I'm selling my accessport on here, and what makes it different is it is loaded with a TON of COBB OTS tunes (like all of them) before COBB folded like a cheap suit and removed all of them.

And so this guy (won't name him), just messages me and says this:

"I am interested, but how can i confirm that it has been unmarried from the car it was on previously?"

I'm not sure how you can 100% confirm.... if I was indeed a dirtbag scammer who has been on the forums here for over a decade waiting for this moment to sell a married cobb unit and then run into the mountains laughing like a mad man.....

Any suggestions ?

 

It is whether the install option is available in the menu.

Here is a guide:
https://www.cobbtuning.com/buying-a-used-accessport/

 

I see 8 MAPs listed on COBB site

 

COBB was forced to remove a lot of maps and software options a few years ago: https://www.cobbtuning.com/green-spe...te-april-2022/

They still have some maps available, but many of the pre-update features and maps have disappeared.

 

That is why I thought my COBB accessport listing would sell like a hot cake. It has ALL the maps... Before they got nabbed by the FEDS.
So you can do bolt on stage1-4 using similar or recommended parts and off you go....Tune will be rich but it will get you around until you can have it tuned proper.

 

I suspect the market for people who have an Evo X but haven't yet started modding it is very, very small. Probably a waiting game at this point.

 

I finally got around to tuning the SST to another level. I bought the 6DCT470 SST TCU Mod Rom upgrade from evoscan site. I believed the clutch packs were slipping (should have logged to check but knew I would need to tune it more anyhow), so I went straight for a 7% clutch pressure increase and started working with the SST specific tables. I have been running on COBB Stage 4 SST maps for a few years, and they were close enough that both 20g turbos I ran were within margin. With the GTX3076R Gen2 in there and E85 I know I'm at the limit of the block and engine. But that is the PLAN, to have a much fun running the stock block and SST at the limit. With that said, I also bought the over 200 page guide on SST tuning and all I can say is AMAZING and CHAOTIC.... It is amazing because the guys did their homework and do an analysis on the components and factory settings (limits) and really dive into ALL the details of DCT shifting. It is CHAOTIC because tables they refer to are mistakenly labelled and when you are talking about data tables in the ECU that can be the difference (at times) between happy rods and flying rods. It is also chaotic because there isn't really a SMOOTH manual guiding HOW TO tune the SST in a methodic manner to lead to success. So, I literally spent 1-2hrs a night reading the manual for two weeks before I even changed a single table!
The results: my very first attempt the shifts are SO MUCH SNAPPIER and HARDER that it feels more like a modern PDK. The slow rolling clunk I would get (shift 2 to 1) is gone (again; another random mention in the manual about that! - noticed it and it worked!). Anything below half throttle and it falls back to the COBB (section of) maps that have worked fine for years...
Not sure a video would translate the experience

 

That tuning guide is well worth the $$$. But, what an accurate description!

 

Came across these pics in my google photos and thought to share.... So when the GTX3076R G2 went in, I already shared on the 3d printed INTAKE and MAF housing, etc I designed and printed in carbon fiber... But I skipped the part where you are also on your own for the BOOST outlet hose (just a coupler is provided in the kit)! 3d printing came to the rescue again! I made a few prototypes to test the best bend radius that would miss the firewall with a bit of margin (maybe a finger thickness). I attached the plastic test piece the to the gold wrapped piece with a straight piece of metal and zip ties and dropped it off. He then had the exact template of what to TIG weld up. Anyhow, it fit like a glove first time and I never mentioned here how that was handled....




Fit perfect!!!

 

First test of my new 3d scanner / laptop setup. Man I love ASUS laptops....I have a vision to make a product for the Evo X, even though it is an OLD and DYING platform
I could move forward with offering my 4" intake but how many people out there are bolting brand new GTX Garrett turbos on Evo X's and optioned the 4" OEM style inlet !? Probably not many at all.

 

Uhh gtx turbos are old tech by now lol the G series is the way to go now. lol

 

Are people even doing THAT these days!? I really wanted CAST stainless as well... Which is near impossible: Manifolds

 

Garbage get yourself a good manifold jm fabs, ets etc. cast is way heavy and it still cracks.

 

Which 3D scanner are you using?

Scan looks great from a high level. Looks like it had no problem with the smooth and uniform parts.

 

Interesting that you stated the opposite of what I believe to be true. Of course, it depends on the metalurgy which ARTEC gets on the money (I remember researching it as compared to MAP manifold).
Welded up manifolds are more prone to cracking at the weld joints, especially with dramatic heat cycles as occurs in the North East.

I have been very happy with my ARTEC manifold which retains the twin scroll, as the GTX3076R Gen2 is also twin scroll but with a turbine housing nearly 2x the size of the OEM MHI one.
PICS from earlier in this build thread:





My first choice would have been a G series with TWIN SCROLL but you cannot buy such a beast unless it is a welded-up manifold which I was avoiding for reasons stated above.
I have seen -20F on the dash of my car sitting in the parking lot at work, and the turbo and manifold would be glowing when I got home. That is HARD on weld joints, really hard to have that kind of heat cycle range change.
ARTEC units are single cast pieces (unlike MAP which has cast pieces welded together).