When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Oh yeah didn't realize you didn't have a flex-tune, but yes that's the way to go tbh. I ran dual map on my car so 93 and e85, my 93 tune being less aggressive than the e85 and depending on which area I was traveling in I would run one map over the other. I've had the flex kit installed in my car for years now, but because my car isn't my daily my tuner nor myself saw the need for the retune, I just wanted to be able to read the content, but now I'm going flex since I'm changing things on my car and have to get tuned anyway.
Ran New York Safety Track again on Monday. This time I was on E85, instead of E60. The pilot super sports did not do great at all, and got a little greasy once some heat was in them (spun out once, but didn't hit anything). I never put the SPAL fan on the oil cooler so oil temps did reach up to 250F and that is when I would pit in and let her cool down. SST reached as high as 239F but no issues with overheating or shifting. I truly believe cooling is the most critical component to SST longevity. My best time was 1:47 and unfortunately this was not enough to beat my mustang driving brother who ran a 1:44. Once the track was dry I turned all traction control aids off, and that was much better and could really feel the capabilities of the chassis at the limit. The video below was not my best lap, but only slower by 1 second (1:48).
My brother beat me that day with a 1:44 to my 1:47. There was much trash talk and arm flapping, but I just decided that with pilot super sports (old too), and stock struts that there is no way I was going to get him.
So I found the data/video for the last lap I did at NYST. Here is the last 40 seconds, and you can see the laptime at the bottom. I was going to AT LEAST tie him if the tires didn't let go. They did let go, so I'm not saying I won. What I am saying is this WAS a clean lap with no TRAFFIC and it sure looks like a 1:44 MINIMUM. Anyhow, I posted this on Instagram to joke around with him and if you watch it you might get a kick out of it too.
After leaving the car AS it was for quite some time (hard to believe), I decided to pull out of COBB entirely. I wanted REAL full flex fuel, and so with the help of @razorlab my '12 MR is finally able to handle any alcohol content thrown at it.
I have to admit there was quite the learning curve going from AccessTuner to ECUFlash. However, the capabilities added with the platform far out weigh that lift. I'm still having some abrupt off throttle jank with the SST, but it isn't bad and perhaps it is some deviation from the MAP/MAF tables.
capabilities added with ECUFLASH and patchwork:
1.) FULL FLEX FUEL SUPPORT (injector scaling, fuel map scaling, timing scaling, cranking scaling, etc).
2.) PSI based boost control
3.) boost compensation for ambient temperature (seasonal) changes
4.) boost compensation for elevation changes (keep your power in the mountains - IF you can!)
5.) boost tuning for SST upshifts
6.) massive performance increase for logging
7.) constant logging with OBDII connector - still haven't figured that one out yet
Looking to take the car to the next level within the next 18months.
So I picked up Carrillo Super A beam rods, and Cosworth pistons. The reason I went with Cosworth is because they are between 2618 and 4032 and since I daily my car it sometimes is -4F outside. I cannot have the slap and oil burn of 2618 pistons. I think I can keep the Cosworth pistons alive since they are better than 4032 and I am careful to avoid knock.
RED in California is building me a Darton wet sleeved MID block.
My fuel pump of 350 liters/hr drops to around 300 at 33psi. It is really close, so I am going to throw a boost-a-pump at it. This way I can have the stock computer still control the low/hi voltage change, but the high voltage change will just be 17v instead of 13-14v.
Cosworth and Carrillo make a good pair
For the turbo I am all over the place.
I want a CAST manifold. Period.
The MAP and AMS manifold that allows any v-band turbo under the sun to be bolted up isn't available anymore.
This leaves me with a stock frame; say the GTX3576R gen2 or go with the ATP T4 divided cast manifold with a G-series turbo or Borg EFR.
The injectors will be bumped up from FIC 1200's to ID1700's.
Kozmic will have to upgrade the SST.
Head will get GSC S2 cams, and be refreshed.
The ATP manifold is odd in that the exhaust pulses all seem to collide and then either go UP for the wastegate or DOWN to the turbo. Even the OEM one has a bit of a curved transition. This one does not, just a straight divider wall.
But with that manifold I can do literally any G-series or EFR and have it be TWIN scroll divided.
Picking a turbo depends on your end all power goal matched with the fuel system. I love the stock frame turbos matched with the SST. I originally ordered a 3576 for my build but my shop switched to the 3582 instead. I can’t really speak to manifold aspects as I’ve run only tubular manifolds outside of a pure stock turbo set up. Had great success with the full race pro stock manifold.
The massive heat cycles that a daily in the North East experiences WILL crack a tubular manifold. I am bumping my fuel system up to match my goal of 600whp+ as mentioned.
The question is whether to keep the MAP manifold or try the only other remaining cast manifold out there, that I cannot seem to find ANY data on.
With that T4 divided manifold I can use a precision turbo but it has to be the 5862 Gen 2 in order to be a divided T4, and I can use just about any EFR or G-series.
The cost is higher, and the risk is higher since I don't have any good example data to build confidence. So it becomes a bit of a scientific guessing game if that manifold will work well. I will port it to gasket match T4, and also smooth out (port) the runners.
I recently made the choice in turbos, I was always a fan of garret stuff. I'm a Platinum certified garret installer through work, what ever than means. Haha. I went with the Borg. 7163. It has a stronger bearing cartridge. The intergraded Recirculation valve and Wastegate are really nice. makes for an OEM look. Not sure how the police are in you area but in mine they cant tell what's OEM or not. They just say its all illegal and send you away with a vehicle inspect and a handful full of illegitimate tickets.. The Garretts G series are rated at the Crank for max HP. while Borg ratings seem to match Wheel HP, A G25-660 or G30-660 might make 600 whp while a 7670 will make 650.
Another thing different was the compressor maps. Borg is more efficient per rotation than the G-series. While the Garrett advertises a higher overall efficiency, the island is usually very short and narrow, and at a much higher compressor speed.
As for manifold, I have one car on a Cast manifold, The wife's Daily Evo MR, and mine is on a tubular. I have had Zero issues with either in nearly 3 years, Vancouver BC weather, The wife's will crack one day as its stock, and at that time it will get a MAP manifold.
I don't know how I feel about boosting the pump. Wont the extra voltage lower the life cycle of the pump? Would it not be easier less complex, and lighter to go to a larger pump? Walbro "Hellcat: 285 or 295? They move a tone more fuel with not pull that much more electrical draw. See attachments.
Congrats on going Open source, I agree there is a learning curve butt the community is great and it smokes Cobb AP in terms of features.
I have a 2 liter surge tank (see earlier in this thread) and the way I designed it it uses an external inline fuel pump to pull from the bottom of the surge tank. So by design I'm kind of stuck with an external inline pump. I have a walbro 255 for lifting from the main gas tank to the surge pump, which should be fine since it's not pushing against any pressure at all. The 350il pump I am currently using has a custom solid state relay circuit design (has its own thread) that allows it to copy whatever the computer wants to do with the in-tank fuel pump. When you start looking at what other inline pumps are available, they're either complete garbage or super super expensive and complete overkill being brushless and with their own controller. I've done some homework on the boost-a-pump, and apparently it doesn't shorten the life of the pump, or cause any issues. I only need a slight bump at high rpm and high boost. So by going this route I can have 8.5v trolling around, 13.5v once a few pounds of boost is seen (that's how it is now) then 17v when I'm at full tilt and over 20psi. It appears to be the best route based on my current fuel pump & controller design. As for the Borg maps vs Garrett maps; I have studied them and am aware of how TALL and FAT the Borg maps are (vs Garrett) It's a shame precision doesn't have published maps, but with precision there are lots of results to go by.
I am thinking of going either:
Drop in GTX3576R gen 2
OrPrecision 5862 gen 2 with T4 divided ATP manifold
For the EFR I would have to go beyond 7670 for my goals and then your talking HUGE wheels.
As far as the manifold situation, you seem to be very data driven so I would go with what you know. I live in MD my car had 115k on it when I did my build, 80k of that was with the full race mani and it had no issues. If you go with a quality manifold you will be fine. My car is tracked, raced, I will daily it if it’s not 100F out. Unless you plan to go bigger where having the other manifold would be a plus stick with what you have. The other manifold probably isn’t popular because most would go with some companies full turbo kit that 9/10 came with some sort of other tubular style manifold or those silly sidewinder kits.
As far as the turbos I would never recommend Precision, I know it’s said that they’ve gotten a little better recently, but I still remember the past where the turbos would leak oil and just crap out.
So I bought the cast stainless T4 divided manifold. I am not even sure I am going to use it. However the MAP cast stainless V-band manifold is now NOT AVAILABLE. The AMS cast stainless v-band manifold is now NOT AVAILABLE. The cast stainless AGP manifold with v-band is now NOT AVAILABLE. I am seeing a trend here as our cars get father away from production. I THINK that ATP is dumping their old stock of this manifold because I THINK you used to only be able to buy it as part of a kit. I didn't want the option taken off the table. Worst case I sell it one day after it has sat in the garage for a time.
