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So Ohlins and RPF1s are on my to-do list over the next two years. Ohlins first, but I plan to run something like 3.5* camber up front and 2.5* out back, starting out then going from there based on tire wear, but this will be autox setup.
MIS Mi10S1 includes spherical upper mounts. MIS Mi10S1 has a target ride height reduction of 25mm front and rear.
MIS Mi10S1 front spring rate: 100 N/mm.
MIS Mi10S1 rear spring rate: 80 N/mm.
So got around to installing the Ohlins and Oh-MY, I should have bought these SOOO much sooner.
She sits nice (not like a pickup truck), and since I'm not running it in SNOW anymore, I can be this low and leave it that way.
I need to look up what a good middle ground (between street and track) setup would be for camber and toe since I now need a new laser alignment.
Multiple track days or even a lot of autocross events will eat the tires quickly. When I was doing some partial-DD with a few track days per year I found it best to go all in on the track alignment. The wear from street use was minimal relative to the 160 minutes of track driving I could get on a single weekend. I was also going through 1-2 sets of tires per year, so YMMV.
I only do a handful of events a year. Five max I would say, but I am curious what your alignment setup numbers were. I am looking to burn these tires up, and get the Re-71rs back on there. I just cannot believe the level of fender roll that appears to be needed for these RPF1 +15s.
Five weekends at the track could be enough to consume a set of 200TW tires depending on how many sessions you run.
I think I ran -3.2 camber up front when I was doing some double duty.
As for the fenders: Get camber set first. Each degree of camber is going to move the top of the tire inward about 0.22". Two additional degrees of camber will pull it in almost a half inch.
The tire will also tuck inward as it moves up. You'll have to manually move through the suspension stroke with the spring removed to see it.
Took the RPF1's off after only 100 miles on them. I am not willing to roll the fenders as much as what appears to be needed.
So if anyone is interested - pretty much brand new; box and covers included...etc...
The RE-71RS rubber will get moved to the gold Konig wheels on there now.
I'm burning up the pilot super sports tomorrow at NY Safety Track.
Wow - I wasn't sure anyone was reading my stuff these days. If you have any questions, just post them here. I have learned a lot of lessons (some the hard way) and I hope my thread helps people with their build!
The car isn't done, she is just sleeping for the winter. She will continue to go through EVOLUTION and eventually will make it to my vision for the final form....
Keep up the great updates. I'm still in the planning stages of my EvoX MR... Incorporating a lot of your ideas and results into my build.
Just remember the weakness of the TC-SST is OVERHEATING. There is some glue holding a magnet on the shift forks. If the trans is allowed to overheat, that is what damages it.
Invest UP FRONT in massive cooling and my experience that with tranny fluid changes every 20kmi you can beat the heck out of the trans and it can take it. Torque holding can now even be increased with a TC-SST reflash (which I did).
Right now im debating on getting a tune b/c I had to upgrade my IC due to a road gater incident. I purchased the car with a cobb dongle. but no idea who to trust.
