Other than the above, the car feels really nice. We got to do a small 1,2,3 at 50% throttle, and lemmie tell ya...it wants to go!

I have a few small things begin shipped in, nothing overly important.

I'll update everyone once I'm back on my feet, as I'm currently stuck at home with the one thing that no one wants to have.

 

Man first starts are so exciting and rewarding. Salute from the USA!

 

Love it! Watched both Vids (sounds crisp, cammed and pipey)

 

Nothing Special here. But this is a lil something that we got from the attempted datalog.

 

Thanks man. Appreciate the support

Thanks. I'm here just patiently waiting to drive it so I can really hear it open up. Once I'm a free man (from isolation), and I get the bracket from DDS. I'll take some more videos. I'll be more prepared this time around, with a phone mount.

 

I'm a FREE man! Been out of isolation for a few weeks now, and right back to working on the car.
DDS Bracket was collected and installed. No more vibrations!

Drove the car home

Decided to get things in order to get myself a tuning Laptop. Downloaded Evoscan to have a look around the program.
Below is a video of the car idling. Did a log of that and sent that over to my buddy to revise the Base Map.

With that said. I set up an appointment with Jay from Boosted Tuning to tune the car on speed density.

I'm slowly getting there, one step at a time.

The current hold up is having the car inspected and licensed. Due to the car sitting for so long, It messed up the gauge cluster where only parts of it work.

For example:
1. If I turn on the park lights, they do not come on; but if I turn on the headlights; all lights come on and work fine.
2. The right side indicator will light up and make the usual tick tock sound, however, when I activate the left side it doesn't display of make any audible sound.
3. The speedo doesn't work, but the rpm, water temp, and fuel gauges work/read.
4. The odometer looks like crumpled up foil paper.

I'm leaning towards a bad cluster at this point, as all of these were working previously, and the harness was taken out and kept indoors while the car was under the knife, so it's not water damage. Also, while re-wrapping the harness, I was diligent to not cut into any wires.

If anyone has any insight on that, please share.

So with that said, I have a new to me Evo 9 GT gauge cluster on the way.

The To-Do List:
- Install the new horns I bought for the car.
- Glue back in the rear view mirror that keeps falling out.
- Finish putting the interior back together.
- Change the engine oil.
- Re-bleed the brakes and clutch.
- Tighten up the turbo feed, as it's sweating a tad.

This should be the norm by now lol, but I do have some packages on the way, one of which FedEx can't seem to find. Hopefully i get some headway on that this week.

Due to the speedo not working, I bought a new speedo sensor and gear.
While doing the base map we were experiencing some knock in very low rpms...so ordered a new knock sensor lol.
Collected these today.

I'll try do get some more details videos created. but for now, I hope you all enjoy these short videos and photos as much as me.





As always, thanks for the support everyone.

 

Hope you all had a good break. Coming in hot with an update for the new year

Previous To-Do List:
- Install the new horns I bought for the car.
This is finished, however they don't work lol, so I'm thinking maybe the fuse is bad for the horns.
- Glue back in the rear view mirror that keeps falling out.
This is finished as well, just needed some lube to slide into place.
- Finish putting the interior back together.
Still not done with this as I've just been all over the place during the break.
- Change the engine oil.
Got to do this. Car now has some 20w50 VR1 in there, about 5.8 qrts now with the oil cooler setup.
- Re-bleed the brakes and clutch.
Clutch is done and adjusted. A bit high for me, so will revisit this later. The brakes still need to be done though the car is reasonably drivable as is.
- Tighten up the turbo feed, as it's sweating a tad.
Turned out to be a bad restrictor fitting along with the supply line getting damaged when tightening the fitting.

Tuning Update:
Car is now being tuned on SD buy Boosted Tuning. It's still a work in progress but so much better now driving-wise.
We found that I had a few issues that I've since fixed.
- Rad Fan was constantly on due to a faulty FCM.
- Car would not come out of warm-up mode due to installing a racing low temp thermostat. Swapping back to an OEM thermostat fixed that.
- Waiting to receive a Grimspeed BCS. Once that's installed, we can go back and fine tune the car.

On my second 3rd gear pull and due to no idle data, the open loop area of the tune couldn't be populated. So after that pull along with hot temps, I think that forced the car to go into some kind of limp mode. Jay will sort that out I'm sure. So far my experience has been an awesome one. when it was driving, the car felt like a car again (I'm sure you all know what I mean lol).

Another issue I found was the SAS screw on the S90 backed out, along with a small boost leak on the area the IACV bolts up to. So that could have assisted with the drivability issues I was experiencing on the way back home. So I need to look into that.

In other good news. I got my new Gauge Cluster.


Out of the box.


After some sanding and polishing.


Installed.

New To-Do List:
- Install Grimspeed Boost controller solenoid.
- Take apart the S90 Throttle Body and RTV the leaking areas.
- Trace down the fuse for the gauge cluster to see if changing that makes the speedo work.
- Trace down the fuse for the horns.
- Install the rest of the interior
- Hook up rear doors and locks.





Bleeding the system.