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Old Dec 27, 2021 | 05:32 AM
  #196  
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What kind of installation issues can there be with a manifold? It is a solid piece of cast stainless steel. I believe the only "trick" if it was one, was to leave the upper passenger side stud in place and use a "jet nut" in that small amount of space. Otherwise it is has been a rock solid piece. I just think that the ARTEC by visual inspection seems to be better by: equalized runners vice to shorties, and proper runner diameter versus MAP going LARGE.

Here is where I got the jet nut from:

JET NUT
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Old Dec 27, 2021 | 02:30 PM
  #197  
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I am happy with the manifold. It seems like a well made piece.

The installation issues were the washers used between the manifold and turbo. They were all installed incorrectly despite me stressing their importance multiple times.

I wasn't able to remove the bolt on the passenger front side, the one you recommended the stubby wrench for. I was able to loosen it but it seems the manifold must be out of the car to get the bolt in and out. Not the end of the world, just more time consuming.

Looking forward to hearing your impressions on the ARTEC. When do you think you will be able to start assembling everything?
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Old Dec 27, 2021 | 05:52 PM
  #198  
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Since I live in NY, the weather is crap until April/May. With that said, I need to ship everything to Boostin for the block build, and have a local shop pull the SST and send to SSP. This entire thought terrifies me, as I have always done all my own work... from tuning, turbo parts choice & rebuild, fabrication, etc. I have been at this game a LONG time, and I once had a shop keep my car for an entire summer just for a block rebuild, and clutch install... then they smacked it up "testing everything"... I kid you not. They told me to put it through my insurance, that it was MY PROBLEM. The shop was called "SlowBoy Racing". I believe they are gone now. Because I've always done my own work, and planned everything out, I don't have another car! Which is nuts when I have literally changed everything about the car. So now I need to pickup some other vehicle for at least a few months.
So my goal is to have everything built and wrapped up by May.

Option 2 - throw in the ARTEC and GTX3076RG2, boost-a-pump, injectors, custom MAF & AFE filter and just run it for a summer. I obviously wouldn't be able to put it on full blast. I'll start by seeing how quickly the block gets done at Boostin.

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Old Jan 5, 2022 | 07:09 PM
  #199  
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Option 2 looks like the forward plan.

The ARTEC manifold is in (well the closet that is), and it is something else. I will upload some close up pics, because the casting is pure art (compared to the MAP which was internally quite rough).
I cannot seem to find a beater car to get me by for a few months to do a block and trans upgrade, combined with a SCREW in my pilot super sports I am thinking of leaving the block and trans in place.
With Ohlins coilovers and new rubber, the new turbo, MAF, injectors, and boost-a-pump I could focus on handling and keep the torque in check for a year or so.
I cannot make myself spend 10k for a piece of crap car. Back in the good-ol days you could get a beater car that would last months for 1k. Those days are long gone. The car market is just NUTS right now.


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Old Jan 6, 2022 | 05:57 AM
  #200  
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Originally Posted by Jaraxle
Option 2 looks like the forward plan.

The ARTEC manifold is in (well the closet that is), and it is something else. I will upload some close up pics, because the casting is pure art (compared to the MAP which was internally quite rough).
I cannot seem to find a beater car to get me by for a few months to do a block and trans upgrade, combined with a SCREW in my pilot super sports I am thinking of leaving the block and trans in place.
With Ohlins coilovers and new rubber, the new turbo, MAF, injectors, and boost-a-pump I could focus on handling and keep the torque in check for a year or so.
I cannot make myself spend 10k for a piece of crap car. Back in the good-ol days you could get a beater car that would last months for 1k. Those days are long gone. The car market is just NUTS right now.
Having been through the whole build thing, I encourage you to just enjoy the car until you really have to do a build. Life is short. I wasted a year plus on that BS.
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Old Jan 7, 2022 | 08:43 AM
  #201  
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Originally Posted by razorlab
Having been through the whole build thing, I encourage you to just enjoy the car until you really have to do a build. Life is short. I wasted a year plus on that BS.
yup then you get the phobia of not wanting to drive it because something may break.
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Old Jan 7, 2022 | 06:49 PM
  #202  
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I have a shop lined up to build the block with the parts I have (BOOSTIN). I have a local somehwhat performance shop that will swap the block and ship the trans to SSP for clutches. So logistically I had the resources I need, the problem is acquiring a low cost car that I would just resell later. I have 67kmi on the engine, and the trans has never been overheated. Knock has always been controlled and so the engine hasn't been abused in that sense.
So if I just throw all these parts in, minus the block and trans... I wonder if I can even make more power than I am now without risking breaking the SST or rods/pistons. Hence the idea of new rubber and ohlins for this season.
About the rubber situation. The pilot super sports have another season left in them. However, one tire has a screw in the middle of the tread. Would you track your car with a proper INTERNAL patch in a tire?
I have read mixed feelings on this subject. They were GREAT years ago, but there are much better choices now. I have my heart set on SuperCar 3 tires, as I have heard and read fantastic things about them as a mega high performance summer (& track) tire...
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Old Jan 9, 2022 | 05:10 PM
  #203  
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Here is the ARTEC manifold. I requested a quote from a business for Inconel shielding and they came back with $640 for the turbine housing and $799 for the turbo manifold.
That seems high to me, but I have never paid for that type of service.





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Old Jan 9, 2022 | 05:36 PM
  #204  
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For reference, here is what I paid for my Inconel shielding back in 2017, but everything is more expensive now...

Since it looks like that manifold has mounts for the OEM heat shield, why not just use that for the manifold?





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Old Jan 12, 2022 | 05:16 PM
  #205  
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The stock shield doesn't stop the heat from hitting the compressor housing at all. It only protects the engine bay. A lot of heat (and thus power) is lost through compressor housing heat absorption.
The same shop you used just quoted me:TURBO SHIELD = $ 375.00

MANIFOLD SHIELD = $ 388.00
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Old Jan 12, 2022 | 05:30 PM
  #206  
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Originally Posted by Jaraxle
The stock shield doesn't stop the heat from hitting the compressor housing at all. It only protects the engine bay. A lot of heat (and thus power) is lost through compressor housing heat absorption.
The same shop you used just quoted me:TURBO SHIELD = $ 375.00

MANIFOLD SHIELD = $ 388.00
Use them, I had a great experience with them. Top notch work.
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Old Jan 12, 2022 | 06:55 PM
  #207  
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Do you have to disassemble the turbo to have inconel shield done?
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Old Jan 13, 2022 | 11:17 AM
  #208  
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Originally Posted by RobbieOh
Do you have to disassemble the turbo to have inconel shield done?
No, they did mine with it all together.






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Old Jan 13, 2022 | 05:46 PM
  #209  
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So I bought some of the Inconel material that they use (and it comes with Inconel wire). I will just protect the runner closest to the compressor housing, and then use the OEM shield on top of that. I really just want to cut down on what gets absorbed by the compressor side.
They do look like they perform great work though!


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Old Jul 16, 2022 | 06:27 PM
  #210  
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Everything stalled because in order to take my EVO X to its final EVOLUTION it needs to have the block replaced and trans upgraded. In order to make that happen I needed a DAILY DRIVER... Yes my EVO X has been my track toy, fun toy, and daily driver since new in '12.

For the daily grind I picked up an EV6 WIND-AWD with Tech Pack....


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