Thanks. I did some research and it does seem very promising. I would love to get rid of the smell, even with E85 it's smelly, just in a different way.

 

Being that this was my THIRD attempt to clean up the exhaust I did some homework which led me to these guys (G-Sport) in Canada. There is no way around the fact that you cannot pay 100 bucks and get the precious metals needed to actually work. I never came across another vendor that had EPA certification either. Seems like the 850hp rating is real as well given the size of the element.

 

Yes you are right the rare metals are what do the job but pricey. My Apexi Sport Cat I imported from JDM land cost me a small fortune. I still have it....Lol but my RS is gone. https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sa...catalyzer.html
This cat looks good and should flow fairly well just won't compete with a straight pipe. If you race your brother with it the results will be different. Getting rid of the smell and flowing better then a stock cat is what matters. Razor might have some old dyno charts showing the difference on my (IX RS) car. I ran low 12's with a test pipe but only ran the cat briefly on the street....cuz Cali.

 

I just purchased a UHO GESI cat. I'll let you know how it fares with 650whp....

 

Hi @Jaraxle, do you happen to remember what was the voltage on the Pin 1 of the fuel pump relay in "low" and "high" positions?

Thank you in advance.

 

I do not remember 100%, but more importantly I would ask what your trying to do.
I recommend not tapping into the relay fuel pump circuit and instead use a ZENER diode to detect when the tank mounted pump goes to HIGH voltage.
See updated diagram for version 2.0 for dual pump and 2.0 for single big pump diagrams above.

 

I'm using a PWM controler with MAP input to control dual pumps with radium hanger. The controller currently uses a Hobb switch to turn on 2nd pump (but still closed loop PWM), however it can also use a programmable ECU input to do that.
Thus I was wondering what was the voltage of the fuel pump relay pin 1 to use it instead of the Hobb switch to turn on pump 2.

Thanks,
Chris.

 

I noticed a puddle under my front drivers side today leaving work. I poked under there and......coolant !
I dug deeper tonight and the CSF radiator is LEAKING at a weld. Unbelievable...

I still have the OEM one, but not the metal clips that are used for the fan shroud. Ugh...

 

I hope it is true that the OEM radiator is up to the task of high HP (over 500hp). Because I am throwing the OEM radiator back in. While I was in there I did some SST stuff.....added a Greddy housing that has a built in thermostat. So now the mocal liquid/liquid is the only cooler/heater that is in the loop all the time. The other two SST heat exchangers come online when the Greddy housing starts sending fluid that way. This change made my filter switch to a WIX unit for the SST.

This is the nonsense the CSF is claiming on their site:

"CSF warranty is applicable only to the original owner of the vehicle. Original paper work verifying the proof of purchase and pre-installation cooling system checklist signed by the professional installer is required to process warranty claims."

Unbelievable.

 

I’ve had zero water cooling problems on track with the oem radiator. Here is a log of a track session with coolant never going above 190 really. Keep in mind my turbo isn't water cooled.

https://datazap.me/u/razorlab/thunde...=0&data=2-8-18

 

Sounds like a S***ty company to purchase products from. Post pics of failure of product and spread on social media?

 

That's pretty standard stuff for warranty only being available to the original purchaser of the part. Idk what you guys are complaining about.

 

I am not sure why that is bold font. The ridiculous part if you read it, is you need a signed document from a professional installer!

 

I just noticed that AMS is selling them now as part of their engineered products. You wouldn't run this on track would you?

 

I don't see why I wouldn't. The TA cars run with 100cells.