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Couldn't take the print brim, so removed it.... Based on the photos I think I am ok for rain intrusion. I think it came out pretty sweet. Certainly sounds amazing...
Love the custom bits for sure. Any specific reason for PP-CF over PA(6 or 12)-CF or PC-CF?
I need to print a custom intake and thinking of going with nylon-cf over my normal ASA Ive been using.
I was just watching a donut video about additive mfg and the fab house they used called out this Victrex AM 200 material as suitable for the automotive environment
That vid is kind of a joke. But at least for some its a primer.
Ive been printing for 8ish years with various filaments. The canards on my car are ASA printed for its UV stability. Plus a handful of others things. I was just curious specifically about the use of PP and why it was chosen.
Im going to use some CarbonX (PA6 + CF) for the intake pipe on my new setup.
That vid is kind of a joke. But at least for some its a primer.
Ive been printing for 8ish years with various filaments. The canards on my car are ASA printed for its UV stability. Plus a handful of others things. I was just curious specifically about the use of PP and why it was chosen.
Im going to use some CarbonX (PA6 + CF) for the intake pipe on my new setup.
Video wasn't the point.
I've been following since reprap, saw something new (to me), somewhat relative to what you were talking about, and thought I would share.
Couldn't take the print brim, so removed it.... Based on the photos I think I am ok for rain intrusion. I think it came out pretty sweet. Certainly sounds amazing...
So got some great questions from you guys, and I want to answer each.
1.) Why PP-CF over PA(6 or 12)-CF or PC-CF?
It is the CHEAPEST at about $80/750g (which by actual printable material is about 1kg of ABS) that also meets the strength and temperature requirements. I could have used ASA, or PC-ASA which I have in stock but not in black. The plus side is that it DOES NOT absorb water from the air, at all. So, there is wrestling with moisture creep and drying the filament. Lastly the 2nd pipe piece connects to the BOV, and EBC, but most critically it connects to the VALVE COVER where motor oil will be coming in contact. The material is FANTASTIC with an A-1 Excellent rating in contact with motor oil.
The compatibility chart is HERE
2.) Video link provided and mentions of Victrex AM 200 material as suitable for the automotive environment.
PEEK is a serious material for sure, but overkill for an intake. The price for 1kg roll is $595 !!! located HERE
The more serious the material, the higher the cost!
3.) What 3D printer are you using to do this?
The printer I am using to make this is not available off the shelf. It was born a QIDI I-Mates and has been reflashed with custom code and the entire extruder has been changed out with a high temp hot end (Phaetus Dragon) with different extruder motor (lighter - ldo orbiter 1.5) and rides on aluminum rods (lighter). With all this lightness comes speed, as I print at 100mm/s with PETG and ABS. I have two other printers, and the fourth being constructed now CAN be bought and is a rat-rig vcore3 available HERE And that unit is also enclosed and is sized at 400mm ^3 which is quite big. The KIT cost me over $2.1k and I have hardly had time to get it built as of yet. The entire dining room table has been taken over with a parts spread.
So got some great questions from you guys, and I want to answer each.
1.) Why PP-CF over PA(6 or 12)-CF or PC-CF?
3.) What 3D printer are you using to do this?
sized at 400mm ^3
Ahh, cool. Thats answers what I was curious about. The nylon or PC would both definitely need drying before use and the material fed within the heated enclosure (this is what I do). PP sounds interesting from that standpoint. Ease of use is always a huge perk.
And 400mm^3 is tiny, Like 7.5mm on each edge... lol. Im guessing units not right?
My Lulzbot Taz5 (circa 2017) is 10" (x) x 12" (y) x 12" (z) that I put in a basic ender based enclosure and use an extra light plus the heated bed and main element to create the heated enclosure. It gets to around 50-60c, not crazy hot but certainly better than no enclosure.
Ahh, cool. Thats answers what I was curious about. The nylon or PC would both definitely need drying before use and the material fed within the heated enclosure (this is what I do). PP sounds interesting from that standpoint. Ease of use is always a huge perk.
And 400mm^3 is tiny, Like 7.5mm on each edge... lol. Im guessing units not right?
My Lulzbot Taz5 (circa 2017) is 10" (x) x 12" (y) x 12" (z) that I put in a basic ender based enclosure and use an extra light plus the heated bed and main element to create the heated enclosure. It gets to around 50-60c, not crazy hot but certainly better than no enclosure.
400 mm is 15.75 INCHES so the print area is 15.75" x 15.75" x 15.75"
140F for your enclosure is better than what I see. My enclosed printers only kiss 120F for internal air temp when printing hot materials. But that is only heated by the bed itself, with no extra helper heater. Materials like PP-CF don't care, and that makes it easy to work with.
I have a Lulzbot Taz6 at work, and it is painfully slow because the extruder assembly is the size of my head!
Printing at 100mm/s is a game changer, and I expect the VCORE-3 printer to print faster than that.
400 mm is 15.75 INCHES so the print area is 15.75" x 15.75" x 15.75"
140F for your enclosure is better than what I see. My enclosed printers only kiss 120F for internal air temp when printing hot materials. But that is only heated by the bed itself, with no extra helper heater. Materials like PP-CF don't care, and that makes it easy to work with.
I have a Lulzbot Taz6 at work, and it is painfully slow because the extruder assembly is the size of my head!
Printing at 100mm/s is a game changer, and I expect the VCORE-3 printer to print faster than that.
Heh, you said 400mm^3 :P. But I get the size you're saying now. Yeah, that's big. I could definitely use more space for some of the things I have going on.
I print on the Taz5 at 100-120mm/s. Standard settings are 60, but lots of people are pushing it much further.
I looked up that VCORE-3, looks like a pretty sweet setup. I dont really know anything about the specific hardware parts in the options but 400 or even 500mm area would be so nice to have.
So I've been chasing a cylinder 4 misfire / multi-cylinder misfire for over a year... Maybe even 3 years....
1.) Replaced injectors with FIC 1650's (from FIC 1200's)
2.) Replaced Spark Plugs (NGK of course)
3.) Replaced all four coil on plugs (COP) with OEM units from dealer
It is coming up FASTER after an ECU code reset now. Sometimes as quick as TWO starts & runs of the car.
I'm open to any ideas on what the problem is, since I have replaced everything I would think that would be related.
The car is running fine, idle is sometimes a bit rough (on more % gasoline) but I am still smoothing out cranking tables, etc as the tank transitions from E80 to E17 to E10.
So I've started to dabble in FORGED CARBON FIBER, which I think is just simply amazing.
Half the weight of aluminum and as strong or stronger than titanium! Lamborghini trademarked the name of it in 2013 or so, and it allows much easier construction of carbon based parts, and also with more complex three dimensional shapes. I'm thinking of replacing my strut bar with a custom one made from this! I just received my two 6061 12"x12"x0.25" plates for compression of a mould that size.
Started by making an EXAMPLE brake lever. With a detailed inspection I see I didn't get carbon into a deeper part of the mold, but overall it went well. The printer that makes the moulds was also not set to optimum layer height (or even a nozzle switch out to 0.2mm). So you do see layer lines in the final part from the 3d printed PETG mould (three piece design).
My EV6 died yesterday driving 35mph down the road. I heard a POP and then the dash declared an electrical problem. I coasted into a bowling alley.
Maybe Tesla has the batteries figured out (but Hyundai - Kia doesn't apparently), but for a car with a total tag of $58k (with taxes) not being able to operate beyond 5,900 miles is unacceptable.
Absurd really.
They tow it tomorrow morning to the dealer. I don't want it now, and I bought it outright. So, this will get interesting. Reading online it is likely a battery cell failure.
My brothers, brother-in-law is a body shop repair guy. He says the Teslas are built like a joke, and to stay away from them.
I'm going to secure a rental via the dealership in the morning, to avoid taking my Evo out of storage (and putting the snows on it).
I am learning a hard lesson.
These electric cars are not ready yet!
Long live the dinosaurs... er... their oil remains I mean...
My EV6 died yesterday driving 35mph down the road. I heard a POP and then the dash declared an electrical problem. I coasted into a bowling alley.
Maybe Tesla has the batteries figured out (but Hyundai - Kia doesn't apparently), but for a car with a total tag of $58k (with taxes) not being able to operate beyond 5,900 miles is unacceptable.
Absurd really.
They tow it tomorrow morning to the dealer. I don't want it now, and I bought it outright. So, this will get interesting. Reading online it is likely a battery cell failure.
My brothers, brother-in-law is a body shop repair guy. He says the Teslas are built like a joke, and to stay away from them.
I'm going to secure a rental via the dealership in the morning, to avoid taking my Evo out of storage (and putting the snows on it).
I am learning a hard lesson.
These electric cars are not ready yet!
Long live the dinosaurs... er... their oil remains I mean...
My mk6 Golf R did the same thing to me. Cars break down. Seems a bit nuts to say Electric cars aren’t ready yet because of it. Plenty of 100k+ mile Teslas and other EV’s running around, just like ICE cars.
