another build v 2.4
#1
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
another build v 2.4
hi all so this is my second built motor first on was done in 2010 and went about 20k miles, till she let go at fontana speedway in CA "autoclub roval"
previous build here
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...dge-build.html
so after a year of procrastinating i just orderd a new buschur 2.4 and all new oem components had the head done and now am assembling the motor.
previous build here
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...dge-build.html
so after a year of procrastinating i just orderd a new buschur 2.4 and all new oem components had the head done and now am assembling the motor.
#2
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
my next task and the one im having the hardest time with is installing the timing belt. im using a new oem evo 9 belt with stock cam gears. im told this is possible but not sure exactly how to do it. any help would be greatly appreciated
#5
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
Intake cam doesn't even look close.
#6
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
ok so one should disregard the outer tooth settings and simply set the inner "cam" to roughly 3.75 retarded
Last edited by evo420; Nov 27, 2017 at 12:37 AM.
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#9
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
With a 4G64's taller deck what you need to think about is ignoring the outer ring. What matters is getting the cam positions lined up with the timing marks which comes from the indicated marks on the center ring. In your last set of pictures, Id guess your crank is off for those to now line up though.
If you think about the outer ring not mattering, it doesnt matter if you move the came gear forward or reverse cause you can just offset the opposite direction with a tooth on the belt. Just think about lining up the center. That, and 3.75deg is the standard offset with a 6mm taller block.
If you think about the outer ring not mattering, it doesnt matter if you move the came gear forward or reverse cause you can just offset the opposite direction with a tooth on the belt. Just think about lining up the center. That, and 3.75deg is the standard offset with a 6mm taller block.
#10
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
it is at tdc i confirmed with a rod on cyl 1.
i inserted a rod into cylinder 1 and positioned this large screwdriver to just ever so slightly make contact/ no light seen between.
when at tdc.
i inserted a rod into cylinder 1 and positioned this large screwdriver to just ever so slightly make contact/ no light seen between.
when at tdc.
Last edited by evo420; Nov 4, 2017 at 11:51 PM.
#11
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
well i got ahold of buschur racing and was told to just line the 0 mark on the inner cam marks withmarks on cover and advance both cams 3.75 deg. so what ever thats what i did. and now she is in there.
i have to get it past smog first so all stock piping and cat will be going back on till i can get it smoged.
i have to get it past smog first so all stock piping and cat will be going back on till i can get it smoged.
#13
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
ok i got it all in and running put all stock stuff on for smog got that handled. had some issues , like turbo drain pipe not lining up and leaking
i had taken the cam cover on and off somany times checking timing/valves i didnt notice one of the spark plug hole seals had fallen out. started it up idled ok. let it idle for 10 minutes topping of coolant. didn't see any leaks so i took it for trip around the block, pulled back into driveway walk into garage while its ideling suddenly it starts to stumble and shuts of, so i start looking around and find a massive amount of oil leaking! oh shiii!!. jack it up. looking every where looked like it was coming from back of motor. turns out the oil had been forced past the gap in the vc and head filled up every spark plug hole and over flowed the valve cover what a gd mess
now i need to replace the alternator belt tensioner its squeeking and making some $h!tty noise but other than that i got all my old mods back on
i had taken the cam cover on and off somany times checking timing/valves i didnt notice one of the spark plug hole seals had fallen out. started it up idled ok. let it idle for 10 minutes topping of coolant. didn't see any leaks so i took it for trip around the block, pulled back into driveway walk into garage while its ideling suddenly it starts to stumble and shuts of, so i start looking around and find a massive amount of oil leaking! oh shiii!!. jack it up. looking every where looked like it was coming from back of motor. turns out the oil had been forced past the gap in the vc and head filled up every spark plug hole and over flowed the valve cover what a gd mess
now i need to replace the alternator belt tensioner its squeeking and making some $h!tty noise but other than that i got all my old mods back on
#14
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
drove it about 20 miles with with several heat cycles changed oil. brad penn 20w50 as recomended by BR,
set wastegate duty cycle to 0 pulled out some timing and made a pull. 18.5psi-17 and 2deg peak load-12 out top
set wastegate duty cycle to 0 pulled out some timing and made a pull. 18.5psi-17 and 2deg peak load-12 out top