Setrab units are the best. However, I would say that Derale is 85%+ of the quality for near half the price. I have not been disappointed.

 

Jaraxle, what Recirc Valve do you use? I looked through the thread but couldn't find it, from a pic in your sst cooling/heating thread it looks like a Synapse but not sure. Thanks!

 

Correct, synapse. It is a fantastic unit. However, that company seems to be in a strange state right now. Their website has been wack'd for some time now with certificate errors and paypal won't even work. The original owner who has the patents has moved on and apparently he sold the company to some other entity. I have been trying to purchase from them through a 3rd party and have failed multiple times. I have an order right now actually for a weld-on BOV adapter, as I am thinking of going speed-density and will move the BOV to the stainless steel outlet pipe right after the outlet of the turbo. I would recommend going elsewhere for a BOV, which is sad to say because it is such a solid design.

 

I'd highly recommend the Tial QRJ with a 1.5 PSI spring if you can't find a synapse.

Best BOV I have ever used.

 

JackBlack,
When you ran it like this for 80kmi, was the clutch pack OEM ? How hard and often did you lay into it at this power level ? I'm thinking of seeing if the stock block will hold together at this level with the stock clutch pack. The block is in, crank is ordered, and I have BOOSTIN lined up to build my block. But I would want to do the HEAD, and the TRANS which is more coin. Maybe I can get away with a year using the upgraded fuel, turbo, on the stock block..... maybe...

SPECS for the new block:

RED DARTON MID sleeved block
Cosworth 87mm 9.2:1 pistons
Carrillo Super A-Beam rods
ACL bearings
BC 87mm headgasket
ARP main studs
balanced and blue-printed rotating assembly

 

This was my second choice from all the reading I've done, seems to work well with the SST.

 

I would say I drove the car to the aggressive side than mild. I didn’t daily it per say unless it was spring or fall, since the ac is deleted. I tracked the car a lot and also would roll race it a whole lot hence when it popped I wasn’t that mad because it put in work. The motor itself had about 115k on it when it let go. Clutches were the SSP sidewinder aka 10 plate setup. From my understanding the OEM packs wouldn’t last at that power with the way I was running the car.

My advice is to do everything at the same time, if you are gonna drop the built motor might as well do the trans at the same time. Then you don’t have to have that anxiety of when you do drive and race “is this going to be the day the packs melt”. Idk who you have doing the work but I know that’s a factor as well. I was fortunate with MOORE as they service SST in house. Since everything was out of the car to do the motor this go around I went ahead and upgraded the trans to the 12 plate set up.

 

QRJ is the best hands down especially for SST cars.

 

December '21 Status & Updates:

1.) FIC 1650's in route (super great black friday deal, so jumped on them vice ID)

Parts IN HAND:

1.) GTX3076R GEN 2
2.) Electric fuel pressure gauge and adapter to tie into the -6an feed line
3.) Electric boost gauge that goes to 45 psi (because 30psi probably isn't going to cut it)
4.) RED Darton MID wet sleeved block for 87mm pistons
5.) Cosworth 87mm pistons
6.) Carrillo Super A-beam rods
7.) Kenne bell boost-a-pump
8.) AFE Pro Dry S huge air filter
9.) SKEET hose in sizes for 4" turbo inlet, stock turbo, and moving of the BOV
10.) Carbon fiber a-pillar single "lo-mount" cup
11.) BC 87mm headgasket
12.) Brand new OEM crank

I spoke with SSP for upgrade plans regarding the SST and the plan is to do a "stage 3" upgrade/refresh and pinning or welding the magnets to the forks.
BOOSTIN Performance is going to accept the block, crank, pistons, rods and build the shortblock.

WHO should I be using to build up the head, and how far do I need to go with headwork to reach my goal of 600 to 650hp to the wheels ?
Does anyone have feedback on the work that BOOSTIN is planned to do (building a shortblock, balance / blueprint) ?


I never take pics of the car, but I bumped into this one and here she is:

 

So what made you choose the Super A over the H beam? Iirc the pricing is the same and the H is the stronger rod….

if you talked to Kris at SSP you should be good to go as far as the SST stuff I haven’t had any issues. Just make sure you check the basket, we did have to get another one for my car the first one wasn’t correct. But Kris promptly addressed it.

As far as the head does Boostin not do those? I had my entire block done by darton east aka arfab.

 

You will also need to upgrade your MAP sensor on the manifold if you plan on going over 31-32psi. The Ecu uses it for control. Honestly, I don't see a reason to go higher with the turbo you are planning on running.

Other than cams/springs/retainers, you really don't need to do anything. I was on a 100% stock port head with Kelford B cams with upgraded springs/retainers and the car easily made over 600 and pulled to 9k.

If you do really want to port the head, oversized valves and all that (which I have now), I can't recommend Arlington Machine in Riverside, California more. They did an amazing job on my head and reasonable prices. https://www.instagram.com/arlington_machine/

 

I had it in my mind that keeping the stock MAP sensor with a SST is risking hitting the limit of the sensor causing the clutch packs to open up at the worst time.
The stock MAP sensor is good for up to 32 psi? I thought it was around 29psi and anything higher is a risk.

So what you're saying is that the stock MAP sensor is good up to 32psi and there is no reason I would be above that with the turbo I bought?

I was going to pickup a spare Evo X head and have it built with oversized valves and whatnot, but based on your results maybe I can skip blowing 2k on head work.

 

I chose the Super A beam because it is LIGHTER. Based on my research they are not a risk of breaking at my planned level either. Thanks for the tip about the basket, and I might have BOOSTIN do the head work too, I just don't know what their reputation is exactly.

 

With proper scaling, it will read around 31-32 max.

For the driving you do, and your way of thinking, I'm assuming you are not a "max kill" kind of guy, so driving that GTX higher than 30-31 isn't something you will be doing much. Maybe I am wrong, hahah

Honestly I wouldn't even bother. The 4B11 head is pretty darn good as is.

 

I have the 4 bar map sensor, even when I was on the 3076. But I’m no tuner so I have no idea of the true intricacies on SST.

I have the GSC valvetrain on my build so valves thru cams. Idk I feel like if you’re confident in them doing the rotating assembly why not the head?

where do you live?